Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Hello everyone, Looking for some advice to make this a smooth procedure. I have the shop manual but it is a bit hard to translate on this subject. I am pulling the engineand tranny to have the tranny rebuilt. Engine is going to be checked over any leaks repaired, etc..etc...as it runs smooth. Could someone explain step by step about the part explaining backing the rear differential up about 4 inches. I just want to make sure I do this right. The guy rebuilding it is picking it up and he will be coming back to help me put it back in correctly. Any cautions or words of advice on this? By the way, how heavy is a 1956 super dynaflow?Thanks,Jason:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Jason, this article by Bill Bicknell aka Professor Nailhead should be a big help for what you're doing. PULLING A '54 NAILHEAD by Professor Nailhead. Please feel free to join us there and ask questions if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 By the way, a 1956 Dynaflow is entirely too heavy for one person to lift. I don't know what it weighs, but my guess is around 250 pounds or more.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 53Nailhead Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 I've been accused of a lot of things...smart's not one of'em :confused:I removed the hood, rad & supports & pulled the tranny & the nailhead together & separated them on the ground...worked for me.Strong like bull, smart like tractor............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) Yep it can be done with the right tools......me, I got this nice rolling gantry from work. I had to take it all out as one due to the fact that she was ceased. I had to take the crank out to be able to turn it to remove the torque converter bolts from the flywheel....boy those Dynaflows sure like to bleed after surgery eh. Edited March 6, 2011 by stealthbob (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 How timely. I've just been going over the shop manual forward and backward, trying to figure out this procedure. Could it be that GM first wrote these things in some other language and then translated them to English? My experience working on Chrysler products of the '50s was not hampered by such loopy language. Their manuals were models of clarity.In their quest for Longer, Lower, Wider, Buick could very well have made this process more difficult in 1957. If anyone's aware of any complications engineered into the '57 (and the '58, being very similar), please let us know. The Prof's notes about particular bolt locations are godsends, I would think. Thanks again to Professor Gearhead and to Mr. Earl for sending this along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I don't remember where I read it, but the torque converter is balanced with the engine during manufacture. So mark the relationship of the torque converter to the flywheel before disassembly.Also I would offer that pulling the engine and tranny in one piece is an option but I would drop the tranny before pulling the engine. It just takes a lot of the weight off and eliminates the need to drastically angle the load to get the transmission to pass the firewall. Plus you still need access to the bottom inspection plate area to get the bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. Once you have that done the other bolts holding the tranny on are accessible from the top and bottom. And you can use a transmission jack to lower the transmission safely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I don't remember where I read it, but the torque converter is balanced with the engine during manufacture. So mark the relationship of the torque converter to the flywheel before disassembly.Yes this is true...good etiquette is to always mark anything that rotates as you take it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 JohnD,What about the torque converter being balanced to the engine? Was this also the case for 1957 as well? What would happen if one put it in but didn't have it lined up to the balance point? This causes me some concern, since in 1990 when I pulled the engine, I had the shop manual, but it doesn't cover that and also had the trans rebuilt in 2006 and again not sure if the shop I took it to knew that either. Any ideas out there about this and its effects? Sure would like to know.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I think I read it in the service bulletins for 56. Unsure about the other years. The 56 Manual has a few steps outlined to balance the torque converter if need be but it's mostly a hit and miss operation. I was thinking of rotating my own converter to flywheel connection. When I got the car I pulled the engine without knowing about this and later I had the transmission rebuilt too. My engine has a slight vibration at higher RPM's which it does not have at idle, so I was thinking I would try to turn the torque converter 180 degrees. But when I looked in there last summer I thought it would not rotate unless separated from the flywheel enough to let the drain plugs pass the flywheel holes. Ultimately after dealing with ignition issues the vibration is so minimal, and I use the car so infrequently I decided to leave well enough alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Both the engine and transmission were balanced, but not together since they were assembled at different factories. You do need to mark the earlier dynaflow torque converter if disassembled. The early dynaflow will bolt up one of three ways, but if the drain holes are lined up there is only one possible way. You could balance the torque converter with the engine, but you would have to disassemble to remove from the transmission, assemble, then bolt to flywheel/flexplate, then when balanced reverse the procedure.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Strong like bull, smart like tractor............Ow...biting tongue hurts!There were a lot of farmers of Ukrainian descent where I grew up...that phrase in my head always comes out with a Ukrainian accent...think Nestor Pistor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 53Nailhead Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Ow...biting tongue hurts!There were a lot of farmers of Ukrainian descent where I grew up...that phrase in my head always comes out with a Ukrainian accent...think Nestor Pistor....Exactly....a Croatian forming contractor I used to hire (since retired) used this phrase often when talking to his crew Man those guys could work!!!!!!!Now back to the topic....I mark everything with nail polish.....the girls ain't so happy with this practice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks John and Willie.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Thanks for all the tips guys. I am prepping for tomorrow morning. Will betaking the tranny out. Taking it next week to have it rebuilt. I will follow up and let you know the progression.Jason56 ' Buick Super 2dr hardtop56' Plymouth Belvedere 4dr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 ....with pics please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Man, this has turned into a project...lol. everything is unhooked. I still have to get a few tricky upper bell housing bolts out. Having issues sliding torque tube out. The way it is set up I can't hook to frame support in front of the rear bumper. I put a come along on it and the only place to go safely is under the spare tire compartment of trunk. The holes that I can hook to are on the ends and middle of the bumper. In the middle, I would crush into the gas tank, same on the left side. I attached some anchors to the sill plate in garage wall and they can't hold it without pulling out of the wall. I can only pull the torque tube about 2 " out of the torque ball. The car is about 19 3/4" off the ground on modified ramps and heavy duty jack stands waiting to be finished. Any suggestions on backing the torque tube out? Tranny jack and engine jack are in place and I would really like to complete this tranny drop without removing the engine. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 My wife had what could be a marvelous idea. She said, "what if you remove the shocks?" I figure this can't hurt and they need to be replaced anyway. This should allow less restriction when backing the rear end up. I will give this a try later in a few days, working this weekend. I will follow up and keep everyone posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 JasonThe shocks are different on my 55's, but I do have to disconnect the links and remove the panhard bar. I wrap chain around the torque tube just in front of the where the strut rods attach, then using a bumper jack (without the base) in the pocket of the X-frame, jack against the chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Nice one Willie....made a mental note on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 When I did this years ago, I disconnected everything to the torque tube assembly, shocks, springs, panhard bar, flex brake line and parking brake attachment bolt, then I dropped the car till the tires were on the ground and rolled the rear axle back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Okay folks, Operation complete, Dynaflow is on the jack stand and waiting to be transported for rebuild. I will make several notes on this and will write a complete how to as in, "Removing Dynaflow for Dummies." lol There are several things I found work much better than what you see in the book and the bumper jack idea was awesome worked like a charm. I will make prep notes as to the easiest way to do this step by step in hindsight. First off 20" clearance uhm only if you are dragging it out on a 2" tall jack. Measure the lowered height of your transmission jack and add the Dynaflow height which I will insert. I found that I had to get quite inventive at times to get my height etc. Unhook the brake line and the emergency brake assembly. In hindsight it is not required but I would disconnect the rear sway bar. Thank you all for your help and support. I have pictures also but have not figured out how to add them yet. I will again write up a step by step by step with all the tips and tricks of what you have helped me with here and what I found on my own during this procedure. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Great news!I would love to see your pics though, I would like to help ya there.I think we have a how to for that, if not I will make one and link it.Off to work though....late, late, late Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1956 Nailhead Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Okay, All I can say is wow....Dynaflow rebuilt not even a week. The front pump was gone and it was cheap. Anyone around Virginia who wants a transmission rebuilt for all older cars I can put you onto someone. He has been doing transmission work for 56 years and he hasn't lost a step. I am going to pick this up soon. He is in Chesapeake, Va and he is retired now but wants transmission work because he loves doing it. Below you will find his information.Eddie Card1-757-855-0229 He is a super nice guy and very straight forward. He said no one knows how to work on the old ones anymore but he has been doing this since the 50's so if you need one rebuilt give him a call.Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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