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carb differences....


NC-car-guy

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With the SIZE of the Special V-8, a bigger carb might seem like a good deal, but it's terribly EASY to over-carburete a smaller V-8 than a larger V-8. In other words, a carb that looks "too small" might be "just right" for the smaller engine, yet would tend to "hold back" a larger engine in the 3000rpm+ speed range. SAME with camshafts, too! Plus, "too much" airflow at lower rpms will also bog the motor . . . a bog which the "top end rush" of the too-big carb can't make up for in higher rpm power, once it gets to the higher rpm. Plus, consider the REAL amount of time you spend in the 3000rpm+ speed range, normally. Getting that 2bbl/small V-8 combination finessed for great throttle response and such might really surprise you in both driving pleasure and fuel economy. One reason the GM QuadraJet spreadbore 4bbl was born . . . to have the smaller primaries for normal driving and the larger secondaries for power at high rpm.

Did you find the carburetor numbers on those two carbs? Just curious . . . as that might explain what's going on with the two different carbs.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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No telling what those carbs came from without numbers. Neither seem to have the vacuum start switch that was mostly exclusive to Buick.

Most of the time the 2bbl will have a larger bore than the the primaries of a 4bbl and will give better seat of the pants driveablity in all but WOT situations. On the other hand nailheads like larger carbs than similar size brandX engine. A WCFB 2197s will wake up that 264.

Willie

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Not that it really matters because I still want to change to the 4bbl setup

I've done the same on a '54 Super. Don't over-carb it!! I would keep it on the authentic side and put in a 54-55 Carter 4-brl, that way you can keep the starter-in-the-gas-pedal. Be sure you get a few things off a parts car that might get overlooked, and which make the job MUCH easier: fuel and choke lines, throttle linkage, air filter, or course, manifold, dashpot and bracket. Have fun!

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Willie, they both have the switch just on the bottom right....which the pics don't show, i will get some numbers tomorrow. What is that carb number you listed?

Fr. Buick, I certainly plan on using a 4bbl intake and carb with the start switch off a 322 of similar years! I love the gas pedal start!

I also plan on the pertronix ignition

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The carburetor in the top two pictures is the older WCD style.

The carburetor in the next pictures is the newer WGD style.

BOTH have the original tags. The numbers on the tags will allow you to determine the exact application.

And if you are going to install a pertronix, I would suggest the installation of a good high output alternator.

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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And if you are going to install a pertronix, I would suggest the installation of a good high output alternator.

Jon.

...and now for your reading pleasure, my boring rant about Pertronix:

There is nothing special about installing electronic ignition in a stock distributor. Maybe if you adapted an HEI to your engine you might get the advantage of the larger distributor cap, thicker wires and the ability to install plugs with a wider gap. Any ignition system, electronic or points is just a switch, with electronic only having the advantage of working at high rpm (6,000+).

Also I have had some disasters with the Pertronix unit. It worked (same as stock with no increase in mpg, power or driveability) for 5,000 miles and then my rotor burned. Burned as in it literally caught fire inside the distributor and burned the tip off. The next year a friend had the exact same thing happen. Not heeding those incidents, I put the same unit in another engine with you guessed it... It seems that the carbon rod between the center and tip of a 55 rotor is what burns.

Calls to Pertronix were useless, since they offered no technical support. The original instructions for wiring to the car called for bypassing the resistor on the firewall. This is supposed to result in a hotter spark if used with their 'FlameThrower' coil. Internet research showed new installation instructions: use a stock coil and don't bypass the firewall resistor. I have not tried this and you should not either just to pay for an expensive switch.

Stock points/condensor will last 30,000 miles and will serve you well, just like they did when these old cars were contemporary. I would rather change them when I want to, not in the hot parking lot of a truck stop in Little Rock, AR. I still have the Pertronix and might sell it to someone I don't like, but would not sell or give to a friend.

Willie

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carb king, thanks for the info!

old tank... no worries! I learn a lot from rants of people who have experience with things like this. Thats good to know. The PO had actually installed all new stuff (cheap repops from rockauto) in the distributor and the car didnt run worth a cr*p. I replaced with an NOS rotor button and the points out of a distributor off a 264 I had previously. (Im guessing these points were old as they have the bakelite base, I sand them clean and adjust them) The car runs like a top and you barely hear it running! I did notice that I have a condenser at my coil too... is that stock?? That carb you refer to a couple posts back.... is that the Buick 4bbl??

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The tag on the carb in the top 2 photos (currently on the car) reads 2179S. The tag on the lower two photos (spare carb) reads 2292S. The last letter/digit is hard to read on both but appears to be "s". Upon looking these numbers up, rebuild kits are pricey! Is there any known advantage of one over the other? Again, I will likely sell these once I get my 322 4bbl stuff.

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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