Dwight Romberger Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Hi All,I am only going to get one opportunity to install heat shield/sound deading material in my '30 Buick restoration.What are the pro's and con'sAnyone installed it and wish they hadn't or didn't and wish they had?Thanks. I value and appreciate your opinions.Dwight
motoringicons Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Dynamat works well and is a great product. I think you will be happy with the results.
Guest martylum Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Hi Dwight-looks like a fine restoration. I drive a 30 Desoto roadster on Tours and am surprised how much heat comes back through the firewall on a warm day. Even at 30 degrees you can keep feet fairly warm with this same heat. On really hot days we drive with the doors partly open.Do think about insulating the firewall and front floorboards as much as possible unless you are installing A/C.I'm currently restoring a 35 Chevy 4 door for a customer and he's used a much less expensive version of DynaMat for covering the inside of all doors, the body sides and even the floorboards using it in place of the original tarpaper covering. I'll be interested in seeing how quiet his car is on the road when finished as i never took this much effort with any of my own early cars.I'm going to use a thin sound deadener in a 53 Buick convertible restoration in place of the original heavy tarpaper on the floors and in the doors..Be interested in hearing how it works out for you.Marty Lum1930 Desoto 1933 ChryslerEnjoyMartin Lum1930 Desoto
Dwight Romberger Posted February 7, 2013 Author Posted February 7, 2013 Thanks for the replies guys. I quess I will use some product.I quess I will go all out on the firewall and floor. I may use a less expensive product inside the doors.I am acouple of work days away from a running chassis.I think Feb to April I am going to try to push to get it done. (Everything except the upholstery)Dwight
Steve_Mack_CT Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Dwight, FWIW this has been discussed in detail on other forums and while I cannot speak from personal experience, consensus seems to be that their is an insulation product available at the big box home centers (Lowes, Depot) that has ALL of the properties Dynomat does except the logo, for a fraction of the price. Before you order you may want to check that out.Great to hear you are closing in on a running chassis, always a big milestone!!
Dwight Romberger Posted February 7, 2013 Author Posted February 7, 2013 Thanks Steve. I usually do a forum search before I ask a question. I forgot this time. OOPS! I will read the previous discussions. Thanks for the heads up.Dwight
JPHIL Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Great timing ! I am in the process of cutting and installing upholstery panels for my '32 DeSoto Roadster, including the firewall liner. I will be sure to first install Dynamat.Many thanks for the info.
Durant Mike Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Great to see this question. I was thinking about using it too in my Durant restoration. Metal firewall and wooden floors do not keep engine heat out of the interior especially in Florida. Should cut down on the rattles too.
Steve_Mack_CT Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Apologies gents, for being a bit lazy earlier. Mike, as an aside I know from experience ten feet of the stuff won't cool the footwells in that TR-6!!! This from an MB forum was what I was thinking of - did not take too much time to find...Interior rebuild getting closer, Dynamat installed. - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
Guest Skyking Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 Dwight, FWIW this has been discussed in detail on other forums and while I cannot speak from personal experience, consensus seems to be that their is an insulation product available at the big box home centers (Lowes, Depot) that has ALL of the properties Dynomat does except the logo, for a fraction of the price. Before you order you may want to check that out.Steve, the product that Home Depot or Lowe's sells has foil on both sides and has to be glued down in place. I've been thinking about doing my '54 Met with this. I can't see it not working..........
jpage Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 I would be cautious about what I put on the inside of the doors on some older cars. Many pre war cars and trucks had no outside beltstrips or rubber to keep out water. Also they leak around door hinges. If you use a sound deadner in the doors make sure that it is impervious to water and will not trap moisture around the edges. I prefer to use 3-M Body Shutz or heavy undercoat instead on glued on material. Also make sure that all applications are hidden,epecially if you're doing a restoration!
Dwight Romberger Posted February 7, 2013 Author Posted February 7, 2013 jpage,I have been worried about using anything that might hold or trap water anywhere. Water isn't good for wood, steel or fabric!Dwight
MarrsCars Posted February 14, 2013 Posted February 14, 2013 It is worth also noting that sometimes people buy sound insulation when what they need is something to help dampen resonance. The difference being sound insulation helps quiet the car from outside or mechanical noises, the resonance factor comes into play when you have loud drumming or droning sounds that sometimes occur in (primarily) older cars that have wide flat or gently curved panels that act like a taut drum skin and amplify sounds. You tamp down resonance by adding dense material to control it, even rope caulk material can work for this. Lots of info online and via the Benz forums Steve posted, since this is largely not brand specific info it is useful.
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