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To Dynamat or not to Dynamat? That is the question


Dwight Romberger

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Guest martylum

Hi Dwight-looks like a fine restoration. I drive a 30 Desoto roadster on Tours and am surprised how much heat comes back through the firewall on a warm day. Even at 30 degrees you can keep feet fairly warm with this same heat. On really hot days we drive with the doors partly open.

Do think about insulating the firewall and front floorboards as much as possible unless you are installing A/C.

I'm currently restoring a 35 Chevy 4 door for a customer and he's used a much less expensive version of DynaMat for covering the inside of all doors, the body sides and even the floorboards using it in place of the original tarpaper covering. I'll be interested in seeing how quiet his car is on the road when finished as i never took this much effort with any of my own early cars.

I'm going to use a thin sound deadener in a 53 Buick convertible restoration in place of the original heavy tarpaper on the floors and in the doors..

Be interested in hearing how it works out for you.

Marty Lum

1930 Desoto 1933 Chrysler

Enjoy

Martin Lum

1930 Desoto

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Thanks for the replies guys. I quess I will use some product.

I quess I will go all out on the firewall and floor. I may use a less expensive product inside the doors.

I am acouple of work days away from a running chassis.

I think Feb to April I am going to try to push to get it done. (Everything except the upholstery)

Dwight

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Dwight, FWIW this has been discussed in detail on other forums and while I cannot speak from personal experience, consensus seems to be that their is an insulation product available at the big box home centers (Lowes, Depot) that has ALL of the properties Dynomat does except the logo, for a fraction of the price. Before you order you may want to check that out.

Great to hear you are closing in on a running chassis, always a big milestone!!

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Apologies gents, for being a bit lazy earlier. Mike, as an aside I know from experience ten feet of the stuff won't cool the footwells in that TR-6!!! ;)

This from an MB forum was what I was thinking of - did not take too much time to find...

Interior rebuild getting closer, Dynamat installed. - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

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Guest Skyking
Dwight, FWIW this has been discussed in detail on other forums and while I cannot speak from personal experience, consensus seems to be that their is an insulation product available at the big box home centers (Lowes, Depot) that has ALL of the properties Dynomat does except the logo, for a fraction of the price. Before you order you may want to check that out.

Steve, the product that Home Depot or Lowe's sells has foil on both sides and has to be glued down in place. I've been thinking about doing my '54 Met with this. I can't see it not working..........

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I would be cautious about what I put on the inside of the doors on some older cars. Many pre war cars and trucks had no outside beltstrips or rubber to keep out water. Also they leak around door hinges. If you use a sound deadner in the doors make sure that it is impervious to water and will not trap moisture around the edges. I prefer to use 3-M Body Shutz or heavy undercoat instead on glued on material. Also make sure that all applications are hidden,epecially if you're doing a restoration!

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It is worth also noting that sometimes people buy sound insulation when what they need is something to help dampen resonance. The difference being sound insulation helps quiet the car from outside or mechanical noises, the resonance factor comes into play when you have loud drumming or droning sounds that sometimes occur in (primarily) older cars that have wide flat or gently curved panels that act like a taut drum skin and amplify sounds. You tamp down resonance by adding dense material to control it, even rope caulk material can work for this. Lots of info online and via the Benz forums Steve posted, since this is largely not brand specific info it is useful.

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