Guest bofusmosby Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Greetings all! One of our members here has some extra bearings that might fit my car, but he needs part numbers for the inner and outer bearings and their races for the front of my 37 Pontiac 6 cyl. car. If anyone has a parts book, I would REALLY appreciate you looking this up for me and posting the part numbers.Thank you in advance for doing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Most of the factory roller brgs. are Timken and should have a number on the outer case. Take one out and clean it to see if the number is there. He's probably going to need the mfg. number not the OEM part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poci1957 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi Jim, looks like these are the original part numbers for a complete bearing package (that is cone, cup and balls all in one package):INNER New Departure 909002FITS 1933-39 Pontiac, plus probably othersOUTER New Departure 909001 FITS 1933-57 Pontiac1946-54 AND 1956-57 Chevy car, 1946-57 Chevy and GMC 1/2 ton truckNote that in this instance these part numbers are as used by both Pontiac AND New Departure. Write back if any other questions come up,Todd CrewsPOCI 1957 Technical Advisor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thank you guys for your help. Todd, I located the bearing at NAPA, but the price was just too high. The outer bearings are over $60, but they have cheaper replacements for $27. Now the inners are a different story. They have no cheap replacements, and the inners are over $130 each! I have a catalog from Pontiac Parts that has the outers listed a $40, and the inners at $45. I'll probably be getting them there. I just hope they will last a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Look in the yellow pages for a local bearing supply company. They sell bearings, seals, etc for all kinds of industrial uses. They can get any bearing or seal if it is in production, and have the cheapest prices.They go by the bearing number not the car company parts number or model, make or year. If you have the numbers, or if you can take the original parts in to measure, or if the old bearing has a number on it, they can fix you up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Interesting charges. I just bought a CRS B01 which is the current number for an American made 909001. I paid $50.55 for it.I had to replace one of my original front wheel bearings (after 82 years and 498,000 miles). I had two complete inner and outer bearings on the shelf but thought they would never get any cheaper so I would replace the one on the shelf now. The two outers that I had cost me $8.00 each in 1962 abd the inners were $9.75. Of course I was only earning 65 cents an hour then. So by comparison the current ones would still be a steal 300.00. It really is not so expensive if we relate the cost to hours work required rather than just $$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 RustyI contacted a couple of bearing places where I live, and they both told me that pretty much would have nothing I need. They recommended I call NAPA. Go figure.TinindianI was just surprised by the expense of the inner bearings. I believe my heart skipped a beat on that one! I had always assumed that NAPA prices would be cheaper then the parts places that specialized in old car parts.I've got to wonder about the cheaper outer bearings that NAPA is selling. They are on $27, which means that they must be a cheaper manufacturer, or perhaps worse....CHINA! Since I do not put a lot of mileage on my car, would it be a mistake to get the cheaper outers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Bearing houses will not be able to source them from application. You will need the numbers actually stamped/engraved on the bearings and races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I've got to take my car in to a garage Saturday, so when I get the car back, I'll remove one of the front wheels and get the numbers. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poci1957 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hello Jim, Rusty is right about using a bearing house EXCEPT that these are ball type bearings, not the normal roller type. That is why they are harder to find now and more expensive. If you can still buy for $40 or $45 each I would buy two sets ASAP (but I bet you can't).I would reluctantly consider a Chinese knockoff for a common roller bearing. I MIGHT buy one of these ball bearings in a cheapie as a temporary measure while I looked for a good NOS version at a reasonable price, especially with the outers which are naturally cheaper and less of a problem since they had such a wide application. But I think you will be stuck with the high $$$ inners.And everyone talking about the number stamped on the part is right, they are often a different number from the OEM catalog, but in this case it should be the same 909001 and 909002 that we have been discussing. Good luck and let us know, Todd CPS--removing and reinstalling the races will be easier and safer with a bearing driver kit if you do not already have one. Should be able to buy a Lisle version for $25 or so at the parts store. And remember when you remove them the car will be undriveable until they are replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 poci1957I just called the Pontiac parts place out in Ca., and the prices are still the same. $40 for the outers, and $45 for the inners. I pulled and re-pcvked the bearing a couple of years ago, and the balls are damaged. I was able to remove both without much problem. I also have NOS grease seals for the front, so these will come in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poci1957 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I would grab those suckers if I were you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I feel funny about asking this question, but since I don't know the answer, I'll ask. On the bearings, they are offered as a 3-piece set. OK, I know about the actual bearings and their race, but what is the 3rd part in the kit? What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I am curious about that too as I'm not familiar with early GM cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenHupp20 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 there might be a separate part number for the ball cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Henderson Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 The three parts are; the outer race, the caged ball bearing, and the inner race, which fits onto the spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 The three parts are; the outer race, the caged ball bearing, and the inner race, which fits onto the spindle.The inner race? That's funny, when I repacked my bearings a couple of years ago, I don't remember seeing this part. I believe that the bearings slid right onto the spindle. I am now wondering if maybe this part could be missing on my car? Now I am really confused. Did all these old cars have these 3 parts? I know that in the Pontiac Restoration parts catalog, they DO have them listed as a 3-piece set. Maybe this is why there is the damage on the originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Henderson Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Fear not. Your wheel wouldn't turn without the inner race being in place, it just didn't come off with the bearing because it stayed on the spindle. (Sometimes they don't want to come off, especially if they have spun and are scored or even friction welded onto the spindle). If stuck heating (the least necessary) assists in removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bofusmosby Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Than you. That's good to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Does anyone know the reasoning behind the ball brgs. on the front hub when almost all other makes used roller brgs.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poci1957 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Does anyone know the reasoning behind the ball brgs. on the front hub when almost all other makes used roller brgs.?Good question, I am not sure myself but if you see my parts interchange list you will see that GM used them widely for over 20 years. 1957 Pontiacs (and 1957 Chevys) still use the same part. As you said, most car guys would think that roller bearings were better, even then. Maybe it was because New Departure, the roller bearing specialist, was a GM division and needed something to do ? Anyway, like I said earlier, that is why these are harder to find now, seems they were sort of antiquated even then.Jim, Dave is right that the center cone is probably still in there. That inner race is necessary on ball bearing applications just by design of the assembly, the inner race is sort of built into roller bearing units. Good luck, Todd C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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