GaryP65 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) This is a 'was just wondering'question. I have seen photos of aftermarket coils used instead of OEM. Is there a certain unit I can use? Do I have to follow a certain specs?I'm just asking incase I want to get a backup for a 1925 12v positive ground Sedan. Edited October 26, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricHoman Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) The original coil on my 1925 went out so we replaced it with modern coil. I just went to the local auto parts store and asked for a standard 12V coil. I don't think it was more than 20$ and it has worked very well for me. Made a bracket for it using a piece of scrap metal that was lying around and used one of the bolts where the engine mounts to the frame. We mounted it close enough to the original coil that we did not even need to lengthen any wires. Edited October 26, 2015 by EricH (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Any coil with an internal resistor will work just fine. I use VW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 I build a exact duplicate 12 volt North East and it is sold exclusively by Meyers Early Dodge Parts. It is a high temp. epoxy filled and same size as original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 So I thought I'd put it to the test. I almost passed an auto parts store, so I picked up one and test it out.No spark. Could be something else up the line. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Did you have spark at the points? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22touring Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) The case of the coil has to be grounded in order to complete the secondary circuit. GaryP65, please pardon my incorrect response. I did not analyze the circuit correctly! Thank you to cahartley for correcting me. Edited October 29, 2015 by 22touring (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricHoman Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I had an issue with getting spark at one point as well and it ended up being the condenser in the distributor. I got a modern replacement from Myers early dodge. Was a pretty easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Does the coil case need to be grounded? I have my aftermarket coil sort of loosely sitting in the spot where the original once lived (with original top removed) and it seems to work O.K. It sounds like I should make an effort to properly ground it. I do plan to eventually get a proper repro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 ^ No it doesn't.The primary and secondary windings are common at one end with the distributor completing the circuit to ground for the primary.The secondary finds ITS ground through the spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Does the coil case need to be grounded? I don't think so. The circuit becomes grounded through the points. One of the reasons I asked if he had spark at the points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Thank you Gents. Nice diagram CAH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) Ok fellow DB'ers,Since I'm not the greatest when I comes to electrical, I had a buddy of mine help me out who is. Turns out all is good on the electric front. I get spark to the points, original coil is good. Car cranks nicely. My foot switch is working.So if I got power, all I need is fuel... Correct?After priming the vacuum tank, I see gas flowing up the tube from my gas can to the tank when I crank. I see gas in the line to the carb. There is NO gas in the upper vacuum line which is good. I'm still getting gas pouring out of the air tube and I'm not cranking too excessively. Maybe but not really Edited October 30, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricHoman Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Did the car run previously? I had the same issue with fuel running out of the carburetor air intake when I couldn't get the car started this spring. I assumed I had a carburetor problem also but it was just the result of cranking. I put in a new coil and condenser and it fired right up. I don't want to doubt what your buddy found with spark but based on my (limited) experience, if your car was previously running but now is not I would be surprised if it is a carburetor issue. Do you get spark all the way to the plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I have no idea. It was found in a barn in upstate NY. It has 60k miles on it. I do not believe it has run in years. Got spark to the plugs.My buddy is good. We had 60's/70's muscle together. I had a few cars, he had an 12 sec street 1971 SS Chevelle. And that was after he took of the blower. Edited October 31, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Now that you have Spark, I would suggest go back to the basic, Pull plugs, check compression, if ok Then set timing to #1 according to manualUse a spray of starting fluid, Try starting, if tries to run, then floods Carburator, Remove Carburator and rebuild, If it starts , then stops with no flooding, trouble shoot vacum tank fuel deliveryIf you have compression, spark at correct time and fuel delivery , it will run, the rest is fine tuning. Jesse Edited November 1, 2015 by 30dodge35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I need adapters for my compression tester. Anyone know the size needed? I don't remember if the manual says the range it's supposed to be in. I had already set the timing as per the manual so I'm confident it's at least good enough the run reasonable well.It's been too many years. I have forgotten so much. Edited October 31, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I took an old spark plug, removed the insulator and welded on a pipe with threads to accept a modern compression gage adapter. I don't remember the actual thread sizes involved. You might be able to find one of the older compression gages that used a tapered rubber tip (a one size fits all). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Unfortunately, I don't have anything to weld with. Not a fan of the rubber tip piece. I feel like it will pop off once I have pressure on it and I live too far for my friends to help. I'm in NJ they are in Brooklyn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) you dont have to weldtake the sparkplug apart then you can screw a reducer and union to your compression testorsuse orginal gasket pull all plugs should have at least 50 PSI per cylinder with max difference of 10%. if low pull plug then squirt oil in cylinder if presurre goes up then rings are wornor you can use a differential compressire tester and listen for the air escapingharbour freight has a inexpensive testerjesse Edited November 1, 2015 by 30dodge35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) I've never taken a plug apart. Isn't the inside smooth? I've seen youtube videos where everyone is brazing or using some sort of permanent bond. What are you threading into? Edited November 1, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) http://youtu.be/rDLTs2HeVxkThis is a 'was just wondering'question. I have seen photos of aftermarket coils used instead of OEM. Is there a certain unit I can use? Do I have to follow a certain specs?I'm just asking incase I want to get a backup for a 1925 12v positive ground Sedan.i have attached a few photosif you have champion com 2 large pluga 7/8 wrench and viceas you see in photo put box end wrench and put in vice clamping on the smaller 13/16 nutright hand thread , turn counterclockwise to unscrewvery tight fine threadsi used a pipe thread bushing reducer in fine thread, i put a expoxy on fitting cause you only get a couple of threads, it would be better to match a bolt with correct threads,then drill and tap,or braze or weld reducer,if you can not accomplish taskPM me and i will send you a loanerhttp://youtu.be/rDLTs2HeVxkJesse Edited November 1, 2015 by 30dodge35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks for the loaner offer but I'm so busy that I'm afraid I won't get it back to you in a reasonable time frame. Lately, I can't seem to find time for much. If I'm lucky, I get an hour at a time for the car. I spend more time on here 'talking' than actually fixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now