1930 Buick Model 30-61 Never-ending Restoration

[DonMicheletti]

I know the '30 and '31 are different, but with the '31 and '32 the drive gear comes off with the generator. I expect the '30 is the same.

[Erndog]

Thanks for the rapid response! I agree. Much of the engine remained the same for several years.

One more question:

Are the valve lifter assemblies (whole part that contains the roller lifter section) removable via the side panel access? Seems like they should be, but not cooperating with reasonable persuasion.

 

[Erndog]

I figured that while I'm waiting to have my hub puller manufactured I should go ahead and swap the head out with one I had in California. The existing head has several cracks in the floor under the rocker shaft. I have never seen cracks in that part of a head before, but figure it can't be good. I have a 29-46S on our ranch in California that I will probably never get around to restoring, so after verifying it uses the exact same head, I crated it up and shipped it to Virginia...about 7 or 8 years ago. While sitting it seemed to have acquired a bit of surface rust that required cleaning up. After that I was lucky enough to have my son visit and put him to good use. I had an old NOS head gasket that I cleaned up to use, even though the old one still looks pretty good...especially considering the current price of same! I haven't bolted it down yet, as I still need to order some new bolts from McMaster-Carr. The originals are 7/16x5 5/32-14, but I think 5 1/4" should be fine.

 

Replacement head in crate

 

In Situ

 

Slightly improved

 

Cleaned and reinstalled valves

 

Recipient Subject

 

My son chasing threads while they are still accessible. (Big son/tiny engine is an optical illusion. Looks like a model of the engine.)

 

Head in place. Now on to the next project!

Edited August 10, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history)

[Erndog]

While I wait for my head bolt thread sealant to arrive, I have decided to tackle the generator/distributor assembly. Since the car ran when I got it 20 years ago, I don't expect any major issues. I will answer them as I find them.

I started by removing the unit from the engine. Today's project was the distributor. I did a total disassembly, clean-up, and reassembly.

Lots of neglect over the years

 

The points still look good and only required a little refacing with crocus cloth.

 

Weights were also in fine shape.

 

I cleaned up everything as best I could.

And then reassembled.

 

 

I forgot to clean up the gear. I'll be sure to do that before I reinstall it.

 

Looks a lot prettier in person. Close-ups are so cruel.

 

Next, I shall tackle the generator.

 

I have also finished cleaning and repainting the engine block, inspected and cleaned up all the push-rod assemblies, reinstalled them, and repainted the valve cover and spark plug cover. Photos to follow after I get the head torqued and rockers on. Next part on engine after the generator and valve train will be dropping the pan. I suspect I will not like what I find. That is because when I was redoing the left side of the engine I tried to remove the Y-fitting for the oil line. After several turns with no progress I researched a little and then remembered that there is an oil line in the sump that is connected to it. I have a terrible feeling that I will find I have twisted that oil line all to hell. Wish me luck.

 

[Erndog]

While reinstalling the rocker shaft I noticed the nuts seem to be some type of jam nuts. I tried to verify with the parts book, but no mention of them. Seems redundant since all of the nuts and bolts involved use lock washers. Good place to mention that I am using new lockwashers everywhere. I was cleaning and reusing the old ones to be authentic, but I would rather have something I know will be helpful. I am keeping all the old washers for posterity. They have weird reeded edges.

 

[Erndog]

I got the generator cleaned up and ready to go. Bought a new cap and rotor from RockAuto. They will do fine for the time being. Also had to remove the rocker shaft again and all the pushrods. That's because I decided the block really needs to be painted in that area. Minor setback. I have painted the exhaust manifold heat-proof silver, which is better than the 90 year old shade of rust, but am wondering if it should be black, like the 1929 judging criteria states.

 

 

Before

 

 

After (camera angle makes for a pretty robust distributor!)

 

 

Edited September 1, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history)

[Erndog]

I finally rejuvenated the valve train area and got everything there reinstalled. Looks happier, I think. After I make a couple cork gaskets I will put those side panels back on. Should be ready for the re-installation of the generator/distributor and the water pump, too. Next stop, oil pan territory.

 

Before

 

After

[Erndog]

I need a little advice, please. I am trying to remove the oil pan. I have 24 bolts out and believe there are two more at the rear, accessible only by removing the little sheet metal access panel. I have removed the four bolts that hold it on, but it won't come off. What am I doing wrong or not doing that I should be?

[dibarlaw]

It should be able to be pried off as on my 1925 there are felt seals that typically get stuck. Then you can get to the last 2 nuts holding the pan on near the rear main.

[Erndog]

Thanks, dibarlaw!

That was the issue. For anyone else out there wondering why they can't get that thin plate off, it is merely stuck, due to time, gook on the felt, and in my case being pinched due to the front of the pan hanging low.

 

Pan helping to maintain stuckness of plate.

 

Plate after removal. Note the riveted strip of felt. I have seen comments about whether or not it is riveted, so there you go.

 

By the way, those last rear-most bolts have slotted heads for mechanics without long ratchet extensions.

 

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history)

[Erndog]

Well, it's a little bit better.

Can anyone tell me what type of gasket material is used for the pan? I assumed it was 1/8" cork, but the old stuff looks like regular gasket material. I know the end seals are cork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history)

[38Buick 80C]

i used cork as I recall. a felpro set.

[Erndog]

So, I haven't done much lately because we have been moving for the first time in 28 years. LOTS of accumulation to deal with, I had a friend help me pull Buick items down out of the garage overhead in preps for moving them. I laid them out on the garage floor since the chassis had already been transported and I now had room to do that. A day or two later I was loading things in a POD. I went to move some old mohair material on the floor that I kept as a reference, and heard a sickening crunch. As soon as I realized what I had done I about puked and I am sure people for milwes heard my best sailor jargon at the very top of my vocal ability. Many minutes later, as the echos of my tirade faded, I gathered myself and considered breaking down into a quivering crying mess. However, life goes on, so I'll save it for another day. 

The crunch came from my original, very intact (previously), Buick Script headlight bar.

[keiser31]

OH MAN!

[Erndog]

I have a lot of updating to do, but for right now, I have a question.

Technical question:

I am restoring the front wheels on my 1930 Buick Model 61. There are some unique roller bearings used on the servo mechanism. My question is should these be greased or not. There is no routing to get grease to them from the grease fittings, and I don't see any prevention for warm grease to leak into the brake drum area. However, I am hesitant to reassemble them "dry".

Thoughts/advice?

[32buick67]

I recommend to go with your gut and to yes lube them with at least 90w oil, or a firm wheel bearing grease when installing.

I looked, and I am surprised I couldn't find anything in the 29-33 Buick manuals about lube for these sector roller bearings, although maybe I missed it.

There aren't any brass yellow metal surfaces in the design, so you can probably choose what lube you prefer.

Those New Departure sector roller bearings were used on multiple years, and I used a simple lube approach on my 32 Buick which is very similar to your 30 Buick design.

Bottom line is that these bearings rotate so very little and have such a small radial load vs the design performance capability such that my opinion is that they would far outlast the life of the car even if they didn't have any lube at all, or had something light like WD-40 to skim coat the surfaces for anti-rust.

 

I would use 90w transmission oil.

 

[Erndog]

So, I guess the next thing I did was to tackle the steering column. Specifically, the control gears at the bottom. They were fairly trashed, with the usual broken teeth, etc. I will go through the worm sector later and also replace the leaking seal. For the time being, I just wanted to get the gear issue behind me. As it turns out, I will probably need to redo the job, as the advance/retard arm doesn't want to cooperate very well. The arm would rather flop around than push properly. I think the little gears also skipped a tooth or two, as well.

 

BEFORE

 

 

 

AFTER

 

 

[Erndog]

 My next stop on the chassis restoration tour was the front wheels/brakes. They had seen an awful lot of dirty travel, evidently. Upon removal of the brake drums, I found that the felt seals had lost their effectiveness sometime long before I acquired the car. The grease had made its way pretty much everywhere. I cleaned everything up and was surprised and relieved to see that there is a substantial amount of lining left on the brakes. I am pretty sure they are clean enough now to work, as well. Of course, down the road I will get them all relined, if I ever get this thing on the road. I also found the wheel bearings to be in excellent condition. For the time being, I replaced the seals with the felt type, as original. If I ever finish the car, I will probably upgrade to the newer metal/rubber seals.

 

 

 

Left Wheel

 

 

Right Wheel

 

 

Right Front Brake Universal Joint Yoke Assembly

 

 

Bearing In Situ

 

Brake Operating Lever Spring

 

 

 

Kerplunk!

 

I must say here that it was a bit of a Pain in the Ass to get the back plates off. Primarily because of the caked on dirt and the inability to remove the steering arms (which I desperately wanted to, but gave up).

 

As Found

 

 

Operating Cam

 

 

 

Brake Operating Lever and Linkage

 

 

What I had to work with:

 

Edited August 16, 2023 by Erndog (see edit history)

[Erndog]

I had some better detailed "After" photos somewhere, but can't locate them right now.

So, here's how the front wheels ended up. I was rather surprised at the small roller bearings, but pleasingly. I greased them up well prior to reassembly. Sorry about the paint colors, but it won't be visible when completed. (wait till you see the rear wheels!) If I find the other photos, I will post them as well. Can never have too many photos. 😁

 

Back Plate

 

 

Service Brake Cam Assembly

 

 

Roller Bearing

 

 

Left Brakes Assembled

 

 

Right Brakes Assembled

 

 

Service Brake Cam Arrangement

 

 

 

 

Right Assembly Backside

 

Right

 

 

Left

 

 

Front View

 

 

I do have new boots to put on the Operating shafts, but that will have to be later.

 

 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Looking great. Keep up the good work. Mike

[Erndog]

1 hour ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:

Looking great. Keep up the good work. Mike

Thanks! I'm trying.

[Erndog]

This is the patented special road bump eliminator unit. I had wanted to go through this one for a very long time.

 

Before Pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 16, 2023 by Erndog (see edit history)

[Erndog]

I have been tackling the rear wheels lately. I have the driver's side about ready to reassemble. While cleaning up the bolts. I noticed something unusual (to me). The bolts that attach the Rear Brake Disc (back plate) to the Rear Brake Spider (axle housing) have a spiral groove in them (see photo). These are Special Bolt, Part# 222065; Group# 5.335 in the parts book.

Can anyone explain the function/need for this design to me? Normally, I would assume the groove is to provide a lubrication path for something, but these bolts are solely fasteners and nothing passes by them.

 

               

[Erndog]

I have just about finished with the rear axle. Both sets of brakes and associated paraphernalia have been restored, and the left wheel reinstalled. I am in the process of cleaning up the right drum and have removed the bearing and other guts. However, the outer race for the Hyatt roller bearing and captured flat ring are quite stuck. The race for the other wheel basically fell out. I have tried using a slide hammer to remove the race, but did not overdo it. My question is do you think it is safe to apply a good amount of heat to try to free it up? I believe it should handle the heat just fine, but want to be sure.