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1957 Roadmaster Front Grill Center Brow & Hupcaps


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Guest martylum

Hi-If you mean the chrome potmetal piece which runs horizontally across the top of the grill opening I have a pretty nice one but not sure if it's 40-60 or 50-70. Can you give me dimensions of this piece please. I bought one at Hershey for my 56 Century and it's entirely wrong for a 56 but I was told it's for a 57. If you have the part # cast into the back side of the piece this would help to identify.

Martin Lum

marty@oldercar.com

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  • 2 months later...

I have one for a 50 - 70 series that I bought, thinking it would work on the 40 series. Oops. Interested in selling it if you still need one. Needs to be rechromed, but not pitted. Drop me a note if interested.

Jim

57 - Model 48

BCA# 45059

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  • 2 months later...
Guest 57buickfan
Hello:

I am in the market for the front grill center brow piece which follows the front hood line. Mine is cracked through.

Also need 4 nice Roadmaster hub caps with nice red and clear center caps.

Let me know.

Thanks in advance!

David

Got pice you are looking for $125 including shipping

thanks, ray

rnordstrom@cgmailbox.com

520-510-4284

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Guest martylum

I have what I think is a 57 grill bar. I too bought for my 56 Buick Century . What is the overall length of your piece. I think mine is in very nice condition not pitted possibly in NOS condition.

Martin Lum

56 Buick Century

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the delay in getting back onto my own post. Gosh, I could not for some odd reason, find this post the other day and thought it lost, so I posted a new inquiry into getting a bar. I have had some similar issues with my browser and thought this may be par for it.

Anyways, thank you all for your replies and offers to help.

So, If anyone of you that responded to my request still have a good bar and want to sell it to me please let me know. The Super / Roadmaster bars measure 67-1/2 inches long from end to end. The Special / Century bars are about 4-inches shorter.

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John: All though that posting would be of some interest, it is a fact that the Super/Roadmaster bar measures 67-1/2 inches from end to end. In addition this piece has gradual radius contouring on each end. Opposed to this is the Special/Century piece which is nearly 4-inches shorter and the ends have distinctive sharp turn downs at the ends so once you compare them there is no mistake which is which. I will try and post the part number for the Super/Roadmaster bar tomorrow and hope this helps you to that end.

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Yeah thanks, this is a good site as they have some nice solutions for hard to find parts.

I am still looking for a nice bar. So if anyone has one, let me know -

If you are getting one rechromed anyway a crack is easily repaired by most any GOOD rechromer...........Bob

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Good input.

Here is my take on these things. Pot metal has a melting point of approximately 850 degrees F. That is too low for flame or arc. Cold set epoxies are only as strong as the ability of the substrate surface to hold onto the filler (epoxy) and maintaing a bond. Any torsional strains will shear and cleave this bond. Cold flash spot brazing can be used but again the pot metal is brittle and porous.

Pot metal expansion and contraction will be different from that of the filler or bond material used to fill crack. This will result in shear.

Most of these bars with cracks have them located at or near the bar's major flex points usually about 25 % inbound from the ends near where the hood meets the fenders or below where the bar connects to the grill assembly. Breakage here is usually the result of a pressure or sharp impact force from above. Incomplete non homogenous bonding will shear once again at these junctions or create stresses that will make the areas next to these non resilient bonds crack and or shear as well.

I will continue to look for one without major pitting or volcanic points as when striping these for chroming and knocking down the surface these result in deep holes in the pot metal that must be filled. The cooper can only fill so much regardless of the number of times you tank it if the holes are too deep. Some shops fill with bondo/metal filler in the back room when no one is looking, but this lacks the charge capability attraction to chemically bond copper and nickel to it's surface thereby setting up one for future flaking and or peeling.

I have through ignorance and or the fault of only myself, missed out on a couple good bars as of recent.

My quest continues however ..... so if anyone has one let me know.

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