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Are fuel filler necks repairable? Leak at seal/seam to tank...


beerczar1976

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I had to go check on my '50 Special today due to the report of a heavy smell of gas in a family member's garage. After putting some absorbent down on the floor and filling up a catch pan with absorbent I tried to search for the leak. Nothing looked all that wet though the dripping did eat through the 30 yr. old epoxy paint on the garage floor. I was actually surprised to see that when shining a flashlight down the filler neck, gas was still in the bottom 1/4 of the neck, so the leak must be insanely slow (the tank had been filled to almost the top of the filler neck about 3-1/2 months ago. I checked the bottom side of the tank, nothing out of the ordinary, the drain plug, no leaks, and then shined a light around where the filler neck is seamed onto the tank. I could see some wetness and feeling it, did detect some gas mixed with the road grime. As the car won't be moved again for a few weeks (damn cold and snow won't give us a break up here in Mass) I left a catch bucket filled with absorbent underneath the car.

Here's the question, once I drain the tank and pull it down from under the car, are tank shops typically capable of re-welding this seam or am I shopping for a new tank? I might as well check and probably replace the sending unit while I'm at it too, mine was pretty erratic over this past summer's rebuild period. I think all fuel related gear/components are still factory stock.

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I would think one could. I needed a new drain fitting on a tank once since the old one leaked at the joint. I took the tank to my local radiator shop and they brazed or soldered (I can't remember now which they did) a new fitting in just a few minutes. They either put the tank into their water tank or the filled it water and did the work.

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The seam ought to be reapairable as it is soldered in from the factory and early replacement procedures called for one to re use the filler neck when replacing the tank. Best to check the area at the seam directly below that neck though. That is the more likely place for the leak.

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Guest 53 Roady

The replacement tanks I found had short stubs not filler necks. This caused me to have mine refurbished. Something like JB weld might hold in this case, especially if you only almost fill your tank.

Pat

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Thanks for the input guys...That's what I was hoping to hear. There's a rad. shop in my town so I'll see if they do fuel tank work as well. Like I said, at this point, doesn't appear to be any other wet marks on tank except at that low corner and it seems like the fuel that is from that corner is running down to it, not necessarily out of it... We'll see. Snowing and 20 degrees here in Mass. today. Can't get a break. The winter that won't end!! Arrgghh...

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Gotta agree with Willie on this one, but I feel for you on that weather. Those fumes will overwhelm you if you merely open the drain plug and try to drop the gas. I would suggest getting one of those siphons from your auto parts store and drain from the filler cap if possible. Eliminating gas vapors is the best thing to do.

Also, I might suggest the leak could be at the sending unit. The gasket may be compromised, or as I experienced, the rivits holding the sending unit together can leak.

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I was thinking it might be the sending unit too though didn't really notice a telltale run mark down the side of the tank. I'll have to check further soon. As I said, I didn't have a lake under the car, it's a very SLOW drip. Probably one drip in the hour plus I was there. Odor was also more akin to what we as northerners are used to from after running the snowblower and then putting it back in the garage, stale gas smell vs. full on fuel spill. We also had some really warm weather, like 60-65 degrees for one day this week. No smell reported all winter prior to that day.

I'm going to give a local radiator/welding guy a call today to see if he's first willing/capable to do the job, and/or to get a lead to somebody else. Thanks for the ideas!

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