packick Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I have replaced all of the vacuum lines going to/from my window washer. The jar is about 1/3 full of water. Does the jar itself need to build up a vacuum before the system will start to squirt water? Also, do the wipers need to be running to get the washer to work or is it like a modern car where pushing the washer button will engage the wipers and squirt water on the windows?Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Joe, the wiper action is controlled by cable from off to on, the washer is push button, sends vacuum to the unit in the jar. The pump only has to be submerged to water level, the jar is not under vacuum. TJ55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 You can rebuild both the pump and the switch, first be sure you have good vacuum to the pump at idle. You can remove pump from jar to test it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 None of mine have ever worked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 None of mine have ever worked...WHAT!!! and with them big damn bugs ya'll got in Texas??!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Yeah Lamar, You would think that between the two of 'em (Mike and Willie), they could get a washer system working,huh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Rain X keeps the bug guts fresh enough to wipe off.I don't need no stinkin' washer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Touche!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 TJ55,You need to drag yer butt down to CenTex sometime and I'll buy you some BBQ and a cold one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Isn't Rain-X just silicone, like Armor-All? Doesn't it play havoc with the paint, if you ever have to make repairs to panels that have been exposed to the stuff?Nobody uses Rain-X around here because any time the roads are wet, they're also dirty. You've got to use your squirters all the time to see where you're going. When I bought wifey's new old BMW last year, we couldn't figure out why is was going through gallons of washer fluid. Turns out, every time you spritz the windshield, the headlight washers go full bore, too, with about six strong shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 First I gotta get my windshield washers workin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 To answer Rob,Not sure, haven't ever had to repair a panel near the windshield. I thought everybody used Rain-X on their old cars. I don't use it on my modern transportation, because they all have excellent wiper motors and perfectly working spray patterns when washing is necessary (very often during pollen season--all four of them).I had my Special's washer work for me twice a long time ago and it was literally the saddest little dribble, that I just gave up. Since most of our cars aren't driven as often in nasty conditions, I figure I can just wash off the big chunks at the next fill up. For Joe, I imagine making sure all of the vacuum lines were in good shape would be where I would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Sorry Joe,I let the silliness get away from your first post where you clearly stated that the vacuum lines were new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Yeah Lamar, You would think that between the two of 'em (Mike and Willie), they could get a washer system working,huh.All of mine work;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I've never seen it.Just sayin' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Boy, after all that, "What was the topic again?"If my pump is working, then maybe it takes a little time to refill all of the new vacuum lines with water again and I just have to be patient. But I may pull the pump and bench test it to make sure it is working. Thanks for all of the help . . . I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Isn't Rain-X just silicone, like Armor-All? Doesn't it play havoc with the paint, if you ever have to make repairs to panels that have been exposed to the stuff?Nobody uses Rain-X around here because any time the roads are wet, they're also dirty. You've got to use your squirters all the time to see where you're going. When I bought wifey's new old BMW last year, we couldn't figure out why is was going through gallons of washer fluid. Turns out, every time you spritz the windshield, the headlight washers go full bore, too, with about six strong shots.RobHave some fun and turn those Beemer headlight squirters around so they face forward and nail unsuspecting pedestriansin the cross walks ......!! mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Hey Joe, don't run off. If you just replaced your washer hoses, new hoses to squirter nozzles also? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 John:Yes, I replaced all hoses. And this past winter I blew air through the hoses that connect to the bottle and air did come out of the nozzles on the firewall through one of them. By the way, I assume the pump is the unit inside the glass jar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 John:Yes, I replaced all hoses. And this past winter I blew air through the hoses that connect to the bottle and air did come out of the nozzles on the firewall through one of them. By the way, I assume the pump is the unit inside the glass jar?yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 And it is relatively easy to disassemble.I know on other pumps (septic, etc) you need to prime them. Maybe that is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Hey Mike M. Just got mine working and they didn't need no stinkin' primin'! Of couse they did pee in the floor until I put on new hoses. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Cool.I guess mine just don't work then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) Joe,.........It really is easier to test on the car. First, disconnect vac hose at washer bottle and hook a vacuum guage directly to it, check vacuum when button is held down, that will show you if switch is erratic. My vacuum is weak at 15"hg idling. I have 20" from the Y connector when wiper motor hose is disconnected and dead ended into guage. Reconnect vacuum hose and remove water hose. Push and hold button appx 4-5 seconds and release. If it doesn't start squirting water after 5 or 6 cycles, it never will. Remove lid, remove the nut and pump from lid. Remove side hose and spring clip from middle of pump body. Make note of all parts and position. Mine had a broken spring. Clean up all parts and if still pliable, re-assemble in reverse order with light silicone grease or spray. That reed valve at top of vacuum chamber shuts off vacuum when pump hits full stroke and holds it there. Test it to see if it leaks vacuum when applied during piston travel, it should not leak until piston reaches top of stroke and then chatter. Mine leaked so I sealed the pump to the gasket surface with new gasket I made. You may need to use an 8" fine flat file to smooth the casting ridges so that you have a circular seal pattern with 4 radial lines to center fitting. Use a fender washer on top to increase clamping surface area, smear a little plumbers putty or caulk under the washer and tighten nut with fitting aligned same direction as other fitting.If the reed assembly does not leak, the top of the pump should have a vent path, I am not sure if it is critical. Check the water side check valve by alternately blowing and sucking of the pickup tube, it must backseat to hold water in the chamber. Re-attach hose and put back in jar. Test it on the car again. If it works, connect water hose and watch for leaks under the dash onto glove box or floor. I made a new gasket for my lid. If you use rubberized cork, you may get a better seal on pump than paper gasket. Edited June 1, 2013 by TexasJohn55 Clarification on need to seal pump to lid. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 TexasJohn: Thanks for the detailed instructions. When I get a free moment I will follow them and see what could be the problem. I suspect the jar in that I had it apart over the winter.Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Joe, I forgot to mention a couple things. The water pickup on the bottom has a light check valve in it, blow back and forth thru it to be sure it seats when you suck on the pipe and opens when you blow into it. If your main return spring is broken, try a hardware store for a replacement. It is a 7/8" diam. x .080" wire x appx 5" long, If you can find a comparable spring rate.. I picked up a pack at Home Depot but not exactly what I wanted, a little too heavy spring but worked in a pinch. A spring as short as 4 1/4" should work. Also, the pump bodies have timing arrows, match them up on assembly, (but it will only go one way). John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pletch Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Texas John, Great write upThank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Thanks again, TexasJohn. I agree with Pletch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) Something else to watch for - avoid overfilling the washer jar. The lower half of the piston assembly (the narrow part) is all that needs to be submerged. If the jar is overfilled, fluid gets into the vacuum chamber (the larger diameter piston) and could find its way to the vacuum button on the dash. When my system was disassembled it was full of rust and blue colored sediment - it took alot of careful cleaning. The button and check valves can be made to seal up and work again. Also, if the vac chamber in the pump gets water in it that large spring corrodes in like exponential time and breaks quick. I dipped mine in POR 15 to help with longevity. Regarding the washer pump body, I had to get new gaskets for both pistons to get it to work again. They were found on a Cadillac site, but can't find the link right at the moment. There are kits out there for a pretty steep price - I think my cost was less than 30 for gaskets and springs about five years ago and was all I could find. Making my own was a Fail (A for effort, F for results). Another tip - try using distilled water in the system with a splash of washer fluid to give it a blue tint. Less sediment build up as water evaporates from engine heat.Great thread and writeups - and another vote on Rain-X for the windshield! Edited June 1, 2013 by KAD36 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 I agree with KAD36, this has been a great and informative thread. Who would of thought that so much discussion could occur over a washer jar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Kad36 made some very good points. If any member knows of a comprehensive rebuild article on these vacuum pump, please post it for all of us. It would save authoring another piece on the issue. TexasJohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Joe, when testing the unit while removed from lid, listen for vacuum leaks from unit, if you find it coming from the top of pump housing at the reed pin, lightly push it down and see if it stops leaking. That is one way of checking the integrity of the little rubber washer under the pin head. It will leak when piston hits full stroke but should not leak while piston is traveling up under vacuum. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Kad36 made some very good points. If any member knows of a comprehensive rebuild article on these vacuum pump, please post it for all of us. It would save authoring another piece on the issue. TexasJohnWrite one Dude!Wait a minute, you already did.Write it officially and submit it to Shadetree. He is the tech writer for the Bugle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Mike, having rebuilt one unit does not qualify me as an expert, just trying to help others while it is fresh in my mind. ( I'm afraid that won't last long because I couldn't remember how to remove a dash cap from the last time I did it!!) John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) Write one Dude!Wait a minute, you already did.Write it officially and submit it to Shadetree. He is the tech writer for the Bugle.TexasJohn55's writeups are a good starting point.How about a bunch of us show up at Mikes house, drain a few pints and then attempt to write the article together complete with pictures. How would that go? Starting out now I might make it to Texas in a week.... Edited June 2, 2013 by KAD36 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Seriously John.Rewrite what you wrote here.Don't know if Robert has seen this, but send it to Shadetree77 here on the forums. I will take some pics of one I have lying around if necessary. You know your stuff, and it should be shared.(Even if mine don't work and I think they are useless!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 In case you do write an article, I found this diagram buried in the depths of my computer that I got a while back from another thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 I just emailed Robert to let him know about this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Thanks guys but I need a better in depth understanding of it all before I could do an article. I'm adverse to putting out false or incorrect information that could mislead others. I sometimes try to help when I myself don't have a clear understanding of what I speak. I will consider the idea, just not right now. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packick Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) Greetings: I finally got a chance to rebuild the window washer pump on my '55 Century (thanks to the tips and instructions on this thread). To my surprise it now works. But I am not sure it works as-advertised. With one push of the button on the dash, I get a solid stream of water out of both washer outlets, but the stream of water lasts about 3-4 seconds or so. It seems like a long time to me. Is that the way these work? Or is there an adjustment inside the pump which regulates how long the water squirts for?Thanks. Edited December 18, 2013 by packick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now