Jump to content

BrentS

Members
  • Content Count

    247
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BrentS

  1. I replaced my belts years ago.... and then a white plastic piece broke, and that's when I gave up on the cassette deck. I don't have a pic of it, unfortunately... but was not going to be easy to repair. Would have to machine or 3D print a replacement part.
  2. When I hold the "TEST" button down on the instrument panel, it appears I never get the Brake, Security, Battery, or Service Engine Soon lights to light. I only see Anti-Lock, Temp, and Oil can. You think it's a loose connector, or something, with that many lights out?
  3. So, I got the windshield replaced.....Safelite did a good job. And insurance covered it....$1,761.00 !!! Ouch. I'll try to remember to post a pic.
  4. So, my windshield is cracked, and being in NY (with our annual inspections) I need a new one. I’m going to claim through insurance, I hope it’s covered. So, I’m not sure where to begin. If anyone has suggestions, I’d really appreciated it. I’m assuming Pilkington is still the only manufacturer? Do I contact a safelite-type of glass shop, and they’ll procure it from Pilkington? Are there any instructions for the rubber molding? Or does the new windshield come with replacement rubber?
  5. I too, just had Eddie Voland fix my CRT. I'm soooo happy now...it's absolutely perfect. Best $175 I've spent on the car! Mine used to get the intermittent "squigglies" (shown below). p.s. Has anyone else noticed that if you do a search for "CRT" on this forum, nothing comes up? Or, am I doing something wrong?
  6. I've done the capacitor replacement repair a few years back.....it worked great. But now my radio volume seems to die-out....and appears to be temperature-related. If the car is sitting in the sun, there's no volume at all. Or, if the car isn't too hot, it will last a little while before the volume fades away. Did anyone have this problem?
  7. So, I picked up the car from the shop, and it feels perfect. They claim that the disassembled the bearings, greased them, and re-assembled them. I wouldn't be surprised if they simply installed them upside down, the first time; and now just reversed them, and charged me for the labor to re-install them.
  8. Update: I jacked-up the front wheels off the ground, and with the engine running I grabbed a front tire (wheel) and manually rotated it while watching the strut. You can see & hear the coil spring and top spring seat flange skip & squeak as you turn the wheel. This is definitely the mount's bearing. That explains why after you make a sharp right turn, the car pulls to the right (and pulls left after left turns); the coil spring retains a torque because the bearing prevents complete/smooth return of the whole strut assembly. So, I returned the car to the shop....they claimed that th
  9. Thanks Ronnie, but that picture is puzzling, as it doesn't seem to show the "bearing" which comes with the mount. The "bearing" is a rather large rubber encapsulated ball bearing assembly, which has a white plastic race on one side. See attached picture. Unless....the "bearing" isn't supposed to be installed at all??? I obviously don't know. I'm hoping someone can clear things up, as the Gabriel tech support told me the opposite as the other post in 2013 for that other member.
  10. I just got the below from Gabriel's customer support. Does this make sense to anyone? Good afternoon, The black surface lays flat on the mount, you should be able to see the white part of the bearing. Regards, GABRIEL RIDE CONTROL LLC David J. DeMunnik Senior Application Tech / Technical Advisor Upate: He just confirmed the below: So, you're saying that the bearing (that's part of the GAB142298 mount) mounts directly underneath the metal mount (that has 3 studs) with the black rubber side facing UP (against the metal mount) and the side with the white plastic race facing tow
  11. It's definitely not the pump. It has to be either the struts (not likely) or the mounts. It only squeaks when the wheels turn (either left or right), and tends to squeak more, the more the wheels are turned. Is it possible to install the bearings upside down? The bearings had a white plastic ring exposed on one side, is this ring supposed to be installed UP or DOWN?
  12. Thanks for the replies. The noise definitely seems to be from the strut mounts, as it only happens when the steering wheel is turned. And it never happened before I had the struts and mounts replaced. Do you think it could hurt anything if I squirt a little thin spray oil around that area?....just to see if any seeps into the bearings?
  13. I had a lot of clunking in the front end, so I assumed it was the original struts that were shot. So, I bought Monroe front struts and Gabriel mounts, and supplied the parts to the shop for install and alignment. When the mounts arrived in the mail, I looked at the bearings that came with them, and noticed that they were rather difficult to turn. I assumed that’s just how they are? Now, when I turn the wheel a lot, I hear a squeaky/rubbing sound. Is that the mount bearings? Does that sound go away? Should I try to spray them with something? The car drives nice, though….all the clunking is
  14. Do they re-use the rubber trim, or does Pilkington manufacture the trim, also?
  15. The gauge seems to be the same on all refill canisters that come with a gauge/hose assembly. Here is a pic. The only difference, is my gauge had a white section in lieu of the blue shown in the pic. I'm thinking I'll hold-off adding more, to see if the system holds the freon........the stuff is very expensive. The first 20 oz can was regular stuff, and then I figured I should add the stuff with the dye, so the next two 12oz cans had the dye in it.
  16. Thanks for the info. Update: So far, I added an entire 20 oz can, which got me just into the "green zone". Then, I added a 12 oz can that brought me up to approx 1/3 into the green zone (i.e. approx 35 psi). I then proceeded to add another 12 oz can, which really didn't seem to raise the pressure much more than the previous 12 oz can. So, being that it was 80F out, should I have kept adding even more, to try to raise it to 45 psi??? I just didn't want to overfill. The a/c seems to be working fine; I'm just right below the "V" section of the adjustable gauge (when it's set to point to 80F)
  17. **Update** Disregard above, I was just very low. I kept adding more, and then the compressor stayed on. I won't be surprised if I have a leak. System seemed completely empty
  18. Ok, I need help. I hooked up the refill container (that has a gauge), and it read 0 psi. My code also was now B447 (was B446). So, I turned on AC and started adding. The compressor was clicking on and off every second, and when it did that, the engine rpm's would race up to 1200 and then back to 800. While the compressor clicks on and off, the gauge would go from 0 psi to around 25 psi (basically in the white zone, below the green zone) while I wasn't filling. I continued to add, and the compressor still clicked on and off. I had to keep clearing the BCM codes, to turn the AC on again.
  19. I can't find anything on a "cooling chart". Do you have any more info on that? Thanks.
  20. Thanks for the tips! Yes, the fitting on the accumulator looks just like a "shop air" quick disconnect, with NO external threads. It does have internal threads, which is what the plastic cap picks-up when screwing that on. So, it sure looks like it was converted.
  21. I got the "Low Refrigerant" warning on the CRT, and it seemed to set a B446 code. To my surprise, it looks like the car WAS converted to 134a, because the port on the accumulator looked like the new style. It had internal threads, and a plastic cap on it. Anyone have tips/instructions on how to add freon? Where is the port located, to hook-up the can? Etc. etc.
  22. Yes, I'm positive it's the original AC compressor. I believe it was topped off, when my mother owned it from 1989 to 2005-ish. I only saw B446 code, and I believe the compressor was still running, air was still cool. More Q's: 1. Is it worth doing the conversion to R-134a? Or, is that expensive, or will that open "a can or worms", etc.? 2. Is there a specific fitting that I should look at, to determine if it's still R-12. I just don't remember my mom ever getting it converted, and I don't see any conversion sticker.
  23. Ok, I'll take a look. Is there something that's worth trying before I bring it in? Could I add refrigerant myself?
  24. The other day, I got the "Low Refrigerant" warning on the CRT, and it seemed to set a B446 code. My mother (original owner) gave me the car in 2006, and I have had no problems with AC until now. I don't believe she ever had it converted to R-134a. I vaguely remember her needing to get some added, either once or twice, many years back....but basically the system has worked well. Since I have very little knowledge on auto AC systems, where do I even begin? Are shops still able to add R-12?
  25. The motor is "overworked", I'll agree with that. But, there doesn't necessarily have to be anything wrong/broken with your brake system, for these motors to "overwork". My opinion.......people are sometimes pushing the design to the limits. When compounding very heavy traffic, high ambient temps, AC adding more heat, and maybe the overall age/condition of the motor, people can get these to overheat and stop working. My system seems fine; accumulator, switch, and relay have been replaced. But, I would not guarantee that I'll never have another occurance of the motor overheating. I'll just
×
×
  • Create New...