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Need 1989 buying advice.


Bushwack

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Looked at an '89 to purchase and found some issues. I was wondering if these are easy/simple/affordable to repair.

- Switch that turns off headlights must be hit hard to turn off. Otherwise, the parking lights remain on (no issues with the headlight motors or arms). I assume the contact is bad. Is this part readily available (anyone...anyone??) and is it difficult to replace?

- The monitoring screen is sharp and touch sensitive, but the bottom 20% portion is intermittently 'squiggly' and continues up to the top of the screen. As I said, its an intermittent occurrence. Is this an early sign of the monitor going bad or is there an adjustment to be made via the touch screen?

Lastly, this is the car I referred to in an earlier thread about a salvage title. Upon my lame attempt at inspection, all the VIN labels are still intact, all body panels/original paint seem...original. Interior also is original. Looking under the hood, I couldn't see any frame damage nor did I see anything crawling under the rear of the car (I was limited to what I can inspect). I was informed that the California DMV does NOT require a Salvage certificate to accompany title (unlike many other states but I haven't looked into this yet myself). Can anyone think of other means to find out why a car has a salvage title beyond comments from AutoCheck or Carfax?

Thanks.

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On the CRT, it sounds like the horizontal oscillator circuit going bad. I have one exhibiting the same behavior the OP describes. This will require component level repair to correct. Used working CRT's can be picked up; in most cases for less than the cost of repair. Do not discard the failing CRT though, you may want to have it repaired and keep for a spare.

KDirk

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Headlight switch is easy to remove.. easier than the later cars if you ask me.

I don't know if my car is normal or not, but in regards to turning off the lights.. When I have the headlight on, to turn them off, I can't just hit the "Lights Off" button. I have to hit the parking light button first, then the lights off button..

Maybe my car is just a misfit (wouldn't surprise me), but this if my experience.

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Thanks all for your input. Very much appreciated!!!

I did just e-mail an offer to the seller. If it turns out in my favor, you can count on more questions coming your way. :)

..and again thanks to Ronnie for his great site. Priceless!

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- Switch that turns off headlights must be hit hard to turn off. Otherwise, the parking lights remain on (no issues with the headlight motors or arms). I assume the contact is bad. Is this part readily available (anyone...anyone??) and is it difficult to replace?

Thanks.

When I got my '88 in 2007 I had the same problem with buttons sticking. On the advice of another forum member (Howard) I took a can of WD40, with the thin red tube that you can attach to the nozzle, and sprayed in the gap between all of the headlamp switch buttons while pushing them on and off several times. To date, I've never had the problem again. You can also spray the dimmer slider and move it back and forth to make it work better as well. Be sure to put an old towel or something over the carpet below the switch to protect it from drips.

Contact cleaner might work but some types of it can damage plastic parts.

I have not added this information to my website because there is a slight possibility of a spark from the contacts in the switch igniting the WD40 and causing a fire. Disconnect the battery before you spray the switch to eliminate that possibility. Don't reconnect the battery until the flammable solvent in the WD40 has had ample time to evaporate. I let mine dry overnight.

I'm glad you like the website. I hope you use it often.

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I'll second Ronnie's advice. Also exercising the switch occasionally.. I usually run the fogs first then go to headlights when needed, as a result the parking light portion of the switch never gets used. I had an issue with the dash backlighting turning off when I'd switch to brights, exercising the headlamp switch by cycling it through its paces cured the problem. You can use the lamp retract switch to prevent excessive cycling of the headlamp retract motors when doing this.

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Glad to know my advice is still being used after all these years. It never occurred to me about the possibility of a fire. I used the WD 40 on the headlight switch for a different reason other than the one stated. I was having an issue the panel lights and CRT dimming when the lights were on. I applied the WD40 once and never had an issue with the switch for the next 9.5 years. As far as the Salvage Title, I vote for flood. The insurance totaled the car out for some reason. Flood, fire, or accident. If you cannot find any body repair, then flood is the only logical explanation. Of course, these cars are getting older, and it is possible that something very minor happened to the car and the insurance company simply totaled the car rather than fixing it.

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Glad to know my advice is still being used after all these years. It never occurred to me about the possibility of a fire. I used the WD 40 on the headlight switch for a different reason other than the one stated. I was having an issue the panel lights and CRT dimming when the lights were on. I applied the WD40 once and never had an issue with the switch for the next 9.5 years. As far as the Salvage Title, I vote for flood. The insurance totaled the car out for some reason. Flood, fire, or accident. If you cannot find any body repair, then flood is the only logical explanation. Of course, these cars are getting older, and it is possible that something very minor happened to the car and the insurance company simply totaled the car rather than fixing it.

That made me think of something... It's possible the windshield broke, and the owner had glass coverage. The glass cost more than the insurance thought it was worth, so they totaled it. Owner bought it back, and put some new glass in himself.

Just a thought..

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Guest Richard D
I'll second Ronnie's advice. Also exercising the switch occasionally.. I usually run the fogs first then go to headlights when needed, as a result the parking light portion of the switch never gets used. I had an issue with the dash backlighting turning off when I'd switch to brights, exercising the headlamp switch by cycling it through its paces cured the problem. You can use the lamp retract switch to prevent excessive cycling of the headlamp retract motors when doing this.

Here in The Sunshine State during the wet season (now) whenever it rains I turn on the foglights, which also turns on the tail lights, side marker, etc. That way I exercise the fog light switch and if I forget them on when I park the key switch turns them off.

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