Avanti R2, 1963, refresh

[unimogjohn]

Yes, it is a 1954 Kaiser Darrin. Here is a good write-up about the car. 1954 Kaiser Darrin Images, Information and History | Conceptcarz.com

[HotWheels]

John,

I just came across this European 63 Avanti R2 originally sold in Italy for sale. Check it out...the pics all enlarge

http://www.connorsmotorcar.com/63Studebaker.html

[unimogjohn]

Tom, thanks, that is one nice Avanti. $20K for a paint job, wow! And I am thinking that $2K is expensive, and that is what I have budgeted. I am sure that it will find a good home.

It is Sunday, May 9th. I had a couple of free hours today so I thought I would attempt to straighten the throttle rod. The threaded portion had a kink in it, which makes it hard to get a smooth idle adjustment. In addition, the spring in front of the engine was not strong enough to bring the throttle back to the idle stop, almost, but just a mm short. This made the idle high at times as the throttle did not always return to the stop.

First, I managed to straighten the throttle rod, and then I cut off about six rounds off the spring to make it a bit tighter. Now it adjusts nice and smooth. I also reset the throttle kicker, idle, and throttle/transmission stop. Here is a pic of the final result.

For some reason, the engine does not want to immediately re-fire if the engine is warm, like sitting an hour or so. I think that it is a choke issue, so move the auto choke another notch richer to see if that makes a difference. It is now set at the two clicks rich off of center mark. The engine started right up, we will see if it does the same tomorrow.

I also got a couple of drips out of the thermostat housing. I tightened up both bolts. If this does not stop the little drips then I will pull it and put in a double thick gasket and more sealer. The car ran nice and cool yesterday.

Edited May 10, 2010 by unimogjohn (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

It is Monday, May 10th. Wow, another nice day to work on the farm. But I did get to squeeze in an hour on the Avanti. I noticed that the distributor was leaking a little oil from where it meets the block. I could not get a wrench on the distributor bolt a few days ago so I knew that it was probably loose. So I looked through a bunch of old tools and found a long, box 1/2 wrench. I heated the shaft with a propane torch and was able to easily bend it to the correct shape for getting at the bolt. Worked great and was able to get it to really seat good. This might have been the problem with the timing dancing around a bit. I plan to take her out tomorrow for a drive so will see if this helped anything. Here is a pic of the wrench.

Decided that I would now tackle the replacement of the rear, round cross member at the very back of the Avanti, under the trunk/spare tire. So tomorrow plan to order the cross member and a couple of exhaust hangers from Don Simmons of Ontario, Canada. Remember I bought the SS pipes from the mufflers from him. They were a great fit. The existing cross member is about half eaten away, but still strong enough to support the back of the trunk.

Edited May 10, 2010 by unimogjohn (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

Greg continues to work on his maroon Avanti. He is getting ready for an engine dyno test for his newly built R2 engine. Here is his report and a pic.

"Getting ready for the engine analyzation. Some hardware being prepared. The new downpipes simulate the standard pipes, but will allow the installation of some sensing devices. Today I had Midas bend the pipes, and I machined flanges and tacked them in place.

Also required are two front motor mount adapters, quick and dirty. The back plate to his engine mounting (dyno platform) will need to be drilled (tomorrow) for my bell housing bolt pattern."

[Guest stude8]

When you pull the expansion tank and thermo housing check the mtg flange surface with a straight edge for trueness. I recall using a shop belt sander to sand the flange flat to get a good sealing effect with the gasket on some of the Avanti's I had. Yes, a good quality heavy gauge gasket well sealered with Permatex will help also.

Stude8

[unimogjohn]

Well, Greg continues on his quest to get the R2 engine ready for it dyno testing. Here is his report along with a couple of pics.

"Went shopping during lunch today. Scored the 1/8" pipe thread fittings for the EGT sensors and also the 18mm bungs for reading the air/fuel ratio.

Decided to braze them in place on the pipes because it was quick and dirty, and I don't anticipate Lee punishing my engine to the point that he melts the brass. I outdid myself when doing the brazing. Didn't do a very good job of sanding off the aluminized coating on the pipes, so the result is my sloppiest brazing job ever.

With that done, it dawned on me that I needed to find an easy way to measure boost pressure and maybe boost temperature. Made a temporary door for the carburetor enclosure. Drilled and tapped for a couple 1/8 NPT fittings. I guess the fittings for fuel pressure is next. Also need to fabricate a seal where the fuel line enters the carb enclosure.

The testing date not yet determined."

[Scotts_DG8]

I’ve got to imagine that between the postings of your efforts to put together a clean driver along with the posting of Greg’s more complicated and complete restoration there becomes a desire at times to do something similar with your own. Just thinking out loud… In a way your efforts are right on as you will have saved so much and have the enjoyment of driving the car not fretting over your first stone chip when it occurs. And, just to let you know that it’s been following your efforts, along with seeing Greg’s restoration, the magic that Dean’s performed on his Hupp, not to mention the efforts of several others here have been a motivation to my beginnings of my own efforts. You’ve really pulled together a nice looking driver, enjoy your car. Scott…

[unimogjohn]

Scott, thanks for the comments. I do admire Greg and what he is doing, but actually I like the look and feel of an original car. So I am happy with my driver. And Alice says she will not drive it if it looks too pretty. After all, we are all old(er), but young at heart.

It is Wednesday, May 12th. Just some quick updates. I drove the car around the back roads and could not feel any missing. Maybe the carb adjustments made and the tightening of the distributer caused a miracle to occur. I think I have to get it out on the freeway to be sure.

I also found the source of the leak around the thermostat. It is not the thermostat housing, it is coming from the upper neck as it goes into the expansion tank. It is not much, like a very slow seep, just a bit of wetness.

I talked to Don Simmons this morning and ordered the crossover tube for the rear end. He did not have any in stock, but would make a few up in a couple of days. No big rush anyway, it is just on the "to do" list. Also ordered the four exhaust hanger rubber straps. Mine are brittle and cut in half in spots. Time now to replace them.

Found a chrome top for the air cleaner. Mine now is the top of a gallon paint can painted silver. How rude! Summit Racing has an air cleaner assembly with a nice top that will fit the Avanti. So bought that for $20 total. Will try to sell the parts I do not need on Ebay. It is Mr Gasket 1486.

And I ordered the correct spark plugs for the engine. They should be here in a couple of days.

[unimogjohn]

Greg is busy. He is getting ready to get ready so to speak for the dyno test of his R3 engine. Here is his report and pictures.

"Plan A dyno test.

So here I am in someone else's field. Yes, I sometimes get to spend time in the dyno cell for my day job. Learning to sort out the various series' of Wright Brothers engines and testing my work.

But making power with a supercharged Studebaker is a little different. So I try to learn what I can from those who do this kind of work. Friend Lee is very skilled at it, it's his job.

Another old friend is John E. Brilliant engineer, machinist, Studebaker guy. So I call him. He asks "What's the good news?". The upcoming test might be good news. Or bad. A lot of sadness happens in the dyno room. And somewhere out back there's a lot of wild horses running loose. And waste cans full of broken stuff.

He wants to know how we're going about it. I give him a few things I'd like to document. He gives me some more. I tell him about the downpipes with the fittings. Only one EGT per bank and a long way from the cylinders. Why don't I gather the temperatures at each cylinder like the big boys do? I tell him that I don't want to drill and tap holes in my R3 cast iron headers. He says something to the effect "Don't do that you dummy, put spacers in between the heads and the manifolds. Drill them for the EGT probes. To this I reply "Oh". It pays to have friends in high places.

Pics of tonight's project, making the spacers and with them installed. The 1/8" holes are for the temperature probes to enter.

Now , where was I?"

[unimogjohn]

It is Thursday, May 13th. It is more than just bling. It bothered me greatly to look at the air cleaner and see the paint can top as the top cover for the air filters. I looked at the Studebaker swap meets for the cover, but could not find any and no one had any suggestions. So now that most of the mechanical stuff is done, I decided to see what I could come up with.

I went through several catalogs before I found a chrome cover that was 6 and 1/2 inches in diameter. So bought the Mr. Gasket air cleaner and filter assembly from Summit Racing yesterday. Today it came, and I put it on. I am happy now. Looks great and really finishes the engine bay. No more paint can top.

Here is the before and after.

[bhclark]

Probably cheaper than chroming that paint can top!

[unimogjohn]

Greg is getting so close to getting his R3 on the dyno. Now this is getting exciting. Here is his report.

"Not much happening tonight. I was able to unload my engine at Lee's this afternoon. Picked up some fittings and fuel line. Going to install a Tee in the fuel line in place of the inline filter for the test. This is where we will monitor fuel pressure.

Also, I've been advised to make a slight modification to the AFB. I'm told that occassionally the supercharger boost pressure can overpower the secondary butterflies and prevent them from opening. Not that I'm going to go around with my foot through the grille. By removing a swinging link from one side and silversoldering a connection on the other, the spring controlling those butterflies is overruled. So I did it. It can always be undone if desired.

Lee had just finished the assembly of a big inch Ford engine, hung it on the dyno and within a couple minutes of mounting, it was at 7300 rpm. Having been brought up with careful attention to break in period, I still don't see how they can do that. But it is standard practice. Mine is going to get some running in time.

Paxton instructions for break in of R3 & 4 calls for: Never over 4000 for the first 100 miles using 20 wt non detergent MSML oil with a pint of STP. Then change oil and filter. put in 30 wt non detergent MSML and pint STP. At 775 miles the engine is completely broken in and is okay to run up to 7000 RPM. Seems less of a rude awakening.

Pic of carb linkage modification."

[unimogjohn]

It is Sunday morning, May 16th. Did not get much done yesterday, just a little cleaning, scrubbing and polishing of the grill I mounted last week. Got off all the gunk that was discoloring the stainless. Now it looks like a proper grill. We plan on taking the car out for a run today to see if the engine miss/hesitation is really gone. If not, the new plugs came in yesterday, and will go it sometime early next week.

But Greg continues his adventure to get his R3 engine on the dyno. Close yesterday, but no cigar. Here is his report and a pic.

"Began setting up the engine on the dyno dolly. The rear support hadn't been drilled to fit a Studebaker.. How rude! So it was mark, centerpunch, drill, redrill, slot existing holes, etc. Finally got the engine mounted, the flywheel installed, the drive plate screwed to the flywheel, the dolly with engine coupled to the dyno.

I wanted to test fit the exhaust pipes for fit and alterations. Didn't fit and needed alterations. Pic enclosed of the new and improved pipes. Duals.

I go back over tomorrow to begin installation of appurtenances."

[unimogjohn]

Sunday, Greg's engine is on the dyno and has been started. Here is his report. A red letter day for sure.

"Another day of setting up, hooking up, numerous trips to Ace Hardware and Auto Zone.

The progress was interrupted by lunch. A hot dog stuck on a contraption of steel bar, welding rod and hose clamps. Over coals from Lee's yard cleanup campaign. Oh yeah, and baked beans in a pan warmed on a tailgate from an old utility trailer thrown over the fire. And there are so many who get their kicks sitting on the sofa and watching NASCAR on TV.

Anyhow, after chasing fuel and water leaks, and giving it enough choke, it did start. Today's run was for breakin time. It was held to 18-2200 RPM with varied loads applied by the dyno brake . For fifteen to twenty minutes. Engine brought up to temperature and thoroughly heat soaked.

After cooling overnght I will retorque the head bolts, etc and check the valve clearances. Supercharger system will be installed too.

The EGT trick worked well, except for one probe that is malfunctioning. We will swap it out tomorrow. Also, one of Lee's coolant hoses was sucking shut, so it too will get changed.

So far so good. Great to hear it again. I love the smell of burning engine enamel first thing in the morning."

[bhclark]

enough with the engine, I was hoping for pictures of that lunch!

[unimogjohn]

Tuesday, May 18th. There is no free lunch, even junkyard hot dogs and beans. Second day of the engine on the dyno. Still more work to do to get it running right. Must have been an exciting day with supercharger belts flying off the engine. Here is Greg's report.

"Didn't break anything yet, but not a good day for making power. Learning that a lot of things have to be just right for that.

First lesson was that the ignition wasn't happy. Even though the distributor I overhauled (yeah I know...but I don't want to hear it), there was still play remaining between the distributor shaft and the lobe plate. Should have fixed it the first time, but hoped it didn't matter. It does. The play allows the points to do funny things. Brought it home and since there wasn't enough play (about .008") to allow insertion of a bushing, I had to braze up the shaft and machine it to size.

Other lessons were to make sure the hose and piping from the supercharger to the fuel pump are fresh and tight. Enough of an air leak and the engine doesn't want supercharging. Not enough fuel pressure.

Make sure the supercharger pulleys are in close alignment. Belt slip is very very bad. Mine aren't and I chewed up the belts. There is some pulley shimming in my future. And better belts than what I had (NAPA 25-7555). When the belts start slipping you might as well forget it. Everything starts going south.

So as of this point, without numbers at hand, I've got a fresh R2 with less than R1 horsepower."

[unimogjohn]

Still Tuesday, May 18th, and just got Greg's report for the day. So will do a quick update.

The UPS truck came in late too. The SS rear cross member came in along with the four hangers. Tomorrow I will put the car up on the ramp and see if I can get a couple of straps installed. The cross member will have to wait for a few days, looks to be a major project. Will have to cut out the old pipe, grind and prep the frame, and weld in the new. Looks to be a couple of days project for sure. Here is a pic of the pipe and hangers.

And, here is Greg's report. "Spent some time at Lee's this morning but having a hard time remembering what I did. I don't do well first thing in the morning.

Oh yeah, quite a few who stopped by saw the oil filter that I was using and they told me to ditch it. Bad news. They all said to use a Wix. So I picked one up . Cut the old filter apart and didn't find much debris, some flecks of paint. Also with a few runs on the motor, I asked Lee if it was oil change time. "Well yes." So I changed oil too. I'm breaking it in with 10-30 HD Pennzoil. With zddp additive.

Also today I machined a spacer to bring the water pump pulley out to align with the crank pulley and also made a spacer to move the idler pulley.

The distributor is reinstalled. Will pick up new belts tomorrow. Maybe run it again to check things out. And to illustrate how slow I can be. It dawned on me that the time spent on the distributor could have been detoured by trying my Schieffer magneto.

That's all that comes to mind."

[Guest scottyz06]

GREAT FIND !!!!! Thanks for the updates !!!!:cool:

[unimogjohn]

It is Thursday, May 20th. I have to report that Greg just sent me some very bad news. His new engine is toast. He did send me a very short report.

But on my Avanti, I have been driving it every day. It is running great, never fails now to start when cold or hot. There has not been a hint of misfire at 2K rpm now that the distributor is down tight. So I am not going to replace the plugs now, but I do have two sets waiting if I need too. And the coolant seep has stopped. So everything that I wanted to do is really done for now. I still do have a small drip, drip, drip in the power steering; and I have used about a quart of engine oil in 250 miles. I am watching both closely. The car just begs to be driven.

So I am on to other mechanical tasks for now. Going to see if I can get both SHOs running, cleaned up, and back on the road. They have been sitting in the pasture since 2008. Both have 200K miles on them, and they were our commuting cars when we were working. Both have little issues; one no temp gauge readings, and the other has a power steering leak in a hose that is between the firewall and the back of the engine.

Well, enough about me; here is Greg's report.

"The good news is the magneto works fine. The bad news is I wiped out the 288* cam and the new lifters, which wiped out the new cam bearings, the new rod bearings, the new main bearings, and who knows what else .

Trouble is I don't know why.

Bringing it back for teardown."

When I get anything else from Greg I will give you a report.

[unimogjohn]

Update: Here is what Greg said this evening. "As of now uncertain why it happened. Oil pump fine, waterpump fine, everything fine. Now as to my distain of multi-weight oil which I used, having to add zddp, etc. Not fine. Heading back over to pick up the remains."

Oh, and I have gotten a couple of emails asking me to post pics of the white SHO. Here are a couple. Really dirty and grungy, but this is as she is.

[unimogjohn]

Still Thursday, but late. Greg has been busy at his shop. The engine is apart.

Here is his report and pics.

"Pics of: Camshaft. Doesn't look too bad. Measuring across the lobes reveals as much as .075" difference in heights. Don't know what they were to start with.

Tappets and mains took it hard, so did the rod bearings. Might be able to reuse the cam brngs.

The crank will have to go out for regrinding or polishing. It does show some scoring, but I'll leave it to the crank grinder's judgement.

I'll deal with Delta Cam in my day job. Gave them a call about what I could have done wrong. I passed all the questions except one. Did I use new tappets or reground originals? I used new ones.

Anyway, all is not lost. Just a lot of time and money.

If at first you don't succeed. At least I wasn't skydiving."

[30 Hupp]

Ouch!!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Strange...I would also like to know what happens. The bottom of the tappets is not good looking; I suppose that soime debris went in the oil circulation and damaged the main bearings.

I heard some strange stories how to break-in new cam and tappets: let drive immediately the engine at about 2000 rpm for 10 minutes (don't remember exactly how long). To me it's a non-sense as the engines in production were not subjected to such treatment.

[TexRiv_63]

The conventional wisdom for initial startup on a flat tappet engine was that low idle rpm's actually put more load on the new surfaces combined with lower oil pressure and that letting it run in at 1500 -2000 rpms for like 30 minutes actually reduced the load, let the lifters rotate faster, etc. to avoid spalling. I assume that a good moly assembly lube was used on the cam lobes and lifters - also was the valve spring pressure similar to stock? Could also be inferior metal on the components, no matter what its a raw deal for your friend.

[unimogjohn]

Don, I will pass on your comments. Greg does read the blog from time to time, but I doubt he has the time now.

Here is what he reported to me this morning. I so expect a late PM report so hopefully he will have figured out what when wrong with the build.

"I took the crank to Lee's this morning to polish the journals. I could probably reuse it, but since that's what I said last time, I decided to go ahead and have it reground this time.

I called the crank grinder and got a good chewing out for using new lifters on an old cam."

Also, I was amazed, the old SHO battery when to full charge this morning. I have it on a Battery Tender now to continue to slowly top it off. I thought for sure I would be putting in a new battery.

[Scotts_DG8]

I too feel your friend Greg’s pain and frustration. In the engine that I am redoing I am being extra careful but it’s still in the back of my mind but I won’t know until it is all done and running. The cam instructions that came with my cam do specify a break in period saying that you should not start and stop the engine when it has initially been started, specifically saying do not attempt to start the engine unless you are prepared to allow the engine to run at least 30-40 minutes between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm. Another thing that I am only slightly concerned with is that I too opted to have my engine shot peen and am hoping that all my cleaning efforts have chased out any errant peen bits and there is nothing hidden away that will destroy my hard efforts.

I’ll be watching for what the diagnosis is as I continue to learn from everyone’s skills and experiences. I’ll be rooting for Greg the second time around. <O:p</O:pScott…

[unimogjohn]

It is Saturday morning, May 22nd. Looks like the new tappets may have been the issue with the old cam. Here is Greg's report from late last night.

"Progress, some, but not a lot.

Took the crankshaft to Lee's where I chucked it in his lathe and used his journal polisher. The journals looked so-so and I think they'd be ok. But that's what I said last time I polished it, so I dropped it off to be reground. When the machine shop guy learned that I had wiped the cam, he asked me if I'd done something stupid like use new tappets on an old cam. Got a good chewing out.

He had also verified the breaking proceedure of running at fast idle for at least twenty minutes. When I talked to Delta, I asked them about that, since it didn't make much sense to me. Until it was explained that the cam lobes only get lubrication by way of cam bearing runoff and what the crank splashes. Didn't realize, now I do.

This weekend I plan to pull the block outside, remove the oil galley plugs again and get after the thing with the pressure washer. Can't do much else until the crank grinder verifies the journal sizes and then I can begin ordering replacement parts.

That's the latest."

[unimogjohn]

Late Saturday evening. Greg has been busy, but we have been at a big neighborhood farm party. Lots of great food, company, and a huge hot air balloon for everyone to ride in. We took the Avanti over and spent a lot of time telling its story. Coming home in the dark found out that I am still missing a couple of instrument lights, and on high, they look dim, and on low, they all go out. So another thing to chase down and fix.

Here is Greg's report with some good pictures.

"I'd rather have been watching the Soupy Sales TV show. But drug out the cylinder block and hosed it (and myself) with the power washer. A long time. With the various oil gallery plugs out I got it again from all directions. Pic enclosed.

Since I haven't had time to do it to the 304 block, did it too. It's been on the back burner, so I also took the time to get it's reground crank off the floor and with new main bearings, set it in place . Pic enclosed.

Also enclosed is a pic of another reminder to CHECK EVERYTHING no matter how trivial, even if you just took it out of the box. I didn't. Pic is of the original (red) harmonic balancer and the repro (black) one. Nice piece of work by a harmonic balancer manufacturer. Photo'd with the keyways in alignment. Notice the timing marks.

One thing the Studebaker guys seem to agree on is the ignition timing, 34 degrees total. After a few runs we began looking for anything wrong. I thought to pull #1 spark plug and stick a dial indicator down the hole to find TDC. Checked the mark and found that I'd been running the thing at 44 degrees. So I retimed it at 34 with a sigh of relief that I'd found the problem. We were amazed that it didn't make a bit of difference in power (or lack of it). This was prior to pulling the valve cover to measure the valve opening (which led us to the camshaft problem).

So check everything, even the things you don't realize to check."

[unimogjohn]

It is Tuesday, May 25th. Slackers! Looks like both Greg and I are slowing down.

I did get out yesterday and replace two instrument light bulbs. Both bulbs were low enough in the panel that I could get my hand in there to replace them. I then looked for the resistor that controls the high/low of the instrument lights. Found it, and of course it was broken. The wire coil was split in half. So I am on the hunt for a resistor unit.

Just got a note from Greg, so here is his report for Monday evening.

"Pretty quiet here. Trying to get moving again. Today did a test fitting of the set of .010 undersize main bearings in the block so that I could measure the ID. With that information at hand I called the crank grinder with the results. Don't need him to cut to a wrong size.

I called and got more bearings coming. Hopefully they'll be here about the time the crank finds it's way back.

This evening I hand cut a few gaskets. Have yet to decide what I'll do about another cam. Still pretty bummed about the whole thing."

[bhclark]

John, it's a good sign you're slowing down! You've got so much done that you're finding it hard to find something to work on!

[unimogjohn]

Brian, you are right. I just keep looking for something to do, but am down to the little stuff now. But she does get started and/or driven every day.

I did find the high/low resistor for the Avanti's instrument light circuit. NOS for $25 plus shipping. So will go ahead and order it and some extra red tinted light bulbs for the dash.

Greg is waiting for parts so he is pondering what happened to his rebuilt engine, what he did wrong, and what he is going to do with the new engine when he gets it back together. Here is his late Tuesday, May 25th report.

"Tonight I spent some time researching the motor oil without zinc situation. Some pretty good forums going over it. I've decided to change my approach. Some decisions verify my old dog mentality, and that I made some poor choices.

It appears that thanks to the EPA, most oils that display the API rating level on the label might as well have a skull and crossbones as far as older flat tappet engines are concerned. Ever decreasing levels of ZDDP to protect catalytic converters are a death sentence. You can buy over the counter additives to replace it. I did use it in the rebuilt engine. Valvoline racing oil still has it. No API rating because it is for a specialized off road market.

Also read to stick with a straight weight oil, not multi weight. Another mistake on my part to join the twenty-first century. I once sat in on a Harold Sharon seminar where he broached the subject of multi weight, and I remember him saying that the multigrade oils, like 10-30 are merely a10 weight oil with plasticzers. Maybe ok for these new whiz bang roller motors.

Break-in period should be 3000 miles. Recall my amazement of how a fresh engine can be run a few minutes on the dyno and then flogged repeatedly?

So, I haven't yet decided to do about the camshaft, but I've altered my plan and now will stick with it.

However, the trip to the dyno for the first engine was useful in that it accelerated what was going to happen to it, probably twenty miles outside Montello, Nevada, some day in the future. As a result, the fresh engine will pass the dyno and go directly into the car.

Otherwise tonight I disassembled the oil pump to hose it out and blow it dry.

[Bill Stoneberg]

However, the trip to the dyno for the first engine was useful in that it accelerated what was going to happen to it, probably twenty miles outside Montello, Nevada, some day in the future. As a result, the fresh engine will pass the dyno and go directly into the car.

Been there, done that with a new motor except in my case it was a 50 cent rivit that let go. Still lots of damage and noise and grinding. I did find out how nice folks were in Elizabethtown Kentucky though.

[unimogjohn]

It is Thursday evening, May 27th. Tried to order parts from the Meyer family, but they have gone to the big national Stude meet in AZ. They will be gone for three weeks, so my instrument light resistor will have to wait until they return.

But thankfully Greg is still plugging along, abit a little dejected. Here is the progress on his engine today.

"Ever get the feeling you've done this before? Rod and main bearings arrived today. The crank won't be back until next week sometime.

And today is my youngest son Logan's birthday, 27 years. I'd like to get this project done before he retires."

[unimogjohn]

It is Sunday, May 30th. Here is Greg's report. It is now sorta fun to see he is working on all the stuff I did early on, especially the wiring. He has lots of refurbishing to do outside of the drive train. I asked him if he was going to go with the original Bendix disc brakes versus the Turner system. He said that if it was good enough then, it is good enough now. Everything will be original.

What am I doing? Nothing! Just driving it. A great feeling to have a driver again.

Greg says "With the engine on hold until I get the crankshaft back from the grinder, time to return to the other parts of the car.

The trip to the storage hangar for more Avanti parts was detoured to the airport where I helped friend hang the engine on his Stearman. He participates regularly at the local Flying Circus, the plane has been down for an overhaul. He's been busy with many of the other details, and he's gaining on it.

This afternoon I spent reworking the wiring harness under the hood. Some wires had cracks in the insulation, several were severed, the harness tape wrapping needed help. Some solder, shrinkwrap and patience, a new grommet and the harness is ready.

Grunt work coming up: cleaning the undercarriage up front; remove and replace the brake system piping.

Tomorrow's another day."

[unimogjohn]

It is Wednesday, June 2nd. Here is Greg's weekend report.

"Over the weekend I started working on getting the undercarriage cleaned and repainted, ready for the engine installation.

The crankshaft should be returning this week so the bottom end can be assembled. No decision on cam and lifters.

It continues to bother me that I didn't separate the body from the frame, but it could easily drag this project on for another year or two. I have to keep reminding myself, "It's a driver, it's a driver."

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I can comensurate with that!! I did the same to my 50 Buick. But I will only notice if I am underneath the car! Hope to be in the seat more than underneath.

Bad deal on your engine, Greg. Good luck with the next rebuild.

Ben

[unimogjohn]

Here is Greg's report for Wednesday PM. "Still waiting for the crank to come home. I should be ready to drop it in. Tonight you can see that I slid the dingleberry hone through the cylinder bores to drag out any particles and have repeatedly wiped the bores with ATF and paper towels.

Earlier today the original lifters were sent out for regrinding. That way at least I know the alloy was right."

[unimogjohn]

It is Friday, June 4th. Greg finally has all the piece parts to reassemble his engine. Looks that it will be finished by the end of the weekend. I would expect next weekend he might even have it back into the car. Remember, he said that he is not going to dyno this version, and it is going directly back into the Avanti's engine bay. Here is his pictures.

Here is his report. "Picked up the reground .010/.010 crank during lunch, now I'm putting it in its place. I'll post this and then finish torquing the rod nuts and install the Palnuts."

[unimogjohn]

It is Friday, June 5th. Boy is it hot, over 90 degrees, and humid the past four days. We are busy shearing the llamas of their winter coats. Each takes a couple of hours if cooperative, if not, well, lets just say it is unlike being in a wrestling match with a 350 lb critter with four legs who wants to kill you.

But Greg presses ahead, here is his very interesting report and a pic.

"Now that the bottom end is back together, today I took some time to remove a valve spring assembly for inspection. Pictured is the dual spring assembly for the R3/4 optional 288* camshaft. It has been rumored that Paxton used Isky brand. I got this set years ago with the purchase of that pile of R4 parts out of Michigan. Well worn, they were used when I got them, plenty of miles on them since. With valve spring rates at hand, if asked, I can answer in pounds instead of "Don't know".

Also today I made initial contact with someone interesting. Dave Liepelt of the Ford Museum has arranged for me to communicate with a Ford Motor Company retiree who had spent thirty years doing dyno work with Ford, McLaren and Rousch. His specialty has been engine lubrication and wear. Today he called me, but I was on the road here in the foothills of the Blue Ridge, so wasn't much of a conversation. Very promising though.

As I get my thoughts together, I'll ask his opinion on the choices I made. He will probably verify my belief in the 50 - 50 - 90 Rule (if you have two choices, you'll make the wrong decision 90 percent of the time). So I'm looking forward to this exchange and perhaps we can learn something to avoid more destruction. We are fortunate to have several on board who have engineering training and also shop time. This is part of the process of choosing my replacement cam, lifters and springs.

Will keep you posted."