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Convertible rubber fender pads


KDirk

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Was wondering if anyone had replaced the two thin protective rubber pads (this is on a convertible) on top of the rear fenders just reward of the latch side of the doors. I ask because mine are a bit torn up and since I will be repainting, it would be nice to replace them after the paint is done.

These are less than 1/8" thick black rubber put right over the paint with some sort of permanent adhesive. Any suggestions on where to find suitable sheet rubber and what kind of adhesive to use?

KDirk

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Guest WEB 38

I Used tractor tire patches from TSC. cut to size and permanent spray adhesive. Looks very original. Bill

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Interesting discussion in that thread from 2011. I clearly missed that one as I had no convertible at the time. Guess I will go looking.

I like Bill's suggestion but worry about discoloration to the paint from using tire rubber. Sign vinyl is much too thin for this application.

Rhino lining would work but is such a small area I doubt they'd shoot it. Plus, it has a rough surface texture.

I guess I need to think about protecting the tonneau cover after repainting as well. Maybe some clear pinball playfield Mylar would work there. Cutting it perfectly would be tough.

KDirk

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Interesting discussion in that thread from 2011. I clearly missed that one as I had no convertible at the time. Guess I will go looking.

I like Bill's suggestion but worry about discoloration to the paint from using tire rubber. Sign vinyl is much too thin for this application.

Rhino lining would work but is such a small area I doubt they'd shoot it. Plus, it has a rough surface texture.

I guess I need to think about protecting the tonneau cover after repainting as well. Maybe some clear pinball playfield Mylar would work there. Cutting it perfectly would be tough.

I was particularly interested in tempest6cyls recollection that the reason the black tape was there was because of the foamy latex seal material used in the top stack seals , and being concerned it would discolor the paint.

What about this 3M product: http://3mcollision.com/products/decorative-reflective-film-tape/paint-protection-film/3m-scotchcal-paint-protection-film-roll-84706.html

It is clear, so would give a cleaner look than black. It is also 12 mil thick so would offer good protection. Problem is that you have to buy 20 yards of it. Though I guess if you have an "in" with a shop that carries it, they could give/sell you a smaller piece.

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I thought about something in clear, but have two concerns. First, it deviates from factory look. While I have no issue making some changes (wheels for instance) I also tend to prefer keeping things mostly stock.

Second is most clear films are rigid, not soft like rubber. Rubber pads in these locations help absorb the abrasion that takes place from the top stack frame. Clear plastic would get scuffed and look like hell in short order and would need to be polished to prevent it from looking shabby. Kind of defeats the purpose even if it protects the paint underneath.

I am considering some means of protectiong the tonneau cover paint where the 5th bow meets. Problem is finding something that doesn't ruin the nice clean appearance of the panel with the top down. Some compromise will be required there.

KDirk

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Ronnie,

I just finished washing the 'vert and it occurred to me that I could take matching sierra grain beechwood vinyl and make an extension piece that would cover the tonneau cover back past the two hold downs with the same curved contour as the 5th bow. Not sure how I'd secure it unless with VHB or similar adhesive tape. Certainly not by any type of screws into the sheetmetal.

I'm not sure why they didn't do that to start really. Having the portion that the 5th bow contacts painted was not the best idea for wear and tear. Running the interior vinyl back that far would've looked ok and made more sense IMHO as it would have extended to the inside of the rear roof line with the top up. Eventually that would wear too, though. So, take your pick: repaint or reupholster.

Of course, keeping the 5th bow weather strip clean and free of gritty dirt would go a long way to prevent such wear. But, who wants to wipe off the weather strip every time they put the roof up?

KDirk

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Bill,

Seems no matter what the weather strip is made of, it picks up contaminants (dust, grit, whatever) and this ends up rubbing on the clear coat on the tonneau cover and causing abrasions. He only ways to deal with this is to religously clean the weather strip or protect the paint. So, my search for a solution.

KDirk

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Guest WEB 38

If the top is adjusted right and fits tight wouldn't that keep any rubbing to a minimum. and just wipe the area when putting the top up or down with protective wipes. Bill

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Does somebody have a picture of these rubber pads? My car has a couple of black (looks like paint) areas on the tonneau that have worn and I'm pretty sure it is original. Is that what we are discussing?

It is the black 'tape' between the door pillar and the front of the tonneau cover.

post-63601-143142523437_thumb.jpg

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There are 2 different items being discussed.

(1) the black tape located between the top of the door and the tonneau opening is one. I just purchased some satin black vinyl from a sign shop for another project. It could be thicker but would work. I always thought it was there because some tops mechanism has enough flex that it might hit the paint. I have seen Reatta convertibles with this tape scratched by the top mechanism (opening and closing the top) I have not heard that many owner say they need the part, a pattern could be made and hand cut. if there is really a need, someone could have a Steel Rule Die made and it would make both sides (just flip the material)

(2) The second part is to protect the tonneau from scratches made by the #5 bow. If you read one of the old post, I have some of these made. I noticed you could buy them for Corvettes so I found the company making them (they were in Little Rock) after trying to get a pattern made, I finally sent them a heavy paper pattern. They made a sample which I tweeked and then they make me 20 clear and 20 black parts using static cling plastic. Nothing fancy about the part. You clean the tonneau, lay down the static cling material, wipe out the rinkles, and raise the top. When the 5th bow moves it wipes against the plastic and not the paint. When you put the top down, you lift off the plastic and throw it in the trunk......tonneau is spotless.

I sold all that it had and went back to the company to get more. This was at least 4 year ago, they had sold off that business to someone and I got their info and after many calls finally talked to them. It appears to be a husband/wife business and they seemed totally disorganized. They were going to look for the pattern that makes the Reatta part and call me. No calls, so I called them....they could not find the die. I finally gave up.

This part would be a good project for someone. First you make a pattern. It is a lazy C curve, with cut-outs that fit around the black latch assemblies. This also helps locate it when it is installed. You make the end 1-2 inches longer than the tonneau and let those end fall into the opening. Once you have a good pattern, transfer the pattern to some rigid material like Masonite or thin plywood. Fabric store carry clear vinyl in rolls 54" wide and sell it by the yard. Most fabric stores have several thickness available. The vinyl should have enough static cling to work. You need a flat cutting table. Lay out the vinyl, somehow hold the pattern so you can cut around it with a sharp knife or fabric roller.

Once you have a pattern made, you can probably make a part in a couple of minutes.

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Guest my3buicks

I always looked at it as cosmetic so there wasn't an instant break in the black at the door.

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Dave, when I come up with a good solution to this, I'll let you know. Right now I'm looking at rubber membrane and gasket material (as used in shower pans and roofing) material as a possibility. It needs to be thick enough to be useful in protecting the paint but thin enough to conform to the curvature of the fender and under the tonneau cover with no ripples or kinks.

Other problem is the adhesive. I'm thinking a pressure sensitive pad type adhesive would be that way to go so as to not screw up the paint underneath too badly. Liquid adhesives like 3M weatherstrip glue would work here but are non-removable without paint damage should the need arise.

KDirk

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