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28-58 trying to make her roll


Barnbikes

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This is one of those wayyyyy out of the box ideas, but I used it to load an antique tractor one time that had no wheels.

Have you ever seen someone raise and move a house?

1. Buy (2) 6"x6"x12' pressure treated beams and 24 concrete blocks at Home Depot.

2. Borrow some jacks. Automotive floor jacks work fine. 2 are enough, 4 are better.

3. Slide one beam under the car behind the front wheels.

4. Slide the second beam in front of the rear wheels

5. Place a cement block under the end of each beam.

6. Begin jacking up the beams and adding cement blocks until the wheels are higher than your trailer floor.

7. Warning! Do not under any circumstances get under the car during the jacking proceedure!

8. Back your trailer in under the car.

9. Place one of those rollers with casters ( That Michael mentioned) under each rear wheel

10. Reverse the jacking proceedure. Lower the car onto the rollers and remove the blocks.

11.When you get home roll your new prize off the trailer into the garage on those rollers under the rear wheels! (You can steer with the front wheels. They should roll easily)

12. Most important! Save the beams and concrete blocks. You will need them to build another garage when your wife gets tired of that buick that you love so much in HER garage!:mad:

Dwight

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  • 2 weeks later...

What do you have available to you? A tractor makes really easy work of pulling a car onto a trailer. If you are sure things are in neutral and brakes not accidentally applied, the wheels may break free. Second best is a strong electric winch. Worst case, a come-along, but that is a lot more work.

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Right now we have the front wheels jacked about a foot in the air - plan on backing the trailer ramps as far back as they will go and using a 2 ton come-along the rest of the way. Hoping the weight and pulling will make the wheels break loose and roll.

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Guest kaycee

Another comment, the clutch wo'nt affect the steering or front wheels from turning. Looks like a serious rust problem.

:(kaycee

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I have the main brake adjusters loosened as far as they will go but I was nerves about trying to loosen the 3 small holders when I was working on it out in the weeds. Brake bands have about .250" gap under the adjusters but they are stuck tight at the bottom of the wheels.

I have am guessing the parking brake is rusted tight also.

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Think I might go this way.

racer.jpg

Wow, I can't believe you found a photo of that car over there in the USA.

I helped build it back in the early 1990's and it was built up from left over parts from my restoration of a 1928 Standard Roadster ( the one in my signature photo ).

It was built as a replica of a 28 Buick used to race in Kalgoorlie Western Australia in the late 1920's.

The replica was used in historic racing events ( and still is by the current owner ). The mudguards were required for road use but have a fast release system so the car is used as an " open wheeler " for racing.

The original car held some speed records in it's time.

I'll attach a couple more photos of the same car and the original it replicates.

post-31244-143138250054_thumb.jpg

post-31244-143138250057_thumb.jpg

post-31244-14313825006_thumb.jpg

post-31244-143138250064_thumb.jpg

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That's cool Stuart. I must admit I find the action photos a bit odd - an open old car like that and wearing a modern full face helmet....

The full face helmet is required by C.A.M.S. ( the local racing authority ) and is exacerbated by my mate being 6' 7'' - wouldn't look so bad if he was only 5'

6''. but I do agree - looks odd.

Even though it is not yet mandatory a lot of our historic race cars now have roll cages fitted which looks even worse.

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