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Difficulty removing Delco Combination Switch. 1926 Buick


AzBob

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Trying to remove the Delco combination switch on my 1926 Standard Coupe. It appears that the switch housing has expanded over the years and will not slide out of the hole in the dash. I have it about half way out and it is stuck pretty tight.

Has anyone else encountered this problem and if you did, How did you end up removing the switch?

Edited by AzBob (see edit history)
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Trying to remove the Delco combination switch on my 1926 Standard Coupe. It appears that the switch housing has expanded over the years and will not slide out of the hole in the dash. I have it about half way out and it is stuck pretty tight.

Has anyone else encountered this problem and if you did, How did you end up removing the switch?

you would have thought the timber wood have shrunk over the years that would have made it easier to remove - that whole piece seems pretty fragile so I'd be reluctant to use any sort of force on it and the correct round ones very very rarely seem to come up for sale

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I had to use a strip of abrasive cloth and work over it like a polishing cloth when shinning shoes. Does any one remember shining shoes? I did get mine out in mostly one piece. I used the repro from "BOB's" as a replacement which is a bit smaller. They probably just made a mold from an original without building it up to allow for shrinkage. All rebuilt with new switches it works great. I believe I have some old posts describing what I had done. Or can repost my photos.

Larry

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Combination switch removed in one piece!:)

As per Larry's suggestion, used 60 grit sandpaper and a ton of Elbow Grease. Took over 1.5 hours of sanding and gingerly working the switch and noting the marks on the housing all this while working upside down in not the most comfortable position. The expansion was found to be mostly in the horizontal plane as can be seen in the photos.

The switch had to come out for rebuilding and rewiring.

Larry, I found your previous post on the combination switch with photo's. Thanks!

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Bob:

The contact problem was a bit touchy as it was burned on the ignition side. So I had to make new contact pins. I filled in the burned micarta spots with super glue.

The new switch levers from "BOB's" fit very sloppy in the bores and I made some bushings for a smoother fit /operation.

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The issue is that the Die-Cast contains lead which corrodes and swells over time. I have seen these switches swell until they lock the levers so tight that they won't move and break the steel ring that retains some of them into position. Bobs can rebuild them as long as you have the internal springs and contacts and a "useable" back contact plate like Larry's above or better.

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Larry, thanks for posting photos of the micarta contact plate. New contact pins nicely done! I'm thinking new levers from "BOB's" as well. Will be prepared to make bushings if necessary.

Leif, thanks for the dremel suggestion, One could possibly use it in addition to manual sanding. As near as I can ascertain, removal of approximately 1/64" of material was necessary in order for the switch to pass through the 3.031" diameter hole in the dash.

Thanks all for the suggestions and information that led to the successful removal of a stubborn 1926 Delco combination switch.

Edited by AzBob (see edit history)
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For those interested, I was able to take a precise measurement of the combination switch hole in the dash and the maximum diameter of the switch housing to enable sliding through the hole without binding.

Hole in dash diameter = 3.031" (76.98mm)

Maximum switch diameter = 3.025" (76.84mm)

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