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1939 Buick Special


Guest ambr607

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Guest ambr607

I'm not even finished with my '62 yet but this caught my interest at the shop the other day:

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Needs an interior and the chrome could use some help but paint is good, body and floors solid, still 6 volt with original straight 8. It was running when it went into the garage years ago but needs some help to bring it back to life. I know there's a few '39 fans around here (and down under) - what things should I be looking for/at on this car?

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Guest Grant Magrath

Rust is the killer. Check the trunk, under the doors, and the scuttle under the front guards. Look at lots of 39 Buicks online to work out what's original equipment. OR take lots of pics and post them here! There are plenty of clever guys here that can help you. Factory accessories are always a bonus, eg heater, radio, steering wheel, etc. Interior wise, you could fork out a good amount of money for a complete interior kit, or buy the fabric and do a lot of it yourself, depending on your ability/confidence. If she's all there, no missing bits, brilliant. Good luck. She looks like a beauty!

Cheers

Grant

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Steve,

She looks like a beauty.

Grant and Danny will be the "experts" on '39's and they are always on the prowl for new team members.

Interiors are easy, as "bedford cord" is available. You can still get ign parts @ NAPA, and eng/tx parts are available on line.

You don't have to do it all at once, and the journey is better than the destination.

Lots of help here on the forums. Lord knows I needed a lot when I first got mine, and it is still a work in process.

Mike in Colorado

Darn, Grant beat me by 2 minutes

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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G'day Steve,

There are a couple of unique things about the '39 but nothing that can't be fixed as would be the case with most cars.

Does this car have the short or long chassis ? Even if it is the short chassis that's not necessarily a bad thing. have a look and see if the chassis stops at the rear springs.

There is an early and a late grill, different spacings between the vertical rungs in the earlier contributed to higher running temps but again not always.

The '39 also had a two piece torque tube which were prone to problems but again easily fixable.

" It was running when it went into the garage years ago but" There is always a but :) Does it turn over ??

It looks quite good going by the picture. I'd just do the same due diligence as I would with any other car and if you get it, deal with the problems as they arrive.There's always room for another '39 team member.

Danny

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Guest Grant Magrath

Don't forget Allan B, Earl and Grandpa! Those guys know heaps about the old 39s. Looking at the wiper transmissions, I'd guess that this car is a late production full chassis one.

Mike, I gave you 6 hours! And I thought we'd recruited you since your beautiful 1940 was assembled in Sept 1939!

At the moment, 39's are relatively easy to find parts for, and there are lots of reproduction items available as well.

Cheers

Grant

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Grant,

O.K. so she's a '39 from the firewall back and that's most of her.

I'm led to believe the big cars (80-90) were all common from the windshield back from '38-'40 anyway.

She's just wearing different "lipstick". The front end.

So can I be an honorary '39 member ?

Steve,

If I had the space for another Buick, I would snap this one up in a heartbeat.

Care to give us a "ballpark" price on the car, or are you still dealing, and don't want to tip your hand.

I might be able to talk the wifey into a garage addition

Mike in Colorado

PS Danny, I see 2, maybe three '39's. One white and maybe 2 blacks. But they are all on the wrong side of the road. He.He.

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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As above (hidden) rust is an issue. The rear valance panel is double skinned, where the bumper brackets come out. Rusts from within.

This blog shows it well 1939 Special Business Coupe [This car was sold on ebay a while ago at a very good price (for the buyer)]

'39 series 40 transmission & diff have many 1 year only parts.

However a '39 team member has successfully adapted a '41 transmission (much better parts availability)

If you can drive it, check that it changes gear OK, does not jump out of gear on acceleration or de-acceleration and/or make [expensive] noises.

Edited by 1939_buick (see edit history)
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Guest ambr607

It was supposedly running when parked several years ago but the 6v battery is dead so I haven't been able to start or drive it. The body and floor are solid with good paint. The interior needs to be redone, banjo steering wheel rim is badly cracked in several places. At a minimum the bumpers need replating, other chrome shows minor pitting.

Owner is asking $8000. Add mechanical, interior, and chrome and I'm easily bumping $20,000.

I don't know these older cars well enough to make an informed decision which is why I'm leaning on you guys. Deal or money pit?

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Guest Grant Magrath

Good question. Can you post some more pictures? As long as you're doing it as a hobby and not an investment, you should be fine. Have you had a look on eBay to see what other 39's are getting? And how much the restored ones are going for? That should give you an idea of where things are at at the moment.

She looks like she'd shine up ok, and you can keep your costs down by doing the bulk of the work yourself. That is, if you have the time! Interior is probably your biggest expense, but at least you don't have to worry about body work or paint. Bell Buick Parts (Nuttybuick on eBay) sell bits for stooooopidly high prices, but we got a re-cast and re-chromed steering wheel from them for the coupe ($495).

BTW, whilst it's not good practise, it is possible to use a 12v jump starter to wind the car over, but unless they drained the tank, the gas would just be gum now. But for now, pictures please!!

Cheers

Grant

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Grant, just on the starter motor running 12v, my old mate's '39 Century was converted to a 12v and alternator system but it retained the std 6v starter motor for many years right up to the point of him selling the old girl. We did thousands of miles in that old girl and it never failed once. It also ran on LPG.

Danny

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Guest Grant Magrath

Awesome! They don't make em like that any more. LPG. How popular was that for a while there in the late 70's-80's! I remember firing up our old 1935 Dodge for the first time using a 12v battery. She sure spun!

Cheers

Grant

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Just my 2 cents worth. My '39 model 48 has been on 12 volts for a couple years with the original starter. Sure spins fast!. As long as you don't have to crank for long periods, (will not start, etc), should be OK. Long cranking will overheat the unit, and sure shorten it life.

Gary

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We're gonna try to start our car Sunday for the first time. We have a combo 6V/12V cranking power/charger that should crank it, if not we'll see. I am trying to avoid buying another 6V battery other than the OEM-style one. We don't want to put the good one into commission until we're actually close to driving it. It would just sit there and go bad over time before we even get the car done.

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Great to hear Billy.

Billy, VIDEO !! We want Video !! There must be a U-Tube clip in this :) :) :)

This is almost as big an occasion as having your first born. I can clearly remember firing mine up for the first time and you couldn't wipe that grin of my face.

After a few cranks to fill the carby she fired up so easily and just purred away like a kitten.

A true symphony of cylinders. :):)

Can I give you a tip, make sure that the radiator support is secured tightly and will not move should you bump it as you walk from one side to the other. You will put the fan blade through your radiator.

(and no, I don't want to talk about it, it's just to painful :) )

Danny

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Just my 2 cents worth. My '39 model 48 has been on 12 volts for a couple years with the original starter. Sure spins fast!. As long as you don't have to crank for long periods, (will not start, etc), should be OK. Long cranking will overheat the unit, and sure shorten it life.

Gary

Agreed Gary,

I think the fact that they spin so fast helps them to start easier and in turn reduces the load time on the starter.

Danny

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Thanks Danny, yes there will be video!

My father has built many engines and they all start right up everytime the first time. I hope his success continues. I keep thinking of things to double check and he just says "don't worry, it will run fine."

I see what you are saying about the radiator. Basically the only things holding it on right now is the upper hose and the one bolt in the bottom. Will proceed with caution. :)

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I see what you are saying about the radiator. Basically the only things holding it on right now is the upper hose and the one bolt in the bottom. Will proceed with caution. :)

It's a painfull experience, especially when it's a brand new heavy duty core....... Oh the pain, the pain.... :(

Danny

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since I don't believe in changing anything from original connecting rod rod bearings and the oil pump, my opinion is that a 6v battery is easy to buy, and except maybe a recently rebuilt car when it's hot, a 39 Buick starts just fine on 6volts. I do not, however, use the original 2E battery, but instead a commercial version. It is C-something.....I'll go look if anybody wants to know. It spins faster and lasts longer and still fits the battery box and cover.

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Hi Earl: When you get a chance I'd like to know that number of the commercial battery. I was not aware something like that existed. I was at the local Tractor Supply Center the other day and sitting on the shelf side by side were a 2E 6 volt and a 3EE 12 volt. Don't recall the price but I don't recall being shocked.

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