Guest Recian Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 group vote:ive got my 89s engine out and stripped to a bare block. no components or plugs. i have to put new pistons in it too since #6 was cracked. im gona probably spend about 500 in machine work on the block and a good 600 for a rebuild kit with pistons. my dilemma is:brass or rubber freeze plugs. rubber is good for in the car repair but it seems to me brass will be better in my situation and its more durable as long as the hole isnt wallowed out to the point where the plug wont stay in.whats you guys' opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 (edited) Brass. Apply permetex around the sealing surface of the plug (not the inside of the hole) before you drive it into a clean hole. Drive it straight in with a tool made for the job or a large socket that just fits into the plug. Don't use anything that just hits the center of the plug. Do not allow it to rock going in. Rubber was not intended to be permanent. I'm sure you already know this since you are a technician at a dealership but you asked for opinions. Edited August 31, 2011 by Ronnie Meant to say opinions instead of options (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booreatta Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Brass. Apply permetex around the sealing surface of the plug (not the inside of the hole) before you drive it into a clean hole. Drive it straight in with a tool made for the job or a large socket that just fits into the plug. Don't use anything that just hits the center of the plug. Do not allow it to rock going in. Rubber was not intended to be permanent. I'm sure you already know this since you are a technician at a dealership but you asked for options.Totally agree with Ronnie on this one, brass is the ONLY WAY TO GO. Rubber is a waste of timeChuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I always use brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 thats what i was thinking just thought id ask for 2nd opinions first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Definitely brass. Do the ones in the back inside the bellhousing area too. No headaches for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Brass without a doubt. They lasted 20 years already, right? And some of those years were very high abuse years. Rubber is only for in car repairs, like you said. While you've got everything out, do it right.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 That's my plans but looking at costs it'll be about 600 for a rebuild kit since i need pistons. 500 or so for all th block work that needs to be done assuming there's no cracks. There was an inch of copper in the pan from just 40 miles of driving and coolant in the oil. For 1500-1700 I can get a rebuilt engine with 3yr warranty so i think i'll spend the extra and be safe. I found this out today after calling the machine shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 That's my plans but looking at costs it'll be about 600 for a rebuild kit since i need pistons. 500 or so for all th block work that needs to be done assuming there's no cracks. There was an inch of copper in the pan from just 40 miles of driving and coolant in the oil. For 1500-1700 I can get a rebuilt engine with 3yr warranty so i think i'll spend the extra and be safe. I found this out today after calling the machine shopYou stated earlier that you already had the heads reworked. What are you getting for the $500 block work? I would magnaflux for cracks, check/alignbore, check rods for out of round, ridge ream/hone the block and put a crank kit in it. $500 seems high but I've not priced work like that for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 hes gona hot tank it to remove all the dirt in the coolant jackets. he'll replace the cam/balance shaft bearings, shave the decks and pull the old wrist pins and put them in new pistons/rods then magnaflux for cracks. My dilemma is why waste 300-500 bucks on the block and he calls me up and says "hey man you got a crack that we cant fix" then im out the money i could have put towards a new long block. I have an extreme coolant/oil mixture and remember the car ran so hot it stopped running and i kept pushing it for 2 miles til i got home while it rattled its ass off. There's over 1/2" copper layer in the bottom of the pan (after driving only 40 miles from home to work after i cleaned the pan once before) and the crank has some grooves in it so the crank may need to be ground or replaced. That's anywhere from 125-200. I figured i dont wana get so far into it i'll have something worse off for more $$ than a reman engine with 3yr warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If I recall correctly you also have a bad transmission. To me there are only two logical choices for you with a car that has high miles and needs body work and paint.1. Find a good engine/transmission out of a low mileage Buick that will drop right in and get you back on the road. There are lots of good 3800s out there at low cost that will last longer than you will care to own the Reatta.2. Sell your car for a parts car and find another Reatta that needs very little work. You can do that for the price of all the repairs on your car.Don't take this as me telling you what to do. After all it's your money. I'm just telling you what makes good economic sense any way you look at it. If you want to prove to the world that you are able to revive a Reatta who's time has come then by all means go for it but you may regret it for the reasons that are now making you second guess your thinking on doing all that engine work... Especially since you have so much more costly work to do after the engine is rebuilt. Just my 2¢ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I remember you want to keep the car for sentimental reasons, that's great. But like Ronnie said go used. Try car-part.com They have a number of engines/transmissions in N.C. for cheap, already pulled, all you have to is reinstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If you wanna come up here, I've got a whole power train that you can have for $200. It's still in that parts car I've got, but when I started it up, it ran good. I didn't test the transmission extensively, just what it took to move it around the yard. I'll even be a pal and help you pull it out! Looks like you're pretty deep into your project here, but if you want it, just let me know. Oh, and Dave, I'm still working on your WSSs. Sorry it's taking so long.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) ive already got the tranny coming. Transmissions make a big difference on vehicle's torque output and get up and go. Im not really second guessing im just being cautious since it overheated it could have a cracked block now. The engine is my conscern. I just want one with zero miles basically. Something that wont burn oil or need anything anytime soon. I figure with a new one i could actually get the 17/27 that's advertised for mpg. I'll put a used engine in a customer's car at work but that's an 02-11 model and most of them have less than 75k miles that i put in the cars. Not a 20 year old 89. Age does have an effect on the engine. Most of that site's engines are 400-550 and have between 74 and 125k How does that one you have work NC? no issues with the engine. What's the details? miles etc Edited September 1, 2011 by Recian (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Other than cam bearings in some 90s the 3800 is probably the most reliable engine GM has built. If you go reman, I'd look for one of the GM factory remaned engines, there may still be some C 3800s around.Used to be one floating around Orlando but looked like it had been left out in the rain - figured I'd need to reman the reman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wws944 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If you want newer, consider looking for a (supercharged) L67 out of a '94-'95 Park Ave Ultra. It is apparently almost a bolt-in upgrade. And IMO, more fun for the same or less dinero - unless you really want a 'numbers matching' engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 ive already got the tranny coming. Transmissions make a big difference on vehicle's torque output and get up and go. Im not really second guessing im just being cautious since it overheated it could have a cracked block now. The engine is my conscern. I just want one with zero miles basically. Something that wont burn oil or need anything anytime soon. I figure with a new one i could actually get the 17/27 that's advertised for mpg. I'll put a used engine in a customer's car at work but that's an 02-11 model and most of them have less than 75k miles that i put in the cars. Not a 20 year old 89. Age does have an effect on the engine. Most of that site's engines are 400-550 and have between 74 and 125k How does that one you have work NC? no issues with the engine. What's the details? miles etcMiles are right around 123k. The few times I've started it, it's been a little slow to start, but it was sitting for 3 years before I picked it up, and it was really low on gas. Absolutely no leaks at all. Even after sitting for as long as it has, the radiator was still full. Oil is right where it should be too. Idles great, no hiccup or anything. If I had a good head on my shoulders (which we all know I don't, I mean hey, I have Reattas, right ), I'd pull the engine myself and stick in in my 89.. I just cant put my car OOC like that for the time it would take. And im about as far from being able to preform a job like that in my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) If i were to consider a suprcharged what modifications would i need to do to make it run and which vehicles can i get supercharged 3800s from (not series2) Edited September 1, 2011 by Recian (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 92-94 Park Avenue Ultra had OBD1. Would need a custom PROM to feed the right data stream for the BCM. Major difference is EGR is analog and MAF needs a different map.I have some .bins for the 88/SC/Getrag but would have to ask Greg which he wound up using (know one was too aggressive but generated several). Ryan probably has more recent knowlege. Except for diesels, I avoid boosted engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I can get a used 3800 for about $450 with 74k miles and a used supercharged from a ultra for about 550-600 with about 125k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I can get a used 3800 for about $450 with 74k miles and a used supercharged from a ultra for about 550-600 with about 125kGet the S/C. It'll be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I can get a used 3800 for about $450 with 74k miles That would be my choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 From a previous thread, it sounded like you were considering doing a performance upgrade, so the S/C engine seems like a natural. I don't know of any way to upgrade performance of a N/A engine for the relatively small difference in price (maybe nitrous). There will be some programming issues to deal with, but that would be true for any upgrade, and the S/C installation has a fair amount of support. The S/C may need some service if it is still original. Ryan @ Sinister Performance/GMTuners does lots of this type of installation into Fiero's and can certainly help with the programming. My $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 A Reatta with a boosted engine will never be as fast as a Fiero with the same engine and Fieros are still dirt cheap. Any daily driver I have must run on 87 PON. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 i was going to do a sc. but for 600 i can get a used engine and gaskets and freeze plugs for it. id have to spend more for a sc and id rather live within my means and get back on the road sooner. my boss is driving me up the wall and i wana leave so without a car thats kinda tough.. atm im riding with a friend to work but were 40 miles away. i wana work in town again. tired of getting up at 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I would not know how to live without spares, think you need a Fiero. Later 4 cyl/5 speed is best for commuting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) haha yeah i'd love one but theyre harder to come by than reattas in this area believe it or not lol. Also im not really building a commuter since once this car is done im getting a job in town and quitting this bs job im at now. The getting up at 6am to drive 2hrs a day and work a 12 hour shift ontop of that just to get blamed for everything in the shop that i have nothing to do with when im the one that keeps that business running because the other techs sit on their butts all day is getting old. Sucks they sold that engine i had lined up. It was on hold but the person who had it on hold came in at the last second and bought it so my next step is one in Kinston with 102k for the same price. I'd really like to get around 75-90k not much over. Edited September 3, 2011 by Rawja (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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