Jump to content

1990 Reatta teves brake unit!


Buick City
 Share

Recommended Posts

The brakes work most of the time,but when the red light comes on I have to stop and hit the pressure switch to get the motor to pump up the pressure! I replaced the pressure switch ( a used one ) about 2,000 miles ago,and it worked fine ( untill now ) I read the manual and it said the motor was not serviceable. I thought maybe the armature had a bad spot, and when I hit it I dont know if its in the switch,or motor? After I turn off the key and pump the brakes 25 times the motor still wont start pumping till I hit it. I have a 1989 Reatta also and if the light comes on it always works good after pumping 25 times ,and turning on the key! Any sugestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might try switching the relays on the firewall (in the center of the firewall there are two identical relays) The one on the passanger side is for the motor, it is possible that hitting the motor is enough to jar the relay.

You can also pull the plug on the motor and check for 12V going to the motor, if there is no voltage, then it is probably the relay. Then with jumpers from the battery, put power directly to the pump motor, if it does not run then it is bad.

All the factory literature says that the motor and pump body cannot be serviced seperately.

It may be that the parts are dimensionally selected for a good fit (clearance) but some Reatta owners here have replaced just the motor with success.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The most common part to go bad in your case is the pressure switch. The one you put on could be bad again as they do leak brake fluid into the contact area and cause problem. A check you can do is remove the connector and look inside near the five pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid in there the switch is bad.

The pump/motor can also be bad and this is common also but not as common as the pressure switch. Because the pump runs a lot, like you said, the brushes can be bad, and tapping on the motor sometimes will get the pump to run but this tapping also can make the contacts in the pressure switch also work if the switch is bad.

I have both tested good pressure switches and pump/motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have been selling Reatta parts for about 12 years and my prices are considerably lower than any of the other sellers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mc_Reatta

A simple check with a voltmeter will tell you if its the switch, pump or relay. Then your not shotgunning parts and money at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The most common part to go bad in your case is the pressure switch. The one you put on could be bad again as they do leak brake fluid into the contact area and cause problem. A check you can do is remove the connector and look inside near the five pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid in there the switch is bad.

The pump/motor can also be bad and this is common also but not as common as the pressure switch. Because the pump runs a lot, like you said, the brushes can be bad, and tapping on the motor sometimes will get the pump to run but this tapping also can make the contacts in the pressure switch also work if the switch is bad.

I have both tested good pressure switches and pump/motors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have been selling Reatta parts for about 12 years and my prices are considerably lower than any of the other sellers.

Just don't tell Jim you are a Packer fan [if you are] then you are sure to pay more. I even told him I once was a Viking fan but that didn't make a difference.

Right now I am waiting for a price from him on a part I need, and have called the bank to arrange financing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:) I just wanted to thank everyone for your helpfull sugestions! My brakes work fine now! I did all the tests ,also the older post from Barney about the accumulator test ( I had only a 1/4" drop in fluid ). It turned out to be something simple that didn't cost me anything! I took the relay off and sanded the blades with #600 sandpaper,and did the same to the wire socket. I put it back,and turned the key on,and it pumped up without any help!I did the pump-up test ( key on - motor off ) and I could hear the pump working each time I pushed the brake. I took it on a 25 mile test drive,and everything worked as it should! THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:) I just wanted to thank everyone for your helpfull sugestions! My brakes work fine now! I did all the tests ,also the older post from Barney about the accumulator test ( I had only a 1/4" drop in fluid ). It turned out to be something simple that didn't cost me anything! I took the relay off and sanded the blades with #600 sandpaper,and did the same to the wire socket. I put it back,and turned the key on,and it pumped up without any help!I did the pump-up test ( key on - motor off ) and I could hear the pump working each time I pushed the brake. I took it on a 25 mile test drive,and everything worked as it should! THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!

Well, just an FYI, the pump shouldn't come on every time you push the brake. Thats a sure sign of a bad accumulator. A good one should give you 2-4 pumps before the pump comes on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I helped a Reatta owner with some repairs this Wednesday and we did a brake test.

The fluid level change in his resevoir was about 3/4 of an inch, I expected the pump to start with the first application of the brake pedal, but the pump did not turn on until the second pump of the pedal. He has ordered a new accumulator and we will replace that when it arrives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:) Thanks again for your input,and advice! I replaced the accumulator,with another one I had,and after doing the brake test again,I had 3/8 drop in fluid,and the motor didn't come on untill the third pump,and the red brake light didn't flash on when I touched the brake ( like it did before ) Took it for a test ride and everything worked as it should. THANKS AGAIN ! Now I will also replace the accumulator on my "89" which I now know is going bad. It has 230,000 miles on it and as far as I know it hasn't been replaced!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...