Guest Lowrider70 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Im trying to source a stock steering wheel for my '65 Riv... one thats preferably in reasonable condition (not too dried and cracked). Failing that, maybe a nice wooden one, or an aftermarket (classic style) item that would fit. Any suggestions people?? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUICK RACER Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 64 65 66 BUICK RIVIERA GS WALNUT STEERING WHEEL & HUB : eBay Motors (item 110489933745 end time Feb-13-10 18:30:00 PST) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Thanks for the link... but are there other Riviera emblems (apart from GS) available which would fit over the centre hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 (edited) The hub will (should) have the Riviera "R" in the center. There wasn't a GS hub for these wheels. These wheels were a separate option available on any Riviera; it was not part of the GS option. Unchromed horm bars are available from Gene Garnere. He has an ad in the back of the Riview. His horn bars are made of brass and won't pit.Ed Edited February 10, 2010 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 So did you ever use this wheel yourself? If so, what kind of hub cap emblem (if any) did you use and where is it now? Does Gene also have the "R" hub caps that would fit this wheel?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 I have a complete wheel of my own that came from a '64 Riviera, but it's not pitted and the horn bar is in tact. The wheel was a Buick option and probably could have been ordered on other models as well. But if you bought the wood wheel option along with the GS option on a Riviera, the cap would have had a large script R on it.Gene reproduces horn bars because the OE ones are easily broken. They were originally made of die cast and it was possible to push the bar farther than the casting allowed for. Hence, a lot of bars were snapped off. The only problem with the caps comes with age. Diecast pits as it ages. Muggy weld makes a rod that can be used to fill in diecast after the pits have been removed. Refinish it and it can be rechromed. The secret to keep the bars intact is to use your index or middle finger and push up on the bar from the rear. That way you're pushing the bar into the hub. If you push down on it, you're pulling the bar away from the hub and you can go too far and snap it off. Your thumb on the end of the bar can create a lot of leverage and everyone knows that the lever is one of the "simple tools" used to overcome excess weight and force.There are no reproduction caps that I know of. Just call Gene, he can tell you everything you'd ever want to know about these wheels and what's available for them first hand.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Thanks for that piece of information Ed... in that case, I'll contact Gene and see what he can offer me, in terms of a better steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65VerdeGS Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Has anyone seen or purchased one of the brass wood wheel horn bars that Gene Guarnere is offering? Are they good quality, crisp castings? Once chromed, will it look like the original?I had my horn bar repaired many years ago by a welder friend, (after being told that pot metal could not be welded). I suspect my horn bar is growing weak again... but I'd I buy one of Gene's bars I'd like some feedback on Gene's bar before buying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Has anyone seen or purchased one of the brass wood wheel horn bars that Gene Guarnere is offering? Are they good quality, crisp castings? Once chromed, will it look like the original?I'd I buy one of Gene's bars I'd like some feedback on Gene's bar before buying.Hi folks,The same question: any feedback from somebody regarding quality ? I would also need one .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 (edited) I've seen them at Gene's table at some of the ROA events. The quality of the construction is first rate. He didn't repro them in pot metal, he made them so they're strong and won't pit. The final quality will depend on you and the plater you chose to do your chroming.I've known Gene for a long time and know for a fact that if it isn't right, Gene doesn't sell it. I wouldn't have mentioned it in my earlier post if I didn't think it was a quality product.EdPS - I haven't bought one because I'm fortunate enough to have one that isn't broken and isn't pitted. If (when) it breaks or starts to pit, I'll buy one of Gene's in a heartbeat. Look at what you have now and just think about your other options. Edited February 11, 2010 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65VerdeGS Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Thanks for the feedback on Gene's repro horn bar. I'll contact him about getting one. Do you know if he's on this forum? What's his 'handle'?AlexROA#259 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Every once in a while, he gets the forum. But if you look on pg. 27 of your latest Riview, you'll find his email address. ABANDG@AOL.COM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I've seen them at Gene's table at some of the ROA events. The quality of the construction is first rate. He didn't repro them in pot metal, he made them so they're strong and won't pit. The final quality will depend on you and the plater you chose to do your chroming.I've known Gene for a long time and know for a fact that if it isn't right, Gene doesn't sell it. I wouldn't have mentioned it in my earlier post if I didn't think it was a quality product.EdPS - I haven't bought one because I'm fortunate enough to have one that isn't broken and isn't pitted. If (when) it breaks or starts to pit, I'll buy one of Gene's in a heartbeat. Look at what you have now and just think about your other options.I've emailed Gene and Im now just waiting to hear from him. From your feedback, it appears that he does construct some good quality horn bars... and its good to hear you speak highly of his work. It's just a shame Gene doesn't rebuild/refurb complete wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 I've emailed Gene and Im now just waiting to hear from him. From your feedback, it appears that he does construct some good quality horn bars... and its good to hear you speak highly of his work. It's just a shame Gene doesn't rebuild/refurb complete wheels!Did you get any answer ?In the meantime, Ive located steel repro:1963-66 RIVIERA - Horn Bar, 1963-66 Riviera Authentically reproduced steel bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 My wheel is buried in the basement and I can't get to it easily or I'd look at it. Take a look at the wheel in the original post. The bars on it are at 180* to the hub. Then look at the horn bar in the previous post; the bars are not at 180* to the hub. Before paying out that kind of money, make sure that this horn bar fit your wheel! Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 (edited) My wheel is buried in the basement and I can't get to it easily or I'd look at it. Take a look at the wheel in the original post. The bars on it are at 180* to the hub. Then look at the horn bar in the previous post; the bars are not at 180* to the hub. Before paying out that kind of money, make sure that this horn bar fit your wheel! EdYou are right with these 180* - but my wheel is on the way to Poland. It will arrive with the car in around 2 months... Then I will be able to check. Thanks for note !EDIT: However I have an picture of my wheel, and it looks like the bars should NOT be exactly in 180*. Edited March 28, 2010 by buick-riviera.pl adding picture (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Did you get any answer ?In the meantime, Ive located steel repro:1963-66 RIVIERA - Horn Bar, 1963-66 Riviera Authentically reproduced steel barI did receive a brief reply and, unfortunately, it appears that Gene is not active in re-producing horn bars any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 I did receive a brief reply and, unfortunately, it appears that Gene is not active in re-producing horn bars any more. Folks, any ideas where to get the bars, except OPGI ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I've sent request to Gene regarding horn bars. Here's the answer:"George, I do not have any at this time. I hope to get more made. i will keep your e-mail on file. thanks Gene." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I've sent request to Gene regarding horn bars. Here's the answer:"George, I do not have any at this time. I hope to get more made. i will keep your e-mail on file. thanks Gene."Similar to the answer he gave me. Oh well... if you end up having any luck with Gene, then just let me know. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gee_Rydes Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Sounds like Gene should modify his Riview ad. It is probably just a matter of demand and costs to run a certain minimum quantity.I know I will be needing one also here pretty soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buickbonehead Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 (edited) I have a few repop hornbars. These are solid steel and do not have the hollow back of the original pot metal castings. They are VERY strong. They DO NOT have the raised surface on the face of the arms as do the OEM. Please don't expect an EXACT replica. They are very close to the originals and would be very hard to tell once mounted in the wheel. These are fully chromed and are $265 + shipping. I went up from $250 as chrome costs have increased. This is my first post here as I usually hang out on V8Buick. I go by the same handle there and my ebay handle is sorry-sold! if you want to check me out.I do not have a Rivi, but I do have a '65 Wildcat.The one on the left is NOS and the one on the right is the repop.NOS:Repop:NOS:Repop:We're trying to get the correct finish on the horn caps next. These are not ready for sale yet. I have several people in line for these. If we can get the finish right these will be beautiful. They have clips and locator pins. Edited July 8, 2010 by buickbonehead (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Similar to the answer he gave me. Oh well... if you end up having any luck with Gene, then just let me know. Thanks.OK ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 I've seen them at Gene's table at some of the ROA events. The quality of the construction is first rate. He didn't repro them in pot metal, he made them so they're strong and won't pit. The final quality will depend on you and the plater you chose to do your chroming. .Anybody has any picture of repro from Gene ?Would be interesting to see & compare to the last posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Buick Riviera Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Buick Riviera Wildcat Electra Wood Wheel Horn Bar-Repop | eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 If the horn bar on my wood wheel wasn't still in good shape, I'd be after one of these in a heartbeat. Anyone have any idea as to how the guy is doing with the repro horn buttons?The secret to saving your OE horn bar is to press up on the horn bar from beneath the wheel using your index or middle finger. Keep your thumbs off of them. Whe you press up, you pressing the bar into the hub, rather than prying it away when you press down with your thumb. Also when pressing up it's uncomfortable and you're not as inclined to as much pressure on it as you do when pressing down with your thumb. Remember, pressing harder on the bar does NOT make the horn honk louder. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Remember, pressing harder on the bar does NOT make the horn honk louder. EdIf only... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lowrider70 Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Hi There,How are you progressing with the horn bars and centre caps? In fact I'm still looking for a complete wood steering wheel for my '65 Riviera... NOS or Repro, I'm not bothered, so long as it looks right. Do you have any for sale??Ned.I have a few repop hornbars. These are solid steel and do not have the hollow back of the original pot metal castings. They are VERY strong. They DO NOT have the raised surface on the face of the arms as do the OEM. Please don't expect an EXACT replica. They are very close to the originals and would be very hard to tell once mounted in the wheel. These are fully chromed and are $265 + shipping. I went up from $250 as chrome costs have increased. This is my first post here as I usually hang out on V8Buick. I go by the same handle there and my ebay handle is sorry-sold! if you want to check me out.I do not have a Rivi, but I do have a '65 Wildcat.The one on the left is NOS and the one on the right is the repop.NOS:Repop:NOS:Repop:We're trying to get the correct finish on the horn caps next. These are not ready for sale yet. I have several people in line for these. If we can get the finish right these will be beautiful. They have clips and locator pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buickbonehead Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) Hi Ned:I still have some hornbars. I am sold out of horn caps right now. I currently have 4 caps at the chromers. Two of those are spoken for and the other two I plan to sell as full setups. It seems they are easier to sell as a complete setup.A full setup would consist of everything needed except the turn signal canceling pin. That can be transferred from your old steering wheel. The hornbar , horncap and hub will all have fresh chrome. The hub is OEM and is what gives me the most trouble getting the chrome right. Pot metal is just flat difficult to chrome if even mildly pitted. The horn guts are difficult to locate too. If anyone know where to get them please let me know. I know Clarke's Corvair has or had some but I've had people tell me they are sold out. The chevy kits are missing the large plastic insulator ring.The question becomes how nice of a wheel (the wheel itself) do you want. I have several wheels available. A few still show the wood tone and some are the dark brown you see on most of the wheels. With the other items being either new (repopped) or freshly chromed, the wheel willl be the weak item in the overall appeal. You might consider having the wheel refinished. I've thought of getting them refinished before selling, but I would then have to mark that up too.Here are some pictures of a finished horn cap and a rechromed hub. That is an OEM hornbar. The picture was taken to show the fitment with the OEM hornbar. A repop will fit the same. Edited April 28, 2011 by buickbonehead To add more pics. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 If the horn bar on my wood wheel wasn't still in good shape, I'd be after one of these in a heartbeat. Anyone have any idea as to how the guy is doing with the repro horn buttons?The secret to saving your OE horn bar is to press up on the horn bar from beneath the wheel using your index or middle finger. Keep your thumbs off of them. Whe you press up, you pressing the bar into the hub, rather than prying it away when you press down with your thumb. Also when pressing up it's uncomfortable and you're not as inclined to as much pressure on it as you do when pressing down with your thumb. Remember, pressing harder on the bar does NOT make the horn honk louder. EdHi Ed - looking for a walnut steering wheel complete for my 64 . Any tips ? I found a steering wheel without the bar or cap on EBay for $ 699! Don't want to buy it if I can't complete the build however . On another note , took the dash pad out today and the " mystery" knob is intact and wired and labeled " cruise " in black marker. Appears to be rather old markings perhaps when this car was supposedly restored in 2004 or so. Not sure it is working but will continue to explore. Thanks for all your help. Kendall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Kendall,Unless Buickbonehead is reproducing the horn bars and caps, this wheel isn't going to do you much good. If you're just looking for something other than the stock plastic wheel, there are quite a few good looking aftermarket units out there. There's another one posted for $499 but if you look closely at it, there's some pitting on chrome piece that matches up with the steering column. Just keep looking.EdEd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIVNIK Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Sup lowrider..... nothing beats a genuine Riviera wood wheel, of course.....it's almost like a "holy grail" that everyone wants to eventually acquire, but have you priced one lately?! I could only justify the expense if my Riv was in concourse condition. An alternative is a wheel made by Grant Industries which somewhat resembles the Riv wheel and looks good in the car. It is real mahogany and has three spokes which are identical to the Riv wheels', only without the notorious horn bar. The horn is activated by a center button with a very genuine looking R emblem. I couldn't afford a repro horn bar and center hub ( mine were hopelessly broken & pitted, and I lost all the mounting hardware anyway), so I sold my "wood" wheel on Ebay, purchased the Grant wheel with the proceeds, and took a small vacation with the money I had left over......seriously. If I had any complaints they would be #1, the wood was much darker and shinier than it appeared in the Ebay auction, and matches my interior wood even less than my original wood wheel,(which was never great anyway) & #2, the edges of the spokes were sharp and had to be softened up with emery cloth in order to spin with one finger. Sorry I can't provide a link because I'm somewhat techless, but Google Grantclassiccarwheels and you will find several dealers who handle them. By the way, I in no way intend to disparage anyone for putting a high value on certain hard to find parts, and I commend you guys who amass enough parts to provide them to the rest of us....I couldn't have restored my 65 without you. I merely offer this idea as an alternative for anyone who can't afford or isn't concerned with strict originality Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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