Guest Recian Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Well a local yard finally has a 94 riv with a supercharged series1 like I've seen u guys putting in reattas. I dnt have the means to pull the engine atm I'm curious will the heads bolt to the pre series 3800 from a reatta? 88-90 engine? If so ill just buy the heads and supercharger then build my engine and trans from my parts car to take it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) Yes, they will bolt on. Actually, the supercharger will bolt to the earlier heads, but will need ports drilled for the integrated pcv system (easy). Read through old posts from F14 Crazy who did a similar swap of s/c to LN3 engine many years ago. The crank pulley needs a bit of modifying since the LN3 is slip fit and the latter is interference fit. Edited February 17, 2012 by 2seater (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Is it really possible to bolt a series 1 supercharger on a 88-90 Reatta engine? Where is the pulley going to go? :confused:Oh, and FYI, there was no '94 Riv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'm not sure if this would be needed to install the SC or not but I posted it on ReattaOwner.com for some reason. I must have thought it would be useful at the time...Throttle Cable Bracket Modification For SC Engine*-*ReattaOwner.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 95 riv. whatever. Bubble body riv how bout that and they look very similar as long as the intake will match up to the 88-90 heads without having issues with coolant jackets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 You do have to be a little careful with the year of the engine as that is getting close to where they changed to Series II, and that won't work. If the injectors are in the intake manifold, it should be okay. If they are located in the head, all bets are off.I haven't done this mod myself, but F14 (Phillip C.) has, and he wrote extensively about it. There is certainly more to it than just adding the stuff on top, but that was the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 ill check. Ive worked with series2's and i know this isnt a series2. It has the more squared supercharger where the series 2 had a longer one with 2 humps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Series 2 started in MY '96 and also brought the changeover to OBDII with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Series 2 started in MY '96 and also brought the changeover to OBDII with it.You have a '96 Reatta? That should be worth more than a Polo Green Convertible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 You have a '96 Reatta? That should be worth more than a Polo Green Convertible! MY = Model year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 MY = Model year. MY intention was to have some fun with Rawja. Thanks for trying to correct me. It's always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Got it. 27 bucks. It has the same sensors for coolant mac idle and tps as the reatta even the same fuel objectors just different fuel rail which I grabbed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wws944 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Warning that the L67 used lower compression pistons and stronger rods.CORRECTION: It seems that both LN3 and L67 are 8.5:1. It is the L27 that has higher compression. Edited February 18, 2012 by wws944 Corrected compression ratio. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I think you should ask Jon [63Viking] to weigh in. In my opinion he is the resident expert as he did the "swap" not installing a different engine. As a matter of fact he incouraged me to do it, but I don't feel confident enough mechanically to try it and don't want to use up my friends favors getting them involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Long run it will be alot cheaper and more reliable to get the full engine. Just read F14's, aka Philip's post on the top half conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) The thing i've been worried about is, bottom line i've got the supercharger and intake. Those usually go fast in the junkyard. The engine will be there awhile. That's the hard and expensive part to find. Ive already put more than enough overhauling this engine from ground up litterally so i do trust it to hold up as long as im not racing it daily. If i put another engine in the car it'll be just as nice as the one i've got so i'd probably end up buying a rebuilt supercharged 3800 long block which those dont come with manifolds. Worst comes to worst I can go to the yard and pull the heads (which appear to be the same supercharged and n/a and will have the series1 manifolds which has a diff port for EGR) and put them on a built LN3 bottom end which i have another one in my parts car I intend to yank and build. Does anyone know any links to the reviews that were written on making it work on the LN3 so i can see what all is involved first Edited February 18, 2012 by Recian (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Ive looked it over and found another guy on another GM site who did the supercharger on the LN3. He had a link to the aaca where he posted a forum about it but the link wasnt any good. Seems it can be done. I looked at the supercharger more today and for the electrical that's done. Simply extend the wiring and have the ECM flashed for the supercharger. The PCV seems simple. I'll just put a hole in the intake manifold where the LN3 PCV valve is and run it from there instead of using the series1's PCV ports in the head. There's just enough room on the manifold to do so. My other issues are EGR placement since it's front mount on the series1 and port matching. Im pretty sure the intake ports will match up i'll just need an old LN3 gasket to test it. Im thinking of relocating my EGR to the front but to do it i'd need to use the series1 manifolds/crossover pipe and im uncertain if they'll bolt on to the LN3 heads. Im thinking they will. Or, instead of that im considering since the EGR tube on both models is a metal with elbows in it (like the intake boot from the air box) that i can have another longer tube crafted the proper length and just bend it to fit and run it under the t-body and hook it into the factory spot on my rear manifold. Which case i'd still need another manifold since my egr tube is rusted into the manifold and rounded off. That takes care of the basic mounting and engine functionality. Next will be locating the alternator. The supercharger pulley will be where the alternator is now. I may return to the yard and get the alternator bracket from the series1 which i believe also holds the p/s pump. Both of these components need to be re-located to make it work and i believe since it runs 2 belts that maybe the crank pulley will be necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 thought I would add this for you.http://forums.aaca.org/f116/supercharging-time-its-real-211872.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 that's the link i was looking for. I got ahold of 63viking and found out what else i'll need to do in order to make it work. Seems pretty easy for the power gain you'll get out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spiering.lucas Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I think you will find that daniel is right and it is cheaper, easier, and more reliable to use the whole engine. They may look the same but the internals are most definetly not. WE have both done the series 1 S/C swap on our reattas. Words from experience also make sure you rebuild your supercharger, with whichever rout you decide to take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I intend to overhaul it first. A few questions tho which model number of eating supercharger is it and where can you find full rebuild kits? All I can get is snout kits. I wana replace the needle bearings in the back too. They're making some noise. I also want to separate the veins and clean them but I can't see how the gears come out. A thourough cleaning for mine is long overdue. The throttle body was stuck shut with a 1/2 in of carbon. It took quite a few hours to clean the whole thing out and I had to take a small ball hone to get all the buildup off the housing inside the supercharger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Stage 1 is an Eaton M62 Supercharger. Parts are available for it. I will have to look-up where I got mine. It is wise to clean it and rebuild it you will need bearings, a coupler and the rear neelde bearings. Also special oil for it when you put it back together. The impellers have teflon on them, so treat them with care when cleaning. You will also need a special tool to remove the needle bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Definately let me know. My engine is 100% redone id hate to put something not rebuilt on it. Have u dealt with gm superchargers before? All they do is rebuild eatons. Is rather rebuild mine myself as soon as I figure out what tools I need. Then I could bead blast and paint it what color I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 You can find all of your Supercharger parts on E-Bay. Search for supercharger % Parts and then cut it to Eaton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) needle bearings are available for the M62 for under 20 bucks. That's about the only needle bearings available on ebay lol. The snout rebuild kits list every other eaton like this one exept M62. M112, M90 and M45. It looks like some of the 90 and 45 parts are the same between them. Im thinking what im gona need to replace those needle bearings. I can see theyre press in so going in wont be a problem, getting em out without damaging the bore may be tricky. Arent there front bearings on the rotors? Ive been looking it all day scratching my head to see how i get the rotors out of the plate lol Edited February 24, 2012 by Recian (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spiering.lucas Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Eaton M90/M62 Supercharge series I and II. - YouTubeThis video should help you. This guy has a large number of videos about building and taking care of your supercharger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 If you turn the Supercharger up side down you will notice two holes right where the needle bearings are. You tap the holes, get yourself a bolt to fit and drill a hole down the center of the bolt. Tap threads for a grease fitting in the head of the blot and screw it in. Thread in the bolt and attach a grease gun. The grease will force the bearing out. (Easy) To install fit the new bearings on the ends of the impellers and drop the assembly into the supercharger housing, tap the bearings into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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