New Classic 1990 Reatta Owner

[Guest Beck]

[Guest Beck]

Center Armrest color is off. Anyone got an original Tan in good shape?

I hate the steering wheel. I will be on the look out for a non airbag version, earlier year?

[wws944]

The "TEST" button just lights up all the bulbs on the IPC.

The real test mode: Over on the HVAC controls, with key ON (engine does not have to be running), simultaneously press and hold "OFF" and the "^" side of the "TEMP" rocker. Hold them in a few seconds until the IPC blanks out. After another couple of seconds you will start seeing diagnostic codes where the odometer used to be. Copy these down on a piece of paper. It will cycle through the ECM (engine computer), BCM (body computer), IPC, and SIR (air bag) systems. Best case is "no codes" for each. If you do get codes, some will have a "h" suffix indicating a history code.

You can look up any codes in the FSM, or at Ronnies site.

[Guest Beck]

I also noticed the steering wheel when its in its upper position in the tilt it has downward flex? does that make sense?

[wws944]

Center Armrest color is off. Anyone got an original Tan in good shape?

I hate the steering wheel. I will be on the look out for a non airbag version, earlier year?

The steering wheel is either not original, or someone removed the leather wrapping. It should be the same color as the rest of the interior.

Looks like the armrest came from a Riviera. Does it have a cup holder in the front of it?

[Guest Beck]

First thing in the morning I will get my not pad out and do what you said. thanks

[Guest Beck]

No, the armrest is my fault I let the car dealer send it out to his upholsterer. Its better than it was. It was all dry rotted and deteriorated and torn shreds. I think the guy that detailed the inside may have removed it, maybe he soaked it to wet with armor-all.

[Guest Beck]

the steering wheel leather wrap must have been removed by the "detailer guy", I suspect he got it soaked with armor-all and had to remove it in fear of me losing control of the steering wheel.

[DAVES89]

If steering wheel and arm rest issues are all you end up with as a new owner you will have done really well. Looks like a very nice car. Good for you.

[Guest Beck]

Yeaaaaahh I know how to pick 'em. heh. thanks Dave, Im sure those aren't the only issues.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Questions if you all don't mind. Ok, is the 'Security" light suppose to be flashing all the time when the car is off?

Yes if the door is open and it hasn't beem set by locking a door.

One of the test lights states "Electrical Problem" now that's pretty vague do those lights always come on when the test button is pushed or is it actually telling me I have an electrical problem?

It means there is a comm problem between the computers. It will come on when test button is pushed along with the others so you're OK there. Noticed it's not on in photo with engine running. Let us know if it is on all the time.

A total of 6 lights come on in the test mode is that normal, good, bad?

Believe that is correct. The Airbag light (SRS) does not come on in test mode supposedly.

Also Ive got no speedometer or tachometer.

You have a 0 in digital window Does that not display speed when your driving? The display mode is switchable between the analog gauge, the digital display, or both. That's what the speed selector switch at the lower right does. Can also change from KPH to MPH with another switch if your so inclined.

Now no tachometer may be a real problem. Need to pull trouble codes out of diagnostics and report back in a new thread so we can help you troubleshoot this.

Ive been told the instrument panel has been replaced.

There are a few odds and ends inside the cabin that need attention like the bottom of the door panel carpet patch needs to be

re-glued, the center armrest needs to be re-attached, the center console seems as if it is separating or spreading apart.

.

[KDirk]

Beck,

The steering wheel can be replaced with an 88/89 style in tan (luckily all years had the same color tan interior) but you will no longer have an airbag, if that matters to you.

You will need to install a shunting resistor across the airbag harness to prevent the "inflatable restraint" indicator light from staying on all the time. There are previous posts here on the subject.

Overall, it appears you did quite well with this car. I do have concern over the red jumper wire visible in the relay center picture. That is not factory equipment and looks like somebodies quick and dirty solution to something.

KDirk

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]247940[/ATTACH]

This is the Teves II electrical anti-lock brake system. Learn how to maintain and troubleshoot it and it will serve you well. Ignore it and you will join the ranks of those who curse it.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]247941[/ATTACH]

If I am interpreting this correctly, your missing relay "G" in the underhood relay center, and someone jumpered the contacts to turn both fans on low speed all the time. They must have done other things as well as you couldn't turn them off with the ignition key. You will have to report if they run after the key is turned off, but then turn off some time later when the radiator cools down some. I expect he installed a thermostatic switch to turn the fans on instead of having the ECM turn them on and off as programmed. I also expect that this arrangement will cause you to get an E026 QDM trouble code when you go into diagnostics. Will have to wait and see what you discover. As long as they are running somewhat this isn't a big issue, and if done well, may be a blessing.

[Machiner 55]

Believe that is correct. The Airbag light (SRS) does not come on in test mode supposedly.

This is true. Recently swapped out a '90 IPC to check functionality. Found that the supposed non-functioning SIR lamp was working when Ign. key first turned to on but wouldn't show when test button pushed. Put known working IPC back in and found the same condition. Odd that test button doesn't trigger SIR lamp. Hadn't noticed that before but assume it's always been that way.

John F.

[Guest Beck]

Good Stuff, as I suspected you guys know your stuff. Not unlike my friends over at Biturbo Zentrum. I will run the diagnostic this morning and see the real problems. Hopefully they wont be too many. Question, My headlights seem to close rather hard almost like they slam closed is that the way they operate or am I missing some sort of cushion or maybe they are closing to fast?

Thank you gentlemen.

[Guest Beck]

I have a couple of E. Nardi wooden Steering wheels but not sure how to adapt them if even possible. Any insight on the matter?

[Guest Beck]

How are you guys insuring your cars? Do any of you have classic car insurance? Are there limits to how many miles you can put on a car with classic Insurance? Ive always wondered about it but have never looked into it.

[Ronnie]

Here is a thread I started about classic car insurance that might be helpful to you:

[h=3]Anyone here had experience with Hagerty Insurance?[/h]

[Guest Beck]

codes

b334c

b552h

b671c

b672c

025h

026h

033h

034h

061h

ec2 or ec?

[ol' yeller]

I have Hagerty on my Reatta. I have been a Hagerty customer for probably over 15 years. The thread referral is a good one and answers most questions. I did have one claim for a windshield on a different classic car which was handled quickly and easily. You do need a garage, a commuter car for each driver, and a "soft" recommendation to keep mileage under 2,500 per year. My vert is insured for $12,000 and it costs me about $450 per year. There is no deductible.

[Guest Beck]

Unfortunately my garage has an '85 Biturbo in it already. Im starting to pile up these classic cars. My wife is very supportive but I don't want to push my luck so the Reatta is going to have to stay in the driveway for now.

[Guest Beck]

I managed to round up the the code clearing procedure and am going in. If you don't hear from me in 24 hours send a search party.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Good Stuff, as I suspected you guys know your stuff. Not unlike my friends over at Biturbo Zentrum. I will run the diagnostic this morning and see the real problems. Hopefully they wont be too many. Question, My headlights seem to close rather hard almost like they slam closed is that the way they operate or am I missing some sort of cushion or maybe they are closing to fast?

Thank you gentlemen.

The #1 problem on a Reatta. You need new pellets in your headlight motor gears. Need to check the condition of the link arms too and get the proper kit to R&R them. Lots of vendors and choices available.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

I have a couple of E. Nardi wooden Steering wheels but not sure how to adapt them if even possible. Any insight on the matter?

These should be a piece of cake to install and look good too. Just get the proper adapter for a GM vehicle of the era (if needed), take out the airbag parts, jump a resistor to turn off the warning light, borrow a tool from your FLAPS and go at it.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

c is current, h is history.

Clear all and see what comes back

codes

b334c

AC clutch or cruise data loss from ECM

b552h

BCM memory loss. Probably from battery R&R ignore as history

b671c

Cruise control servo issue

b672c

Cruise control vent servo issue. Looks like a new servo is in your future if you use CC

025h

MAT sensor temp high ignore if it doesn't come back

026h

QDM fault can be multiple things but that missing relay under the hood is probably the reason for this one.

033h

This one is a misprint or a mystery. Not a standard #. See if it comes back

034h

MAF sensor voltage low. ignore and see if it comes back

061h

Another misread or mystery. Not a valid ECM code # in an 1990, but it is a # in a 1991. It is the cruise servo vent control problem again.

ec2 or ec?

You need to pull up ECM Data ED99 and read and report the PROM ID # to verify you have the proper PROM for your car.

[Guest Corvanti]

re: the armrest/center console color - i think the color code is on the trunk sticker - i know the exterior color code is there - someone can confirm this. if all else fails, go to a "auto paint supply" store. they can match the color. i used "SEM Color Coat" flexible coating on my '80 Corvette with good results. in fact the "rattle can" i still have looks darn close. it's SEM #15093, Light Buckskin, but i wouldn't go with it just by looking a 'puter pic.

i don't see why it wouldn't work on the steering wheel. i also used Duplicolor "adhesion promotor" rattle can for a primer. should be available at your "flaps".

for those with a limited budget (like me), this may be a way to get her looking better while tackling more "serious" problems.

p.s. - you might want to check Summit or Jegs for a adapter kit for the steering wheel, if you choose that path...

[Guest Beck]

The odd or misprint #s may be a result of the instrument panel being replaced? Does a 91 instrument panel work in a 90 model? Im not even sure this care came equipped with Cruise.

[DAVES89]

The 1990 and 1991 clusters are the same. As a matter of fact the 1990-1993 Rivieras use the same cluster.

All Reattas came with cruise

[Guest Beck]

Where are the cruise control controls?

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Where are the cruise control controls?

Turn signal stalk.

[Guest Beck]

Got it. I remember from a Chevy Lumina I once had possibly?

[Guest Beck]

Question, on the "A" Pillars there are clips holding them in place. Do you guys know how to get them?

[Guest Beck]

Hello all. I have some questions again if you donbt mind.

1, My speedometer and tach aren't functioning, neither is my temp sensor. The question, is the instrument panel plugged into 1 single wiring harness or is it possible that there is a disconnected wire for the speedometer and tach.

2, My brakes feel kind of soft or spongy. Question, Is that normal and Im just used to a stiifer pedal or is it possible I need to bleed the system? Im paranoid about the ABS system.

I thinks that's it for now. ciao beck

[ol' yeller]

1. If I recall correctly in a previous post during the test on the IPC your Tach, speedo, and temp gauge all lit up That shows that all the lights in the IPC are working. It is possible that it isn't seated correctly or the contacts are dirty. I'd pull the IPC, check carefully and clean the contacts with a good electrical cleaner and reassemble. This assumes that you are not getting an error report in your odometer or an electrical problem light.

2. Brakes should NOT feel soft or spongy. Again I assume there are no red or yellow lights lit on the IPC. It may be that someone (PO?) didn't know how to bleed the system correctly. Another reason why an FSM is very handy to have. I believe on Ronnie's site he had the procedure for bleeding the brakes. It would also be a good time to change the fluid as others have suggested. An ABS flush is not something you should put off. Teves ABS is a very good system when working correctly.

Edited May 16, 2014 by ol' yeller
fat fingers on the keyboard (see edit history)

[Guest Corvanti]

for question #2: if you don't know the age of the brake fluid, have it flushed. after a couple of years, moisture will find it's way into the system. at the same time, check your pads, etc. if replacement may be needed...

[Guest Beck]

The ABS flashes a few times when I start the car with my foot on the brake but goes out immediately when I put the car in gear. I will pull the IPC and see what going on.

Also I haven't cleared any old codes yet. If I clear old codes will it bring up current failure codes and tell me if the odometer, speedo and tach aren't in proper working order?

[Machiner 55]

Beck,

Just go ahead and clear them and go for a drive and report back what happens.

Won't do anything for your IP malfunction though.

Just an added warning. Clearing the fault codes on the Reattas doesn't do any harm. DON'T try this on other GM cars. You run the risk of turning off the monitors and then you are up crap creek. I did this on my wife's '98 Olds 88 and paid hell (and Dave's Automotive) dearly. On cars other than the Reatta (there may be others) you just fix the issue that may be causing the fault and drive the car normally. If you corrected the problem, the code will clear itself.

John F.

[KDirk]

Clearing codes will only clear those with history status (H suffix at end of code). Codes that are current will not be cleared, and clearing codes will not cause new ones to show up. In other words, only codes that are current at the time you enter diagnostics will show as current. New codes can show up subsequently in the same ignition cycle if they happen to occur after you have already pulled the codes.

The IPC polls the data line for all parameters displayed (speed, tach, temp, volts, oil pressure, fuel level as well as the main and trip odometers) so if some are not being displayed it could be an ECM, BCM or IPC failure. The BCM creates the data stream read by the IPC from data culled from its own memory (the main and trip odometers and the fuel level) and from the ECM (speed, tach, volts, temp and oil pressure). The malfunction indicators have their status controlled by other modules as well, including the EBCM (ABS brake module) and the SIR module under the drivers seat.

So, malfunctions in any of these modules may cause partial or full data loss, as will an IPC fault that results in erroneous decoding of the incoming data stream. If you hav some displays but not others, that is an unusual failure mode. Usually it is all or nothing. In the latter case the IPC will read "00 error" with the electrical problem telltale lit, and all other displays blacked out. If you aren't getting that symptom you have a strange partial failure not typically encountered. Some troubleshooting will be needed.

KDirk

Edited May 16, 2014 by KDirk (see edit history)

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Yes, I agree, clear all the codes and we'll see what comes back.

The speedo and coolant sensors are read by the ECM, data processed, passed on to the BCM and then sent over the data lines to the IPC for display. If they are the only gauge displays that don't display there isn't a connection problem at the IPC. Need to verify that the correct PROMs are installed as a wrong one could be the cause.

While you in diagnostics, very important you check ECM PROM number by going into ECM Data Mode and displaying ED99. Report back the 4 digit number that is displayed. Also check ED04, ED11, ED12, then switch to the BCM Data mode and report BD21, BD60, BD61, AND BD99.

This will tell us what each computer thinks the temp, speed and rpms are and we can check for the correct PROM version.

Edited May 16, 2014 by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)