Guest crazytrain2 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I'm such a genius sometimes it's just plain scary. Went to change front brake pads for the umpteenth time only this time I managed to round off the interior of one of the allen head caliper bolts. The other bolt on this same side came off no problem. I pried against the old brake pad to push in the piston and managed to remove the old pads but I'm still stuck. The only thing I could come up with is to drill the head off the allen bolt bur now I'm not even sure this will work because: 1) Will I need to and if so can I get that sleeve off that goes around the bolt? 2) It appears I may have to drill out nearly the entire bolt before the caliper will come off.Anyone ever had this problem and or have suggestions to remedy?BTW - Grabbing it with an extractor or vise grips wasn't an option because it sets flush with caliper when installed.Also I'm hoping the calipers are the same in my car as the Reatta remember mine is an 89 Buick Electra Park Ave Ultra (but it is a Teves Mark I Brake System)Thanks guysMW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Have you tried removing the 2 hex head caliper mounting bracket bolts to take the entire caliper off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Taking off the hex head bolt will allow you to remove the caliper from the car and have more access. I would then soak the threaded end at least 24 hours and apply heat. If you have a welder, you might be able to weld a hex nut to the head of the caliper bolt and remove it. (after soaking)Although the car has the teves system the wheel calipers are not the same as a Reatta. Your Park Ave (Electra) caliper is the same a centruy, LeSabre, Deville, Fleetwood, Olds 98 and some other big GM cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalcoop Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Pipe wrench! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazytrain2 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 These calipers only have the 2 bolts holding them in place, both of them requireallen wrench to remove. They go through the caliper and when tightened down the head of the bolt(s) is flush with the surface of the caliper. The holes in the calipers are counter sunk. They then thread directly into the steering knuckle.. I'll snap a picture tommorrow to show what a engineering marvel this truly is. Just broke a drill bit off inside there so I'm really doing the Snoopy dance of happiness now.:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I'll snap a picture tommorrow to show what a engineering marvel this truly is. Just broke a drill bit off inside there so I'm really doing the Snoopy dance of happiness now.:mad:Forget the pic, let's have a video of the Snoopy dance.John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Look farther. There should be two aprox 19mm bolts holding the entire caliper on [at the hub]. You are still in the brake pad area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazytrain2 Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 LOL @ the video request I ended up having to drill the head off the bolt, then I could move the caliper in (towards the engine) enough to expose some of the bolt between the knuckle and the caliper. So then I drilled a hole through the bolt (perpendicular) and used the drill bit as a lever to turn the bolt. 5 minute job turned into 5 hour project, wondermous! And just to add insult to injury now I see Advance Auto carries an "Oversized 3/8" Allen Socket" for this very problem. Getting Happy Feet again rut-roe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Do us all a favor and the next time you have a question about your LaSabre. Tell us right up front what is different between it and a Reatta. Having a photo of the part in question would be helpful too. That will save us giving you an answer that doesn't apply to your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I know you are done, have the problem solved but I agree with other, that the front is a 2 piece unit. See attached page form parts book. Item 13 is the caliper and the long (allen head) screws you had problems with screw into item 14 which is the bracket (or adaptor)Item 14 is held to the spindle by two hex head bolts. If you remove those bolts, the caliper comes off with the bracket.You would need to disconnect the brake line to be able to take it to the work bench. Mute point now. Except for the next guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Moot. Not Mute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazytrain2 Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Thanks Barney, and unfortunately the fat lady hasn't sang just yet, (I still have the other side to do). And it just keeps getting better - The "3/8" Drive Oversized Hex Socket for Caliper Bolts" listed on A/A's website is not what it says it is (see part number 49015). The picture shows the socket but the part associated with the part number is actually a caliper bolt. Good Lord all I set out to do was change front brake pads, I mean c'mon already. Ithink I'm gonna get 1 size larger than what is called for from Harbor Freight and grind it down (angled) to insure a tight fit in the allen bolt. No way am I gonna chance stripping another one of these d___ things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I would try the grinding part but leave all the sides parallel to each other instead of angled so it can be tapped in very snugly. The tool will have more bite to it than if it were angled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 If I'm not mistaken, the statute of limitations that requires you to keep the original caliper bolts in place runs out after 20 years, so you can legally replaced these old stripped out bolts now if you get the hankering to make this job easier for next pad change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 10mm metric hex is equal to .3937 and the 3/8 = .375, that makes the 10mm .0187 larger (or almost the thickness of 3 IBM cards stacked) no charge for the trivia. Maybe I should just remain moot or mute or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 yep, i'd go with the 10mm hex, a good soaking of "PB Blaster" where the threaded areas meet the caliper overnight. then a "tap" on the head of the bolt with a small hammer if possible, to knock some of the crud off that the PB loosened up. a 10mm hex socket with a breaker bar that you can angle the socket on if necessary should do the trick.when working on disc brake calipers, there's no sound finer than hearing the pop of the bolt being freed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 CT2,If the hole in the Allen head starts to round out, you can try a Torxs bit. (the largest size that will fit the hole) Hammer it in and it might "bite" the hole a bit better. Maybe enough to help break it free.John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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