My next project? 1921 Packard Coupe.

[oldcar]

Thank you David

I have just had a quick look, it is now dark and raining but it is exactly where you say and I can see where it is supposed to hook onto the lever. Another job for the morning.

Cheers

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

At last after some hour or so of standing on my head, I have the throttle return spring attached. To meet with modern safety requirements I will probably have to fit a second spring somewhat closer to the carburettor.

Bernie J.

Edited June 30, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Ozstatman]

At last after some hour or so of standing on my head, I have the throttle return spring attached...

Bernie,

I thought that was quite normal. After all, we are down-under!

[oldcar]

Thanks Mal

In actual fact I have now discovered that the spring I have is way too heavy. Once I find another the correct length and strength you will have to come down and help me install it.

Bernie J.

[Guest 1928Packard526]

Bernie —

The approach that Packard used for the throttle return function appears to be rather sophisticated. I like it. I have always found Packard engineering to be remarkable and solidly direct. Unfortunately such innovation doesn't always sell well. I guess they proved that.

Pete P.

[oldcar]

Pete

The one problem they had was that they did not have the Germans to rescue them unlike Rolls Royce and Bentley. If it is of any consolation Packard lasted longer than any other fully independent American quality car manufacturer.

Bernie J.

Edited June 30, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

My UK based friend Anthony Bryant who looks at this thread from time to time has sent me these photographs of the Packard ignition & lighting switch from an early series car. If anyone is interested in buying it I can put them in touch with Anthony

[oldcar]

As stated on 1162 I have now fitted the second throttle return spring as required under the Confederation of Australian Motor Sport (CAMS) requirements. This is required to have a direct action on to the throttle butterfly shaft. Not that I intend to be racing the Packard but I still think that a second return spring is a good investment in safety.

Edited July 3, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest 1928Packard526]

Bernie —

Your "engineering" and the execution evident in your last photo is a match for Packard's. The photo also answers my puzzlement on why that vertical linkage piece looked so different in the photo I sent you. It is different, having a more modern ball and socket type joint rather than the clevis connection used everywhere else. That change in type is puzzling. More modern replacement part perhaps?

Pete P.

[oldcar]

Hi Pete

As you say probably a "modern" replacement and to a degree ignorance of what was missing when I first acquired the Packard. Being used to 1930s British cars I simply used the ball and socket type without giving it much thought. If it was felt to be important to the cars "originality" I can very easily source suitable yoke and clevis pin joints It only takes time and $$$$.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

Another day and a little more progress. My friendly pin-striper Simon has spent four hours applying his skill to the Packard. I will let you judge the results for yourselves. Personally I am delighted with his efforts.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Very nice! I can do many things, but I cannot do that.

[Landman]

I'm with Roger on that. Pinstriping is in a class by itlself as far as skills go. Beautiful work!!!

[JV Puleo]

Ball and socket fittings very similar, if not absolutely identical, were offered in US accessory catalogs as early as 1910...

[oldcar]

Hi All

I am delighted with the job that Simon has done with the pin striping. Re: the offending throttle linkage, I started to fabricate the correct clevis pin linkage yesterday afternoon. Next big job is to finish the windscreen and have the frame plated.. Then the interior trim.

Bernie J.

Edited July 6, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest 1928Packard526]

Bernie —

Why did I know that if the ball and socket was not appropriate in that linkage you would replace it? Bernie you are an absolute perfectionist, and I say that in astounded admiration. Getting everything right always drives what you do. I have two sons that seem to be cut from the same cloth. While they didn't get that from me, it means whatever they do will pass any test for being of only the best craftsmanship. Sometimes it hurts and it is often the more expensive way to an end, but there is always a measure of pride in the results. Best part is I get to share a bit in that pride.

You pinstriper is amazing. With most modern pinstripes being of the vinyl tape variety those with his skills are an diminishing population. More's the pity, but his work matches the quality you have exhibited in all your restoration work that I have seen.

Regards,

Pete P.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Bernie,

Looks absolutely fantastic and I think the pinstriping really sets it off !

You'll be happy to know my car is now a Dave the Painters ! I fitted the entire car ( except body shell ) in the back of the Voyager ! Dave couldn't believe it !

Anyhow well keep in touch.

Ian

[oldcar]

Hi Ian

Look forward to seeing your car after Dave has waved his magic wand over it.

Pete

Before rushing too far into making the new (Clevis end) throttle linkage I thought that I should have a look at some archived photographs. One that an old friend in the US sent to me some time ago and the other taken when I first acquired the Packard as a basket case... Possibly the only thing wrong is that I had painted my linkages silver instead of black.

Bernie J.

Edited July 7, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Joe Block]

Bernie, There is a product to repair wood boats called Kwik-Poly that flows like water but hardens very nice and will take nails and screws. It works great, it will even make a piece of rotted wood useable as long as it's not a main structural component. It's not cheap but we use it on ALL of our wood to keep out bugs,rot,and rattles as well as loose joints. I'm sure if you try it you will use it on the whole car. You can also use it to fill old nail and screw holes. Look it up on the net and I am sure you will find it. Ed

this sound great to fix my window frame damage on the 42 Packard Limo. I just real all about it.

[Joe Block]

True confessions time.

In addition to my reply to Scott here is a photograph of "where it all happens". We live on a suburban one fifth of an acre block in a house we built some 40 years ago. It has four bedrooms and two bathrooms a two car carport and a small single car garage/workshop. Helen drives a now 4 year old VW (Turbo Diesel) Jetta and my daily driver is a 1985 Alfa Romeo "33" hatch-back The VW lives in the carport and the Alfa outside.

" I have just celebrated my 74th birthday and have been retired about 15 years. 8 years ago I had major surgery for bladder cancer. At that time I had my bladder replaced with an (after-market) "neo-bladder" fabricated from a piece of my small intestine. At the same time I had my right kidney and my prostate removed. Some twelve months earlier I had a spinal laminectamy (two vertebra welded together) to overcome a serious chronic back problem. In addition to actually working on my restorations with my own two hands, I write articles (such as the "Return to Louisville" for the Antique Automobile) for the Automobile magazine in the UK and for two or three local car club magazines. Together with my wife Helen we take an active part in VSCC (Victoria Australia) competitive road events in our Lagonda Rapier two seater, a car that we have owned since 1978 having bought it as a broken-down racing car. The "Rapier"has also taken us on five or six visits to the UK and Europe. We are certainly not millionaires in fact far from it. We have four children (3 sons & 1 daughter) and 9 grandchildren. Cars such as the Packard and the Dixie Flyer are referred to as my "Project Cars" and tend to be sold on once the restoration is completed. This in part finances the next "project". I am a compulsive rescuer of basket cases and cars that no one else in their right mind would ever even think about taking on let alone fully restoring. In the past these projects have taken around 12 to 18 months to complete. As I have grown older and my standard of work has hopefully improved they have tended to take a little longer. I have lost count of the number of such restoration projects that I have successfully completed.

I am not a collector and generally look on collectors as selfish people, denying less fortunate people the opportunity of owning and enjoying an Antique Automobile.

Finally my creed is that God put wheels on Automobiles so that people could DRIVE them not so they could roll them into trailers.

I hope that I have not offended too many people but at least you know where I am coming from!

Bernie J.

P.S. To work in the "garage" I must first put the Lagonda outside. When it rains it gets wet.

Very Well said, If you show I beleive it should driven on a least two days of touring during the week at US national even.

[oldcar]

Wow Packards42

You really have been digging into the past..... You must have about 15-20 pages to catch up.

It is winter here in Australia right now so just about everything is getting wet except that today has been one of those brilliant cold and frosty but sunny days. Tony the trimmer has promised yet again, that he will make a start on the Packards seats in 10 days time. I think that I may have to take a Bible over for his to swear to that on.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

Hello Ian

Thanks for your e-mail sorry I could not open the attachment.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

Little by little progress is happening! Spend an extremely interesting day out at our son Steve's, he has been extremely helpful finishing off a couple of small but essential machining jobs on the windscreen fittings. Next task should be to take a load of "stuff" over to the platers for a nice fresh coat of nickel. That done I will be able to move on to ordering the glass.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

I am sorry that I don't have lots of exciting photographs to show you just now but as mentioned above this afternoon has been spent sorting out all those fiddly little bits to take to be nickel plated, First there are the two halves of the windscreen frame, the two windscreen side pillars, the rail that goes across the top of the windscreen between the pillars, two 1/4 unc X 3/4 inch raised head slotted screws, two 10 gauge metal thread round head slotted screws, the bits that go to make up the latches for the headlamp rims and the two 5/16 UNF special nuts that go with them and finally the two little angle fittings that go to hold the front rail of the top to the top of the windscreen. With the exception of the two windscreen frame and the pillars that I had cast in bronze from wooden patterns I made and the two special nuts for the headlamp rim latches I have fabricated everything largely from materials sourced from my "useful" bin. For the windscreen frame I actually bought a length (6 metres) of the correct brass channel section. This I cut up into no less than eight pieces then silver soldered it all back together again.

Recycling taken to the "enth" degree.

Bernie J.

For "useful" read; short lengths of steel, brass & aluminium, strip, rod, tube & etc, etc, all too good to be thrown away because I may find a use for it one day!

Edited July 15, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Joe Block]

Yes, I just found this restoration, I been off the site with work and my own project, I trying to broaden my horizons. I did spend 1 year in Brisbane and another 4 in Cairns. great Country, that was way to far North from the antique car hobby for me.

[oldcar]

Back to work! Having delivered all the windscreen bits to be plated I decided that while I was out and about that I should continue on and pick up a length of "link" belting for the water pump/fan drive belt. Having given this much thought I had decided to use this type of belt as the clearance between the fan blades and the radiator core was just too close for comfort if I was to fit a conventional "B" section endless V belt.

Having made this decision I am sure that there will be at least six or eight experts who will tell me that 1. This type of drive belt is totally incorrect for a 1923 Packard and 2. that If I insist using this belt that I should at least put it on the right way around. That these belts are directional and that mine is on the wrong way around!

Bernie J.

Edited July 16, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Roger Zimmermann]

The fact is that I never saw such a belt! When was that used? early in the century? I'm probably wrong, but I would not drive a long distance with such a belt!

[oldcar]

Hello Roger.

I am amazed at your ready confession to such ignorance.

There are two types of "link" belt that have been commonly used in industry for over a century. The Whittle belt invented by the grandfather of the English inventor of the modern Jet engine. This originally used wooden (lignum vitae) links. And the Brammer belt invented by a gentleman of that name living in Belgium. The Brammer belt is still used in industry, hence its ready availability over the counter from most Industrial Drive Belt suppliers. Some of the important features of this type of belt are its vibration free operation, its ease of adjustment to any given length, the ability to install it without the need to dismantle the machinery and the positive drive without the need for increased tension thus reducing the load on bearings etc. Modern "Toothed' belts such as cam drive belts are an adaption of the Brammer principals. This type of belt was also commonly used during the early to mid teens as the drive for "Belt driven" motorcycles and cycle-cars. Despite the attitude of many so called ANTIQUE car enthusiasts there WAS a sophisticated and thriving motor industry prior to 1950.

Google tells us:-

Commonly known as "Brammer" this type of V-belt (it cannot be used on flat-belt drives) is widely used in industrial and marine applications. Although more expensive than ordinary V belts it does have some important advantages:* It can be installed without having to dismantle the drive system and spend hours pulling apart well set-up or bedded-in components.

* It helps to prevent a drive system reaching a resonance frequency and is recommended where the transmission of vibration from the motor or other sources is undesirable - in precision grinding machines and high-speed lathe spindles, for example.

* It is of very high quality and claimed by the makers to have an improved shock-loading capacity and better abrasion, oil, chemical, damp and heat resistance in comparison with an ordinary V belt.

* It fits all standard pulleys - there is no need to replace or modify the existing setup.

* Adjustments to tension can be made without having to move pulley apart or together.

<o:p></o:p>

Bernie J.

Edited July 17, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

and still in use today too. 1/2'' Power Twist Plus Link V-Belt - Rockler Woodworking Tools

[Roger Zimmermann]

Very interesting, thank you to improve my education! This belt story remember me my youth, even if it's remote: my father had a woodwork shop; his machines 4 or 5 if I remember well) were activated by an underground flat belts system. It always facinated me; he had to repair one or the other belt from time to time...

[oldcar]

Little by little I am now going through the process of ticking off the million and one jobs that tend to be put off. One of the next on the list is the quadrant and hand controls for the centre of the steering wheel, this of course includes the horn button. Before proceeding I must ask you to go all the way back to Page 7 of this thread, #151 on December 21 2010. Charles H Brown of Hong Kong I have neither forgotten or lost your Pot Lid Knobs! They have been carefully stored in a safe place awaiting this day. I just need a couple more days and one will finally reach its destination.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

Continuing on with my little by little policy, I have today unearthed a good 6 volt coil from my collection and fitted it to the original position on the inside of the bulkhead behind the dashboard. I have decided initially I will not connect the Fuelizer spark plug as there were some doubts about the efficiency of the original double ended 1923 coil. Then I discovered that the starter motor had dried out and stiffened up during its long rest so this has now been dismantled, lubricated, the armature cleaned up and the brushes cleaned and checked that they were not likely to stick in their holders, the whole thing re-assembled and checked for operation, all that still needs to be done is for the fresh coat of paint to dry and it can be re-installed.

Bernie J.

Edited July 19, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

Hi All

I have not gone away but while I am waiting for the windscreen frame etc I have been giving my trusty daily driver a spruce up. a 1996 Peugeot 405 SRi This is the fully optioned 2 Litre (8 valve) Petrol 5 speed manual version of the French farmer's all purpose vehicle. Very quiet very smooth a delight to drive.

Edited July 22, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[Guest yellowjag]

Hello Bernie,

As a newby here and jag afficionado, i'm also much interested in those SS-Jag photographs. Would it be possible to send me some of those too?

Thanks

Job D.

[oldcar]

Hi Job D

Rather than take up space here with an unrelated reply I will send you an e-mail.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

As I had to drive across town to order the safety glass for the windscreen today I called into the Penrite factory outlet and bought the two litres of 140 gear oil for the rear axle and 90 trans oil for the gearbox. Filled the rear axle this afternoon, the two litres filling it nicely. The windscreen glass should be ready in about two weeks about the same time that the frame should be finished being nickel plated.

Bernie J

[oldcar]

Continuing on with my one job at a time policy the next item on the yet to be done list is the exhaust system.

During its 45-50 year life in a Custom's Bond Store the Packard was moved from time to time using a fork lift truck. This resulted with both the front, engine, pipe and the silencer being crushed. The silencer was originally made to be demountable being held together by three threaded rods running from end to end. With these removed the two end caps can be simply driven off using a small hammer and a suitable drift. The internal primary defuser is attached to the outlet end cap. The outlet pipe protrudes some six inches into the main chamber. The plan is to replace the outer tube using 6 inch diam double walled flue (stove) pipe and to repair the small rusted sections of the end caps retaining the original internals. The original (cast iron) end of the tail pipe will be sand blasted and given a coat of heat resistant black. a new front (engine) pipe and tail pipe will have to be bent up using the originals for patterns.

Bernie J.

Edited July 27, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

With the original muffler internals in place and the end caps tacked into position is hardly the time to run out of acetylene but now I am waiting for another cylinder to be delivered. On the positive side the high temperature exhaust paint on the tailpipe tip has dried overnight so that is one more (small) box that can be ticked.

Bernie J.

Edited July 30, 2012 by oldcar (see edit history)

[oldcar]

A little more progress, collected the windscreen frame etc and the small parts for the headlight rim latches from the platers yesterday. The Glass will be ready on Monday. All I need to do now is to find where I hid the four little screws that attach the latches to the headlight rims.

Bernie J.

[oldcar]

Yet another small step forward, the windscreen pillars and the bottom section of the frame are now in place and awaiting the glass.

Bj.