Guest CaptainGTX Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Have a question about the operation of the convertible top on this car. I would have posted in the Dodge / Dodge Bros. forum, but 95% of what's there pertains to older cars. I bought this car two years ago after 45 years in storage. It's all original, including top & interior. Have had it out the past two summers, and last year took a chance & put the top down. It has a power top which appears to be a screw-jack arrangement. Before first operating it I lubricated all hinge points, then lowered it with hand-assistance. It worked smoothly, no noises of concern - possibly a little slow, but this is my first convertible so I'm not sure how fast it should be. My question, before I take it out this spring, is whether I should do anything to the cylinders. There doesn't seem to be any way to lube them, short of dismantling. These cars, and I assume cylinders, are pretty rare & I don't want to take a chance damaging one.Did other Dodge cars or other makes use screw-type cylinders? If so, anyone have experience on what to do or not to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 So...do you have a shop manual? I would think that there would be something in there about the cylinders. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CaptainGTX Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 There's no mention of servicing the lift mechanism in the Shop Manual, just a few comments about replacing the cables if they break. I suspect Dodge didn't make them serviceable because they didn't envison the cars would still be in use some 58 years later.The lift system consists of a motor, two cables, two "transmission" units & two cylinders. I presume oil or a very light grease is used inside the components, and am wondering if anyone has knowledge or experiences that might keep me from damaging the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Be sure not to allow any of the top material between the folding links of the top frame when you lower the top. Pull the material out as you lower the top. Then roll it and tuck in the top well before installing the boot. The top will stack flatter and the material won't chafe. This was a recommended procedure for GM convertibles of the era. Your car is fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyler Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 captain, i have a 1954 chrysler convertible. the service manuals are also very short on info for the top mechanism. my car uses a hydraulic system so i cannot help you on the screw system you have. you might try calling hydro-e-electric in florida as they sell and rebuild the units you have. they advertise in hemmings but are also on line. nice car. mine was also in storage since 1985 when i bought it in 2006. i was afraid to put the original top down, but finally did and it is ok. too bad we couldn't cruise together. that would be a sight. skyler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I've checked a '41-'48 Chrysler shop manual and there is no mention of routine lubrication of the top screws. The main difference in this system (Town & Country) any your system seems to be the earlier cars used two electric motors, one on each screw. Yours appears to have one motor driving both screws through cables. The old grease in the drive and gear sets is most likely hard and should be cleaned out and replaced. The screws are covered in a canvas boot to keep the grease in and water out. I took them out of my '42 DeSoto several years ago because one side was not working. I found that water had gotten in the gear unit from the motor and screw and rusted. Cleaned it out, put in new grease and it works great. The units are not difficult to remove but you have to remove the rear seat and side panels. I don't remember exactly what lub I used, but I think it was a wheel bearing grease in the drive unit and a white lub on the screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CaptainGTX Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Thanks everyone for your replies. I probably won't put the top down for awhile, but when I do I'll keep these things in mind. I have to pick my times for putting it down, as I'm not sure how many more cycles the original top has left in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Why not just put the top down and leave it down until September or October? I put mine down a couple of weeks ago and won't put it up for several months unless I happen to get caught out in a storm which is unlikely.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikenbetts Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I have one of the remaining 1953 Dodge Coronet Convertibles with the 241 Red Ram Hemi. It was purchased new in New Jersey by my father (now deceased) and he and I turned it into a competitive NHRA drag car (N/S and M/SA) in the mid 1960's. We called it the Lambcharger! Those were the days of Dandy Dick Landy and the famous Ramcharger team who were running the big hemis with great success. The announcers of the day used to get a big kick out of our little Lambcharger with the baby ram under tht hood. We had a lot of fun with that car but sadly it has been sitting in our storage area open to the elements for over 40 years. Fortunately, I live in Arizona but the Lambcharger has been reduced to nothing but a shell with every piece of cloth/foam/and top almost completely disintegrated. The body has corrosion from its days in New Jersey and it is hard to imagine that anyone would be able to bring this ram back to life. Since it was a drag car, all of the undercoating, radio, heater, power top mechanism, etc. was removed in the 60's to lighten up the weight. However, almost all of the chrome and many of the valuable trim pieces are in great shape. A few years ago, my Dad hired a professional engine builder to rebuild the venerable hemi one last time because he had dreams of some day returning the Lambcharger to it's former glory. That engine rebuild was completed and the engine has been hanging from the hoist with zero miles ever since. As tempting as it is for me to consider trying to breathe life back into the Lamb I am not going to be able to do that. So, here's the question. There is a gentleman that has offered me $2500 for the 241. I know that is probably a little low for a "freshly" rebuilt 241 but Dad allowed the tape that was covering the spark plug ports to disintgrate so some water has entered the engine and a complete desassembly, cleaning and reassembly will be required. I am pretty sure the chrome pieces, mirrors, hub caps etc. that I have could bring a couple thousand dollars on ebay. I also have some transmissions and extra manifolds (2bbl, 4bbl, 3-2's), valve covers... I even have the original Ram hood ornament. I have the original hood but it has a big hole in it where we had our hood scoop. This will take some time and effort to market this stuff on ebay/swap meets/forums, etc but I am willing to do that if that is the smartest and most lucrative way to go. Bottom line I can sell the engine today for $2500 but I know it's not a good idea to seperate an original engine from its original chassis if there is any way that someone would buy the entire car and all of the parts that I have in one transaction. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CaptainGTX Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Hi Mike,First, would love to see photos of your car, both when it was racing and now.Second, I think $2500 for your rebuilt engine that need attention is probably not too bad a deal. These engines cost a lot to rebuild and yours might cost a fair amount to get running. It depends on the condition and also on whether it includes any of the speed equipment you mentioned. The baby hemis are not as popular as 354's and 392's and hence don't attract top money.Third, I'm all in favor of keeping these old cars stock, but if your body is as gone as you indicate, it sounds like rebuilding it back to original might be a lost cause. Going back to the way it was when raced might be easier, but might also be cost prohibitive. You probably know that convertibles and 2dr hardtops, along with 2dr wagons, were the only Dodge cars built on the short wheelbase. So if you start replacing body panels, you'll need one of those as a donor. As far as selling trim pieces, etc., while these cars are rare, there's also not much demand, so parts prices aren't as high as you'd expect. I have been able to find NOS parts in the event I ever do a restoration at fairly reasonable prices. And fourth, to my knowledge, the only way to link a particular engine to a chassis on these cars is by the build card. I obtained a copy of mine from Chrysler Historical archives. These cars have a vin, a body number (mine is #49 of 4,100 built) and an engine number. Don't remember right now about the transmission number, but I don't think any of them are tied to one another. So if the car is rebuildable, I'd still keep the engine with it. If not, I'd probably let them part company. Good luck with your car no matter which way you plan to go. Again, I'd sure like to see some photos.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikenbetts Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I don't have current photos but I can get some. I have attached one old polaroid picture from back in the day. Dad is at the wheel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikenbetts Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Some additional information. Our 53 Dodge was a light blue color with a white convertible top when it was new. Dad also had a search light on the car when it was new. I don't know if that was factory or aftermarket but it had a control handle that you could manipulate from the interior of the vehicle like what you might find on a police car. It did not become red until we started racing it. On on evening when had a few too many beers he came home with a huge bloody eyeball painted over the antennea mast so it appeared that the antennea was piercing the eyeball. Since this was our only car, mom was not thrilled with taking us to church with the bloody eyeball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Plymouth used the motor with the two drive cables also. Those cables are just oversized speedo cables so to speak. They are extremely hard to find and always have been. If one comes unraveled inside the cable housing you have a big problem getting the top up or down so you can continue to drive the car. You will have to manually turn the screw dive or disconnect both screw drives to get the top back up or down evenly. If you want to use the top you should service the top operating components and clean and lube the screw drives and cables. It's the cables that are the weak point in these types of top lifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CaptainGTX Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Well, the '53 Dodge top didn't operate last weekend for the first time. Just before I was to lead a parade of heritage Chrysler cars up pit road to honor Mopar's 75th anniversary at the NHRA Nationals at Bandimere Speedway near Denver, I tried to put the top down and - nothing. Dragsters were doing their thing in the background, so I couldn't hear if it was even trying. Guess I'll be doing some troubleshooting and this will be an opportunity to lube the system properly. Hopefully nothing irreplaceable broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CaptainGTX Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Wondered what mikenbetts did with his Lambcharger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lincoln54Capri Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Wondered what mikenbetts did with his Lambcharger?Send him a PM and ask him.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stutzl6 Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 pilot ray light need center housing that light pivots on. new casting or broken ,so i can cast them or any other parts THANKS JOHN cell 8608060448 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afxdragster Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 On 7/9/2012 at 7:47 PM, mikenbetts said: I don't have current photos but I can get some. I have attached one old polaroid picture from back in the day. Dad is at the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8E45E Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 On 2/24/2012 at 2:58 PM, CaptainGTX said: Did other Dodge cars or other makes use screw-type cylinders? If so, anyone have experience on what to do or not to do? Studebakers also used them on their '47-'52 convertibles. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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