jonlabree Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Can some one tell me what the normal draw on the battery would be with everything shut down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Come On, None of you electrical genesis’s can reply to this question????:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Sure when I see it. (I do not live here, been getting the Fiero outta the Reatta stall).Around 20 ma (think the 88 - no RKE - was 17 ma last time I looked. AFAIR the GM spec is 50 ma and 200 will drain most batteries inside a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 My 90 with RKE draws about 26 Ma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgmck Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Has any one found a decent disconnect switch??????? I have two Reatta's a Park Avenue that just love to kill batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 It's all well and good to install a disconnect switch, but then it kills everything and the computer looses memory. The shutoff switch I use has a bypass fuse line that I have a 5 amp fuse in. It will allow all the computer stuff to continue to work, but if you try to start it, it blows the fuse.The reason I asked about draw is because when I reconnect the battery kill switch I hear a click from around the relay center under the hood. It may be coming from the headlight area also, I'm not sure.Yesterdaywas greeted with a completly dead battery. I had left my battery minder off for about a week. This has never happened before and I am concerned that I have a draw other that normal.Still wondering about that.THANKS for the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Jon, Something is not right. I can leave my Reatta sitting for a month or more without draining the battery. I never need a trickle charge to keep the battery up. The alternator is a good place to start looking for the problem. Try disconnecting it while the car is sitting and see if the battery still goes dead quickly. Be careful and not short the large wire connected to it. It is hot all the time. Reconnect the alternator before trying to restart the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 You can also put a Multimeter set to milliamps in series with the thick wire that hooks to the alternator, as Ronnie said be careful, it is hot at all times and the terminal it connects to and look at the meter. any more than 1 or 2 millamps leakage means one or more of the six diodes are failing and you need to replace both sets of three or the alternator if you don't feel like taking it apart. Another method is to hook up the meter in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the the ground cable, make sure meter is set to DC amps, if set to millamps the courtesy lights will blow the meter fuse. Then start pulling fuses one at a time while someone watches the meter to drop to 0.00. Then you have found the circuit that has the current draw. Most multimeters have a limit of 10 amps so make sure key is off and lights are off or you may pop the other fuse in the meter. Oh yeah, don't step on the brake pedal, I don't know what they draw but I bet it is close to or more than 10 amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 I have discovered that it is in the headlight circuit. When I pull the two fuses in the relay center under the hood the draw stops. But what can it be. When the fuses are in and I unscrew the battery disconnect I hear a click like a relay coming on or off. It is coming from the headlight motors. The draw is 2.45 amp and 11.o4 volts. Is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I believe the click is normal. My car does the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 How about the voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 KennyW had a similar issue some time ago. Click is normal, 2.45a draw is definately not and will drain in under a day. Just need to pull fuses and breakers until it goes away.Have left my computer cars alone for up to a month before and started right up though am slowly converting to Optimas (three so far). Vehicles in back garage usually have a HF float charger connected. Was just on sale for $5.99 but appears to be off now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I have discovered that it is in the headlight circuit. When I pull the two fuses in the relay center under the hood the draw stops. But what can it be. When the fuses are in and I unscrew the battery disconnect I hear a click like a relay coming on or off. It is coming from the headlight motors. The draw is 2.45 amp and 11.o4 volts. Is this normal?Those two fuses go to the headlight module that controls the headlight door motors. I would unplug the headlight door motors and see if the amperage draw goes away. If it doesn't I would disconnect the module. If the amperage draw goes away, rule out a defective wire, then replace the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Ok, I can do that. But where is the module? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 FSM says "Front LH corner of engine compartment, below Underhood Relay Center." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 That's what I thought. Sounds like a nasty job. But first I need a new one.JIM where are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booreatta Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 It's all well and good to install a disconnect switch, but then it kills everything and the computer looses memory. The shutoff switch I use has a bypass fuse line that I have a 5 amp fuse in. It will allow all the computer stuff to continue to work, but if you try to start it, it blows the fuse.The reason I asked about draw is because when I reconnect the battery kill switch I hear a click from around the relay center under the hood. It may be coming from the headlight area also, I'm not sure.Yesterdaywas greeted with a completly dead battery. I had left my battery minder off for about a week. This has never happened before and I am concerned that I have a draw other that normal.Still wondering about that.THANKS for the replies.I had a fire 10 years ago and have made it SOP to unhook all batteries when the car is not is use regardless of what the computer is doing. If the car sits for any amount of time the un hook the batteries. common sense is cheap insurance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 (edited) That's what I thought. Sounds like a nasty job. But first I need a new one.JIM where are you?Did you try unplugging the motors? Yes it may be hard to get to but I would also try unplugging the module before ordering another one. It is possible something else could cause the problem. Edited November 8, 2009 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steveskyhawk Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 If somebody needs a healight module I have quite a few spares. Send me a PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wws944 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 One really good place to look for draws is aftermarket alarm and stereo systems. Especially alarm systems. If the draw is in the headlight circuit, is it possible it has been "tapped into"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Have been told that 87-88 Fiero and 87-92 Firebird use a module that will interchange with the Reatta if you have trouble finding a real one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I have never heard of an aftermarket anything that drew 2.5 amps on standby. If the door motors are easy to unplug I would try those one at a time, however my gut says module. You could feel the motors, 2.45 amps is enough to make one feel warmer than the other or surroundig hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Thanks,:) guys for all of the repies. I still haven't found the culprit. Right now I'm running some tests to see if the battery goes dead again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrentS Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 FYI: Every time you drain your battery, you wipe-out a good percentage of its life. Also, storing a battery while not fully charged, shortens the life considerably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) Brents is correct, with most automotive batteries everytime you completely discharge it for 24 hours you may have reduced it's life 6 months to a year. I speak from experiance, using a car battery in a boat that would sometimes sit for a couple of months between uses. Should have used a marine deep cycle type.PS. From what I hear now the Optima battery is the way to go. Edited November 10, 2009 by Richard D (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mongeonman Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I have connected my multimeter in serial between the batterie and the positive wire of my 2 reattas,the 88 pulls 4.5 amps and the 90 pulls 5.5 amps(not milliamps i triple checked)i never had any problems on the 88 and i use it all summer long and it sometimes sit for more than a week,the 90 i just got it 1 month ago and did not notice any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mongeonman Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I went back in the garage cause i think it made no sense,i reinstalled the multimeter and heard a click,reading was 5.5 amps,waited about 20seconds multimeter still connected and reading got to .016 amp and stayed still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrentS Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Yeah, that makes more sense mongeonman.............there's NO WAY a car battery would last even close to a week with single-digit amp draws.....NO WAY. I have group 27 batteries in my boat, and I can drain one in approx 10 hours with a 5 to 10 Amp draw (refrigerator, radio, etc.). That's why I have the second battery to start-up the boat, at the end of a long day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jcc3inc Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Mongeonman,I think what was happening is that some of the inside lights come on for a short time, then go off. I considered that at first when 63viking first posted. When opening the driver's door, some of the instrument lights come on, then go off later. Likely something like that happens when you reconnect the battery while getting ready to take a reading.Regards,Jack C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Jon,I am back home and if you need a module let me know. I can send it out right away.Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 I'm still stuck. Here's what I've discovered so If I disconnect the main battery cable that is next to the over flow bottle and the Alternator battery lead, the draw is .01 or .02 volts, Normal, correct?<o:p></o:p>Making either one of those connections the draw is 11.65 volts. I have my extra circuits disconnected. (circuits that I have installed) Has any one ever had this problem before?I have ruled out the headlights by disconnecting them and the motors. I also have pulled all the fuses, and the relays under the hood one at a time and still the same draw.Soon, hair is going to fly.:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Jon, Could you explain how you are connecting your meter in detail so I can better understand how you are arriving at your battery draw numbers? Do you have the meter connected between the battery cable (with it removed from the battery) and the negative battery post? Is you meter capable of measuring DC amperage as well as voltage?In this thread some of the posters are referring to amperage draw and others are referring to voltage. It's like trying to compare apples and oranges. We need to determine a standard way of testing so we are all on the same page when talking about battery drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 + side of battery is disconnected and VOM is inserted between the battery and the positive cable. The amp draw is about 2.5 amps at 11.65 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 I would stick with amperage readings as the way to measure battery drain. Voltage readings tell you how much potential is there but not how much actual current flow (load) is present.I would test with the meter set to read amperage. Leave the positive cable connected to the battery. Then remove the negative cable and connect the leads of your meter between the battery post and the battery cable. Then see how much amperage draw you have.First thing you need to know... Does the amperage go down when you disconnect the large wire from the alternator? Bad diodes will cause battery drain like you are experiencing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 I appears that the problem was, once again, a weak battery. Who would of guessed? I have replaced and all seems well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 here is my [click] problem and probably yours.......ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 After a week sitting, no draw. It WAS the battery. Final answer<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) For anyone who is having similar problems, I have just added instructions for checking current drain on the battery on our Reattas to my website. It will give you a good baseline on what the normal drain should be on the battery when the car is parked.Click here to check it out.If anyone has any comments or corrections please let me know. Edited November 25, 2009 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nittany Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 63viking - thanks for reporting back the end result! That is always helpful for others who follow the threads or those who later research the site looking for similar issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Ronnie: GM spec is "less than 50 ma" 88 which has no RKE will be the lowest, 17-20 ma in my experience. Anything over 200 ma will drain the battery in a day or two.Also if your DMM is limited to a 10A max, when the blower module shorts so that the heater/ac fan is running constantly (not uncommon failure) , the draw can be in the neighborhood of 15 amps and will pop the fuse (if you have a fuse). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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