Guest Orphanauto Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am thinging about taking my script emblems off the car to repaint the body. While I have them off, I was wondering how good the electroplating kit from Eastwood is? Has anyone used it? The emblems are not remade, therefore, this is about my best option. Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 If the emblems are rare or valuable, have a professional re-plate them. They turn out really beautiful when done right. Plating is an art in itself, but preparation is 90% of a great job.They strip the part of all plating, dig out the rot, then copper plate. From there, you really need talent for the polishing, filling, and finish plating. Too much polishing or plating, will wash-out all your detail.I thought I could polish, until I saw a polisher who does it every day. The only thing I can compare this talent to is drywall mudders. I thought I could do that too, until I saw a guy who does it every day. Many jobs require skills that are only attained by doing it daily. Car painters are in that catagory, too. You can do all these jobs, but the end result won't be as nice, and you will probably spend or waste more than a pro.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 The only Eastwood kit I'm aware of is a tin/zinc kit advertised as giving a "chrome-like" finish. If this is the one you are referring to and your emblems are supposed to be chrome, I do not think this kit would be satisfactory to you. The process used in this kit is far from what is used in chrome plating shops.Check around plating shops in your area for pricing. Some are more than others depending how particular you want to be and if you want a warranty or not. If you have any connections to the motorcycle world, ask around for plating sources. Guys who specialize in plating motorcycle parts typically have a small setup for plating(less overhead)and are accustomed to doing smaller parts and may be less expensive. The guys that are really inexpensive have small plating setups, work for cash and operate under the environmentalist radar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The guys that are really inexpensive have small plating setups, work for cash and operate under the environmentalist radar.</div></div> Which means that when their plating wastes finally do show up where they're not supposed to be (<span style="font-style: italic">They will, eventually.</span>), and they've spent all their money on Rolling Rock and/or disappearing, <span style="text-decoration: underline">their customers</span> (<span style="font-weight: bold">YOU!</span>) will be the ones on the hook for the bill when the cleanup starts. That'll be true if the wastes are left in the building (not too expensive), in the woods (more so), or in the local landfill (Watch out! ). Think it doesn't happen? Construction crews found old pits of this stuff (from the 1960s/1970s) accross the street from the former local EPA/DER inspector's house in Pittsburgh (mine). The debacle helped to bankrupt the developer (because the records determined that there were no "deep pockets" {<span style="font-style: italic">-a less than affectionate term used for the suckers who thought they were saving money at the time-</span>} left among the responsible parties). He eventually lost everything, including his very popular local family restaurant chain. If there were records on the books that had your name and address as one of the people who used this service, you'd be losing your shirt as well. One man's good idea is another's disaster. It's just a matter of how much time before it happens. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">I wouldn't send work to a plater "<span style="font-style: italic">under the environmentalist radar</span>" </span></span>(whatever that means when you're talking about governmental legal requirements) <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">if they were doing the work for free.</span></span></span> My kids might need my money to eat some day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Professional plating companies operate within the guidelines of the EPA. They responsibly neutralize any hazardous waste (potassium cyanide) before disposal. Expensive? Not as bad as you think. Profit robbing? Everything is, when done correctly.Still, chrome electroplating is expensive because of many costs. All the tanks have to be heated, and a lot of rectified electrical power is used. Exhaust fans must run constantly, just so the employees can breathe. Chemicals are expensive. You are buying buffing and plating (time and materials). Good, fast, buffing machines are a certain necessity.THEN, the talent comes in. If your plater is popular (because he's good), you may wait a month for your parts to be finished. It is all custom work that needs to be done right. Operations behind the scenes are many, so when you see a beautifully chromed piece, it didn't happen by accident.Some plating shops can ruin your pieces, so pick a good-reputable one. In this case, you definitely get what you pay for. Good platers work TO YOUR satisfaction, guaranteed. Not-so-good platers give out "pot-luck" (however it turns out, that's what you get).My plating shop never lost a single piece of mine, yet I hear horror stories from other restorers. My parts are non-reproduced classic pieces I can't buy any more. Your plating shop must operate with that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poci1957 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 When I saw the post I thought it must be a different kit because the only one I knew of was the zinc kit. I used it for some underhood zinc plating and liked it fine, but I agree with JZRIV that I think it would be unsuitable for use on a decor item like a chrome nameplate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> One man's good idea is another's disaster. It's just a matter of how much time before it happens. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">I wouldn't send work to a plater "<span style="font-style: italic">under the environmentalist radar</span>" </span></span>(whatever that means when you're talking about governmental legal requirements) <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">if they were doing the work for free.</span></span></span> My kids might need my money to eat some day. </div></div>Dave,If you go back and read my post, my statement in no way supports, recommends, or promotes using a plater that operates under the radar. I merely stated that they exist. I have faith that the type of people, incuding me, who frequent this forum, have enough intelligence not use such a plater. With all due respect your reply was based assumptive emotions rather than fact, and in my opinion is uncalled for and offers no value to the forum. I noticed from your other posts you like to stir controversy. Your post in no way offers relativity or a contributive nature to orpahautos original topic. It bothers me to even have to post this response unrelated to the topic because it goes against my nature.....but I do not appreciate your antagonistic tone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orphanauto Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I appreciate all the imput, I can see the differenrt views. The car I am going to repaint is my 53 Kaiser manhattan, original colr of course. I want to do a great job, so I will take the trim carefully off. The sript name plate "Kaiser" and "Manhattan" are NOT reproduced. Therefore, I was wondering about using the Eastwood kit to replate it, as I don't want to take a chance of it being broken, lost at a plater, or being so expensive, that I could do it myself with this kit. Having read your post, I agree I need to get a professional plater, such as Pauls chrome, ect.. I read a article recently, that said you can do alot of things yourself, but when it comes to plating, you get what you pay for. my wallet didn't want to hear that, haha, but.. Let's do it right and preserve history. you can see the Kaiser on my site. Thanks for the imput. Would like to hear from anyone who has used these kits though, just to hear how it went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skyking Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Orphanauto, I see you mentioned Paul's Plating......My son recently did an extensive restoration on a 1957 Cadillac. The owner is extremely fussy and used Pauls for all his chrome & stainless needs. Pauls did a outstanding job on the front fender Cadillac emblems. These are very fragile parts. I'd be afraid to even buff them.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Hey guys, these kits are all over the net. None of them sell the good stuff, because mail order companies won't take responsibility for shipping hazardous, carcinogenic chemicals abroad.The kits they sell are trivalent chrome, and I can tell the difference by just looking at it. It's bluish-colored chrome, not bright, creamy chrome.Go here and read about Chromic Acid (hexavalent chrome) and the liability involved. Scroll down to "Do it yourself?":Finishing.com As it turns out, if you ever get licensed, you're tagged for life, and you must keep records forever, even if you GIVE AWAY your fine work. That's better left to the professionals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bkazmer Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 plus the cyanide chelating agent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 chemical waste on property, per EPA when I called about a piece of property I was interested in and found out it had a major pesticide spill and in ground fuel tank (can you say crop duster operation) their answer is that if you buy you own it you are the responsile party that the buck stops at the present owner..I cannot in any manner think that I could be responsible for another parties business tactics just because he did work for me...while this is not condoning the operation of the fly by night guy..I personally think this is scare tactics to channel business...cradle to grave chemical trail is needed and therefore I agree the outlaw plater should have more accountability...and I can say I will probably be responsible for the mess in form of taxes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bkazmer Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 there is a means to buy a "brownfield" site with known contamination without acquiring the remediation responsibility. You have to assess the current level and the use is restricted to make it no worse. Permits, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Several years ago a local long out of business trash dump site was labeled a Superfund site and past large scale users of the dump were required to contribute to the cleanup. It is definitely not scare tactics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 I can see where a land fill could pass expenses..these are tracked site and have non hazard agreements in place...should large contributors be found dumping hazmat and traced to their wastestream, then by signed agreement not to dump said material they are found in violation thus the imposed fine/fees for cleanup..much the same you would incur should you dump oil at a landfill admist your daily household trash..about the brownfield loophole..that would have been nice to know..however in the contract I was to get the area cleaned and the contaminated dirt hauled away to proper disposal area..found instead that it was spread out on the 25 acres I intened to buy and what was worse..all along the adjoining propety's fish pond...pulled my contract and ran like the wind.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Plymouthy,Do you have any info on the original question: Eastwood's plating system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 No I have not used the system..checked into it once but as everyone else could get no more information that what is posted on the website..I decided that the lack of information and skirting of chemical disposal issues was enough to stop the look see...I only spoke up because of the what I thought was the implied scare tactics used by others...and they are valid to a point...plus searching the web for other plating sytems there are those out there that say if you stay at a certain chemical level you will no be considered by the EPA a plater per say and not subject to regs...I do not believe this either and could very well get your shipping address confirmed over to a watch group..these are very dangerous carcengeic chemical..I just don't see even small vats operating without regulation..even buying lye today requires a signature for anyone that cleans cast iron... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Plymouthy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.even buying lye today requires a signature for anyone that cleans cast iron... </div></div>Interesting that you would mention that. I purchased lye a month ago from the local hardware to strip the anodize from my aluminum trim and there was nothing to sign or questions asked!Probably the quantity has something to do with it!impala Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 might be a local thing also...you cannot go into a store down here anymore and get the one pound cans of Red Devil lye or any other for that matter..it is no longer distributed...O searched for years for a hot tank..finially found a hot tank..no outlet for lye...figure the odds eh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I'm going to start a new topic: What Chemical is Best for Rust Removal (without flash rusting).You mentioned lye. I know that takes off paint, grease, dirt, etc. The best rust remover I found so far is muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid). The problem is, it flash rusts as soon as it dries.Pertaining to this thread, all rust has to be gone before any home kit can be used to plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Lye tank activated with a heating coil and the cast iron comes out looing like new castings..I do more shetmetal stripping than cast iron..and I use what I consider a less caustic but more effective acid, Phosphoric..I buy it from chemical supply at 85% pure..mix you own solution, I will sandblast or DA a panel based on it condition at start, when finished I will spray my mixture on the panel..let it set a minute..(keep it damp at all times) I will next go over the entire panel with the acid and sandpaper...then a quick rinse with water when Ihave the panel sanded..quci blow dry..yes you will get flash but now you take a cloth lightly dampened with the phosphoric mix and wipe the rust right off..like a magical eraser...let the light film dry...this will protect the metal till you are ready to prime...I then use a 3M scruffy pad and go over the panel prior to starting my prime process..keep phosphoric metal off non ferrous metals...you can take a car that has surface rust and a 3M pad and wash it with phosphoric acid..the rust will be gone and the paint remains..phosphoric acid is the safest media to use not on for the metal but for the user as well..it reacts with rust..not clean metal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I got a 1-qt spray bottle of "THE MUST FOR RUST" (phosphoric acid) at Home Depot. After doing a few small parts, they look just like your front clip! No rust, but a protective film of phosphate salt left. I'm used to using HCL without sanding first. With phosporic acid, if you don't sand (wire wheel) first, it doesn't work as well and takes forever. I will ask my plating guy where to buy your stuff. Thank you for sharing. Your picture is really helpful, too. You are the only one who responded about using lye. Thanks again, Plymothy. - Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Orphanauto Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I've learned alot from your pos guys, thanks. It begs the question, How do I make ( or have made ) a pattern for new script. I'll start a new post for that, keep it coming, I am learning alot from you all. Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JZRIV</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> One man's good idea is another's disaster. It's just a matter of how much time before it happens. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">I wouldn't send work to a plater "<span style="font-style: italic">under the environmentalist radar</span>" </span></span>(whatever that means when you're talking about governmental legal requirements) <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">if they were doing the work for free.</span></span></span> My kids might need my money to eat some day. </div></div>Dave,If you go back and read my post, my statement in no way supports, recommends, or promotes using a plater that operates under the radar. I merely stated that they exist. I have faith that the type of people, incuding me, who frequent this forum, have enough intelligence not use such a plater. With all due respect your reply was based assumptive emotions rather than fact, and in my opinion is uncalled for and offers no value to the forum. I noticed from your other posts you like to stir controversy. Your post in no way offers relativity or a contributive nature to orpahautos original topic. It bothers me to even have to post this response unrelated to the topic because it goes against my nature.....but I do not appreciate your antagonistic tone. </div></div>Jason,Incredibly well said. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Jason changed the wording of his original post to make it read less like a recommendation for "cheap platers". I responded very angrily when he he made the claim he wasn't recommending them, when he clearly <span style="text-decoration: underline">was</span> by the structure of the (then third) paragraph of his post. That post was deleted within hours, and this one probably will be as well. It seems that at least one of the moderators has a personal thing with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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