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honey-comb radiator repair


John Hamilton

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Honey-comb radiator has a large leak inside the shroud where it can't be reached. The radiator shops say applying heat to the old solder will make it evaporate and that the old method of dipping in solder isn't permitted now.

Any suggestions? The radiator is exposed and a new replacement will be obvious. Thanks.

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Yes, expensive and not always done correctly. I just saw a 29 Dodge with a new H/C core that cost the guy a "bundle". (his words)

The Dodge as well some Mopars like 28/29 Ply, 29 & 31 DeSoto, and 29/30 Chrys had a very thin profile looking at the front of the radiator shell. Then the new core must be carefully trimmed and positioned so that the seams to the tanks don't show. On this Dodge, they showed badly. frown.gif

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The Filling Station has honeycomb cores. They sell for Chevys but if you give them the deminsions of yours they can get one for you.

I bought one from them about 4 years ago and it looks good and fits good. I have not had a problem with it. If there is a problem it's me having a heart attack everytime someone touches it. They ain't cheap.

Give them a call and see what all they say.

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No company in the US has the equipment to reproduce the core you are looking for including the Filling Station. All US companies buy direct from overseas and sell them to you for a marked up price. There are three companies that I know of who make the cores. Two are in England and the other in Australia.

I bought mine direct from the Vintage Car Radiator Co. www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk. The core alone (which was an odd iregular shape) was $1300.

If money is an issue, you can have a modern core made for a lot less money and have a slice of the old radiator put in front of the new to make it look original. Universal Carnegie Manufacturing can make the new core, slice the old rad for the false front and rebuild the unit for you. They do a good job.

There is also a retired gentleman in Chilicothe Ill. who is well known for his skill in rebuilding old radiators. His name is Bill Lemaster and has endless knowledge of the antique radiator. He was contacted by the Smithsonian in D.C. to fabricate a radiator for one of their airplanes and it is my understanding the unit came out perfect. His number is 309-645-0606

Dan

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There are indeed several companies in the US that CLAIM to manufacture honeybomb cores but as far as I can determine they all source them from England. I noticed that the place in NY we always used could never give us an immediate price but had to call back the next day. Being a generally suspicious person I suspected they were phoning England for a price so I called the manufacturee in England directly and lo and behold their price was exactly 50% TO THE PENNY of the price I was quoted for a "Made in America" core. I would love to be proved wrong about this if anyone can do so. We have installed maybe 12 new honeycomb cores over the years and I believe every one came from the same source in England. They are NOT easy to install, especially if the core has angles to the top corners.

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Mercy! That's what I was afraid of. This radiator is for a Ford V8-60 which powers a 1937 Hobart welder. Since it's stationary the radiator is about 36 X 24 X 6. I think the new radiator with a slice of the old one might be just right.

I think I know Mr LeMaster from my days in St Louis and will give him a call too.

Thanks to all.

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Guest Paterson Chris

Hey, wait a sec --

This place that a guy told me about in San Luis Obispo, Cal -- thebrassworks.net -- advertises as making it's own honeycomb radiators. When times get better and I have money again I was thinking of using them to duplicate the original (but marginally functional) one on my Paterson. Are these guys a bunch of fakers too?

Chris

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Paterson Chris</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey, wait a sec --

This place that a guy told me about in San Luis Obispo, Cal -- thebrassworks.net -- advertises as making it's own honeycomb radiators. When times get better and I have money again I was thinking of using them to duplicate the original (but marginally functional) one on my Paterson. Are these guys a bunch of fakers too?

Chris </div></div>

About 10 years ago I was in the market for a new Auburn style core and called The Brass Works. At that time they could not do the repair for me as they did not have access to the appropriate core. I guess they could have started making cores but I suspect it is more likely that they found a source for the cores.

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Ask them if you can come in and tour their production facility. They will more than likely give you the brush off if they don't produce them. Like Restorer32 says, there are a lot of US companies that CLAIM to produce these cores but in fact get them from overseas and put the mark up on them.

In all my research before having my core reproduced, I could not find a US company that made these cores even though you will find them advertised everywhere. It is my understanding that most of the dies were destroyed after the market no longer was in need of these radiators. The very few that remained ended up in England where most are manufactured today.

Gerry from Universal Carnegie Manufacturing in Pittsburg told me in October of 2008 that he was close to obtaining the dies and equipment needed to reproduce these cores. However, I don't think the pricing will come down all that much because he knows that he will have the market cornered in the US.

Dan

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I think you will find that Brassworks obtained everything from the old Rome-Turney radiator Co in NY state, who made radiators and replacement radiators going back a century. There was an article on them in HCCA Gazette probably 15 years ago. The gentleman had deliberately kept every bit of pattern and tooling, and if your needed a radiator for something as rare as an SGV, they could still make it as they had made the originals. Eventually everything was sold to California.

A few months ago I had to help David Dryden with a bad problem of major leakage round some tubes of the new US- built radiator of his 1909 T Ford. The solder was imperfect where they entered the bottom tank, and he really didn't was to dismantle the whole thing to fix it.

I improvised a thin, long nozzle of thin wall stainless steel tube for a little pot-type sandblast gun which is often handy. With glass bead medium I had to block the air bleed hole in the pot; and use an interrupted trigger so the beeds would go through, which they did most effectively. The nozzle was small enough to get rigt in there; and by cutting an appropriately narrow strip of 22g panel steel, and bending it to curve right around the defective tubes, we were able to clean everything perfectly, even where you cound not normally reach or see.

I have a soldering tip about 1/2"diameter and 3"long, which clamps to the body of a bottle-gas heating torch. I drilled a hole in this fron ene to end with a number drill just above 1/8" diameter into which I fastened 1/8"copper welding wire with a grub screw. This was a conveient length to reach, and was also bendable to solder in behind. David took it all home and soldered the leaks with no difficulty. One useful thing to remeber is that the the welting temperature of solder varies according to its composition. Buy solder with the lowest melting temperature so you do not interfere with other joints.

(You add solder to the tinned wire where you can reach it, and it will run to the point where you need it). I apologise that I haven't learned how to post photos yet, because it would save a bit of writing. Ivan Saxton

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  • 2 years later...
Guest Packguy

Fuel Tank and Radiator Service in Brisbane, Australia manufactures honeycomb cores. The owner, Greg Stevens has been in this and other related businesses for years. I have visited him in Brisbane and seen the operation. It is a small one man operation as Greg is semi retired, but the quality is flawless. If you need a new radiator, I would recommend you get in touch with him. His website is Fuel Tank and Radiator Service - Homepage. There is a video on that site showing how the cores are made.

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I know this is an old post but for anyone interested there is another alternative and that is Adrad radiators in New Zealand.

Have a look at their site below and click on vintage radiators. I have been told that their prices are very reasonable.

Adrad National Radiators - Products

Like Restorer32 a couple of years ago I went on a quest to see who could repair my 1928 Fedders honeycomb radiator for my Durant. It is a rare model that uses an off size so finding a good replacement is almost not possible. I emailed a place called Maine Radiator, The Brassworks, the place in New Zealand and the New Zealand location referred me to the United Kingdom. I emailed them and they quoted me about 1,300 Pounds which at the time was around $1,900 dollars for them to rebuild my radiator. Added to that was the cost of shipping to the United Kingdom and UPS wanted at that time around $350.00. Maine Radiator quoted me around $2,000 to do the restoration. The Brassworks quoted me around $1,200 depending on what had to be done, so I assume that it also would cost me around $1,900 dollars to have it reconstructed. I don't like the idea of shipping my rare radiator over to the United Kingdom since if it's lost or misplaced I have a tough time tracking it and trying to get it back. I'm not at that point yet, but I'll probably go with the Brassworks. I know they get their cores from the UK but at least shipping is less and they have been in business for a long time.

On another note, you have to be careful with a suggestions someone made about putting a modern core in and just putting a honeycomb on the outside. If you are going to show it at an AACA event a Judge will pick up on that and you will lose points. My 2 cents worth.

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As a judge, How do you guys know if the car had a honeycomb or flat fined style? If a 1931 Dodge(honeycomb original) showed up with a conventional flat finned rad and was installed with fine craftsmanship, who would deduct points? Where is the list of vehicles denoting what style radiator every car was delivered with? Even if a judge did suspect the wrong style was installed, how would you prove( actually disprove) that you are right and the owner is wrong. Thin ice here, guys.We are looking for period correct, not Bloomington Gold. Even IF, what would the deduction be? Is the deduction worth $2k on a Dodge or Durant?

BTY Brassworks is good. I bought an original style rad for my 31 Ford. Perfect job.

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As a judge, How do you guys know if the car had a honeycomb or flat fined style? If a 1931 Dodge(honeycomb original) showed up with a conventional flat finned rad and was installed with fine craftsmanship, who would deduct points? Where is the list of vehicles denoting what style radiator every car was delivered with? Even if a judge did suspect the wrong style was installed, how would you prove( actually disprove) that you are right and the owner is wrong. Thin ice here, guys.We are looking for period correct, not Bloomington Gold. Even IF, what would the deduction be? Is the deduction worth $2k on a Dodge or Durant?

BTY Brassworks is good. I bought an original style rad for my 31 Ford. Perfect job.

Actually that problem can occur on lots of areas on cars being judged by the AACA. There is a nice looking '35 Plymouth coupe in my area that has a AACA Junior first on it. Beautiful paint, lovely interior, etc. Same car got a 3rd at a Plymouth Owners Club meet because it had the wrong floor coverings, wrong firewall paint color, and so on. In general, I think the AACA does a better job on judging than the POC but they don't and can't know the specifics of all makes and models where a marque specific club should know.

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