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Aftermarket Coil


GaryP65
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The original coil on my 1925 went out so we replaced it with modern coil. I just went to the local auto parts store and asked for a standard 12V coil. I don't think it was more than 20$ and it has worked very well for me. Made a bracket for it using a piece of scrap metal that was lying around and used one of the bolts where the engine mounts to the frame. We mounted it close enough to the original coil that we did not even need to lengthen any wires.

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Edited by EricH (see edit history)
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Does the coil case need to be grounded?  I have my aftermarket coil sort of loosely sitting in the spot where the original once lived (with original top removed) and it seems to work O.K.  It sounds like I should make an effort to properly ground it.  I do plan to eventually get a proper repro.

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Ok fellow DB'ers,

Since I'm not the greatest when I comes to electrical, I had a buddy of mine help me out who is. Turns out all is good on the electric front. I get spark to the points, original coil is good. Car cranks nicely. My foot switch is working.

So if I got power, all I need is fuel... Correct?

After priming the vacuum tank, I see gas flowing up the tube from my gas can to the tank when I crank. I see gas in the line to the carb. There is NO gas in the upper vacuum line which is good.

I'm still getting gas pouring out of the air tube and I'm not cranking too excessively. Maybe but not really :)

Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)
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Did the car run previously? I had the same issue with fuel running out of the carburetor air intake when I couldn't get the car started this spring. I assumed I had a carburetor problem also but it was just the result of cranking. I put in a new coil and condenser and it fired right up.

 

I don't want to doubt what your buddy found with spark but based on my (limited) experience, if your car was previously running but now is not I would be surprised if it is a carburetor issue. Do you get spark all the way to the plugs?

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I have no idea. It was found in a barn in upstate NY. It has 60k miles on it. I do not believe it has run in years. Got spark to the plugs.

My buddy is good. We had 60's/70's muscle together. I had a few cars, he had an 12 sec street 1971 SS Chevelle. And that was after he took of the blower.

Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)
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Now that you have Spark, I would suggest go back to the basic,

Pull plugs, check compression, if ok

Then set timing to #1 according to manual

Use a spray of starting fluid,

Try starting, if tries to run, then floods Carburator,

Remove Carburator and rebuild,

If it starts , then stops with no flooding, trouble shoot vacum tank fuel delivery

If you have compression, spark at correct time and fuel delivery , it will run, the rest is fine tuning.

Jesse

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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I need adapters for my compression tester. Anyone know the size needed? I don't remember if the manual says the range it's supposed to be in.

I had already set the timing as per the manual so I'm confident it's at least good enough the run reasonable well.

It's been too many years. I have forgotten so much.

Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)
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I took an old spark plug, removed the insulator and welded on a pipe with threads to accept a modern compression gage adapter.  I don't remember the actual thread sizes involved.  You might be able to find one of the older compression gages that used a tapered rubber tip (a one size fits all).

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you dont have to weld

take the sparkplug apart

then you can screw a reducer and union to your compression testors

use orginal gasket

pull all plugs

should have at least 50 PSI per cylinder

with max difference of 10%.

if low pull plug then squirt oil in cylinder

if presurre goes up then rings are worn

or you can use a differential compressire tester and listen for the air escaping

harbour freight has a inexpensive tester

jesse

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Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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http://youtu.be/rDLTs2HeVxk

This is a 'was just wondering'question.

I have seen photos of aftermarket coils used instead of OEM. Is there a certain unit I can use? Do I have to follow a certain specs?

I'm just asking incase I want to get a backup for a 1925 12v positive ground Sedan.

i have attached a few photos

if you have champion com 2 large plug

a 7/8 wrench and vice

as you see in photo put box end wrench and put in vice clamping on the smaller 13/16 nut

right hand thread , turn counterclockwise to unscrew

very tight fine threads

i used a pipe thread bushing reducer in fine thread, i put a expoxy on fitting cause you only get a couple of threads,

it would be better to match a bolt with correct threads,then drill and tap,

or braze or weld reducer,

if you can not accomplish task

PM me and i will send you a loaner

http://youtu.be/rDLTs2HeVxk

Jesse

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Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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Thanks for the loaner offer but I'm so busy that I'm afraid I won't get it back to you in a reasonable time frame. Lately, I can't seem to find time for much. If I'm lucky, I get an hour at a time for the car. I spend more time on here 'talking' than actually fixing.

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