Fitting 4 cylinder oil pan - TOP TIP

[R.White]

The thorny subject of how best to get the oil level indicator pin through the small hole in the block while offering up the oil pan has been discussed before but I have hit on an idea that makes the whole business a doddle.

 

If like me you find yourself trying to fit the oil pan on your own then I suggest placing a magnet against the block close to the hole.  When you pass the rod up through it's guide in the block, it will attach itself to the magnet first time. Saves fiddling about with taping on wire etc.

 

I don't claim any special credit for this solution as it must have been thought of many times before but if it saves anyone from struggling (especially when they have no one to grab hold of the little critter as soon as it appears into the daylight) then I will have done my good deed for the day. 

 

Ray.

[zeke01]

Would it be possible to use a much longer rod and cut it to size after the pan is bolted on? Zeke

[R.White]

 

Would it be possible to use a much longer rod and cut it to size after the pan is bolted on? Zeke

 

I suppose you could go to the trouble of removing the constant oil level pocket trough to get to the float and affix another rod, then refit it all again but my suggestion is intended to save time.  

 

I can't tell you how well this works.  The magnet holds itself to the block and stays put whilst holding the rod in place while you bolt up the pan.  I would also suggest getting under the car so that you can use your right hand to grapple with the rod.  If you wish, you could use forceps but I found I could guide the rod using my right hand. A carefully positioned lamp helps.

[Machinist_Bill]

Your tip is well noted Ray and will keep that in my "How To's" directory.

[cahartley]

I soldered on a THIN wire to pull it through.......nothing to it.......

[R.White]

I soldered on a THIN wire to pull it through.......nothing to it.......

 

,,,but next time you will probably just use a little magnet 

[Pete K.]

Ray, They very well could've done it that way at the factory. I think it's a great idea, thanks.

[nearchoclatetown]

I would think they just used the cap that SHOULD be on all cars but are always missing. The early caps threaded on and the later ones crimped on. Looks like a little rivet.

[R.White]

I would think they just used the cap that SHOULD be on all cars but are always missing. The early caps threaded on and the later ones crimped on. Looks like a little rivet.

 

Sorry, I don't follow your thinking.  A cap would not help in fitting of the pan.

 

If you are working on the car; laying on your back, trying to refit with the pan while at the same time feeding the oil level rod up through the hole in the block, even the workshop manual says to get someone else to grasp the rod as it appears, because it is physically impossible to let go of the rod and not have it fall back into the pan regardless of how close the pan mating surfaces are unless you have VERY thin hands!

 

Ray

 

[cahartley]

The first time I had to go through this I did it alone....... 

There is virtually no more than an inch of space through which to guide the rod through the block.

Luckily I have a hemostat which I wound up using to hold the rod as high as possible to get that sucker through and it still wasn't easy....... 

You must have used a very strong magnet?

[R.White]

The first time I had to go through this I did it alone....... 

There is virtually no more than an inch of space through which to guide the rod through the block.

Luckily I have a hemostat which I wound up using to hold the rod as high as possible to get that sucker through and it still wasn't easy....... 

You must have used a very strong magnet?

I have a good number of small magnets which are quite powerful for their size (1 3/4" x 1/4" x 1/8") I seem to remember they came out of some telecoms equipment?

 

If you want some, I can send a few f.o.c. 

 

Ray.

[nearchoclatetown]

Sorry, I don't follow your thinking.  A cap would not help in fitting of the pan.

 

If you are working on the car; laying on your back,  

 

Ray   Most would use a jack to hold the pan leaving both hands free. The early cap I spoke of threads onto the rod after pushed it up through the hole. The later cap crimps on the rod, no threads. Unfortunately they are laying along the road somewhere because few exist. They both look like a brake shoe rivet, small cylinder with a flat head on top. If look in the parts books or Books of Information you can see pictures of them, there is a separate part number as I remember. A vice grip or C clamp would hold the rod too, no big deal. 

Edited June 29, 2015 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)

[R.White]

 

Sorry, I don't follow your thinking.  A cap would not help in fitting of the pan.

 

If you are working on the car; laying on your back,  

 

Ray   Most would use a jack to hold the pan leaving both hands free. The early cap I spoke of threads onto the rod after pushed it up through the hole. The later cap crimps on the rod, no threads. Unfortunately they are laying along the road somewhere because few exist. They both look like a brake shoe rivet, small cylinder with a flat head on top. If look in the parts books or Books of Information you can see pictures of them, there is a separate part number as I remember. A vice grip or C clamp would hold the rod too, no big deal. 

If you look at the book of information it advises having someone grasp the rod from above but using a magnet close to the hole is both quick and simple and you don't need a helper.  I realise everyone has their preferred way of doing things and I respect that.

 

I tried using a jack to present the pan to the engine but I found there were a couple of things to be considered.  First, I had to get the pan to sit level.  I did this by making a basic 'cradle' being 1 1/2" higher on one side to sit on the jack.  Second, the pin is located between cylinders 2 and 3 (although as Rogillio has pointed out, this position can vary from one engine to another). Whilst  I  can see how using this technique would work for an earlier car, on mine, being a 1926 2 unit car, the carb is different in that it has the float chamber on the left.  This prevents one from reaching the rod while feeding it through the hole at the same time.

 

 It would, of course be a very simple matter to remove the carb - only a fuel line and two bolts - but I decided to use a magnet as a third hand.  I also decided that without the jack in the way it was possible to to see what was happening to the oil line on the other side and also one is able to "feel" the oil pump into its locating hole.

 

The cap on the rod would need to be removed whenever the pan was removed and as the rod remains accessible once the pan is on - even when empty of oil -  it seems to serve no practical purpose as far as I can see.  

 

Ray.

 

Edited June 30, 2015 by R.White (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

Good idea Ray.  I will write that one down.