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HEAD BOLT COOLANT LEAK


edhd58
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I have a newly rebuilt 42 Ford 226 G 6cyliner. It has about an hour run time on it when I have started noticing coolant seeping up around the 5 or so head bolts that are down the very center of the head. All are torqued (severala times over) to 70 ft/lbs. The end of the bolts in the head were Locktited, the end coming throught the head had nothing done to them. My question is should I pull the head and and bolts and redo it all with tread sealant, or pull the head and seal the threads and replace the head gasket too, or lastly just remove the head bolt nuts put thread sealant on them and retorque everything?? here is a video of the motor.

http://youtu.be/B-RA7N7YXJo

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On the Ford flathead V8's it is a common practice to dip the end of the studs in aviation gasket sealant before they are screwed into the block and that usually stops any leaks.

That said, it is also common for the studs to leak after the heads has been removed and replaced and the usual thing to do is to leave them alone for a week or two and after the engine has been cycled a few times they will normally self seal. If you have any that still keep leaking, one way to fix it is to remove the nut and washer, squirt some gasket silicone goo around the stud and put the nut and washer back on. When the silicone sets it will block the leak off.

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If the head bolts go into the water jacket they will leak if sealer is not used. You can remove the bolts or studs ONE AT A TIME and apply sealer. Do not remove the next bolt until the first one is back in place and torqued. You will want to check and retorque after a week or 2 of driving.

You should not use Loctite on head bolts unless you mean some type of Loctite sealer, not the thread locking compound.

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I used Loc-tite thread lock on the head bolts in the block. Should I just pull them all out and start all over??

If you can. You shouldn't use Loctite on head bolts but should use some Permatex #2 or other water proof sealer.

You will also want to clean the bolt threads thoroughly and chase the threads in the block.

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I know all this now. The issue is now do i tear it down and redo them all or just do teh bolts where they come through the head. several posts say the issue wil normally resolve itself in a very short time. if it does great, if not i will tear it down. Oh well live and learn. I'll be able to run it a good bit before i start putting the body back on so i'll have plenty of time to see if it solves itself.

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It should seal up after some time by itself. I have been there and seen that.

A couple years ago I had a Chrysler 300 Hemi complete rebuild that was on it's 1st start up and two of the valve cover studs were weeping coolant.

I used Subabru Cooling System Conditioner-a tiny tiny bottle 4 oz's.. Five minutes later the weeping stopped. Has never leaked since.

I would never use the auto parts stores leak fixers! They will plug up rads and heater cores IMO.

post-62228-143142933033_thumb.jpg

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Okay, couple things to note here. I have some black pipe thread sealant. 2 days ago I pulled the nuts off the bolts that were seeping and very well sealed them. Since that day it has sat. Today it was started and let run about 45 minutes. I thought i had a 180 degree thermostat but it only comes up to 160, BUT no leaks. So i guess I will run it again tomorrow, check the torque on the nuts again and go from there.

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