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Engine Miss on Hard Accel... Pt 2


Guest PontiacDude210

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Guest PontiacDude210

So, I have a 1990 with a lot of miles. When I bought it, it missed with the accelerator past about 70 percent. I have done Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, and a Fuel Filter and it is slowly improving. I don't know where to go from here. Odd correlation though. I had a lot of engine whine through the speakers with the radio on, and it got quieter but didn't go away with new wires. What should I be looking at now?

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Guest PontiacDude210

Also, it will miss and sputter with the accelerator pinned at 60 mph, but then once it downshifts and the RPMS increase, it seems to run fine.

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Guest Corvanti

agree with "Padgett" with a coil/electrical problem - especially if the "radio whine" goes up & down with engine rpm.:)

also "ass-u-ming" your new plugs are resistor type...

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As 2seater says, whine varying with rpm usually means alternator. Ignition is 'crackly'. Fuel pump and computer issues can cause a constant 'hash'. Check all grounding points and antenna connections too.

If the alternator is causing a serious whine, it may have problems that could account for the missing at high rpm. Easy to remove it and take it over to a shop for testing.

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Guest PontiacDude210

I have the magnavox coil, it looks awful though. I am thinking conversion to the 3 independent coil packs, are they a direct bolt on?

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I had a problem with my magnavox. I went to a junk yard to find a Delco. I had a very hard time finishing the right one with the adaptor plate and everything.

I finally found one, and it didn't work. Took it back, found another and it didn't work either. $50+ out of pocket plus gas and two days time

Took a magnavox off a parts car and installed. 10 minutes total and the car runs like new. Best running Reatta I have.

Delco isn't an upgrade IMNSHO. It's a waste of time. Just get a magnavox and be done with it.

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Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer chancet. All of my Reattae have Delcos. BTW if you kept them you now have two of the hard part: the plate and screws. The same module and coils were used on 3800s including L67s until about 2010 just the plate was different after '94 (no longer just a flat plate).

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Guest PontiacDude210

I am finding a lot of crazy expensive oem and a lot of cheap aftermarket Magnavox type. I don't have time to convert right now, I drive my reatta every day, all summer.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest PontiacDude210

I picked up a New coil pack, and cant get the bolts out of the old one. Also, it just recently started missing while cold, and when it misses the tach spikes. When it warms up, or at higher rpms it is fine.

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Guest Mc_Reatta
I picked up a New coil pack, and cant get the bolts out of the old one. Also, it just recently started missing while cold, and when it misses the tach spikes. When it warms up, or at higher rpms it is fine.

Some penetrating oil (from the back) and taps with a hammer should do the trick after removing the ICM and coil pack from the car.

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Guest PontiacDude210

Thanks. Slightly off topic but still related, could a bad ground to the engine block cause tach spikes, or do i have a shot crank pos sensor? Or could it be the coil?

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Guest PontiacDude210

It stalled out this morning and acted like the battery came disconnected. Its lookibg like new cable ends and cleaned up grounds this weekend.

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Guest PontiacDude210

Misses intermittently while warming up, then clears up once it warms up and runs a while. Changed the ignition out, and then it started missing going down the road after warming up. Misses more and more, then constant. Now it won't stay running, constant miss, and no engine response to the throttle at all. Start up, rough idle, put into gear, then dies. Smoke coming fron behind the engine block, smells like oil, looks like it could be near the rear manifold? What the... I just changed the coil pack, ignition control module, and brake pads. It's been doing this cold for a while. 3.8 liter v6 series 1. halp

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Guest PontiacDude210

I went back and it started up and ran fine getting it on the trailer. The tach spikes when it misses would tell me the timing problem has gotta be where the tach reading is taken, or where it is processed. That leaves harmonic balancer, crank position sensor, and ECM. I will opt to work on the CPS and balancer first, because I can't afford to make a guess at a 3 to 400 dollar ECM. Esp. when I know the CPS and balancer are inherently bad on these cars.

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I went back and it started up and ran fine getting it on the trailer. The tach spikes when it misses would tell me the timing problem has gotta be where the tach reading is taken, or where it is processed. That leaves harmonic balancer, crank position sensor, and ECM. I will opt to work on the CPS and balancer first, because I can't afford to make a guess at a 3 to 400 dollar ECM. Esp. when I know the CPS and balancer are inherently bad on these cars.
All those items are available in The Reatta Store.

Re-manufactured ECM is $111.31 with Free shipping.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Sure could be that crank sensor. Tach value is calculated by the ECM from the fuel control signal which is generated by the ICM from the two CPS signals. Unfortunately all three could be temperature sensitive. CPS is the hardest to replace, but the least expensive to purchase. None of them typically triggers a trouble code. Best way to troubleshoot is with an o-scope.

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Keep in mind that CPS is two parts.

Crank Position Sensor which is down by the harmonic balancer, and Cam Position Sensor which is sorta behind the water pump.

And you're not tripping any trouble codes? Normally a bad Cam magnet (which sits in the cam sprocket and is what the sensor senses) will set a code. Same thing with the crank sensor I believe.

If no codes, I still suspect the ECM. Ronnie's price is a pretty good price for an ECM. though the last remanufactured ECM I bought fixed my original problem, but created another. Finally got a good one the second time around, but a little frustrating.

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A missing cam magnet or defective cam position sensor will set a code E041. They will not cause the engine to stall or keep it from running. There will be a slight loss of power and gas mileage due to less than optimum timing of the opening of the fuel injectors.

A bad crankshaft position sensor won't set a code nor will the ICM if it is bad. It is well documented here on the forum that the symptoms you are having have been cured with replacing the crankshaft position sensor. That doesn't mean that you couldn't have a different problem. It just means it is possible that it could be your problem.

There have been several re-manufactured ECMs sold from the Reatta Store over the past year. I have never heard a complaint about one of them and I have no record of one of them being returned for refund or exchange.

You can buy with confidence from the Reatta Store. It has the full backing and support of Amazon.com, including returning an item for refund or exchange within 30 days. Only one item, a widow motor, has been returned in the past year that I'm aware of.

Edited by Ronnie
clarification (see edit history)
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Guest PontiacDude210

So I will change the cps because it is cheaper and available locally, and if i still have problens, the reatta store sounds like a great place to get an ecm. Thanks guys, you are awesome.

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Guest PontiacDude210

I got the car up in the air to look at the sensor, and it moved a quarter inch to either side with little pressure. a lot of cleaning and a new sensor, and my baby is all better. Thanks guys.

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