1932 DL6 brake drum removable-

[Guest outlaw car man]

OCM here starting on the brakes of my DL6.

Master cylinder topped off, getting ready to bleed the system.

I've done brakes before on cars, enough to know it's a pain in the rear-end. Been 10 years since I've messed with brakes-

Started to pump the system up and found a leak in the rear passenger side, most likely a wheel cylinder gone bad, drips from inside the drum, it appears.

Starting to pull the drum off, stuck pretty tight- Got a puller on it. Before I start cranking down on the puller and maybe heating up with a torch,any suggestions. Or proceed ?

I've seen chunks of drums broke off from a puller, don't want to go there-

Just being cautious, NAPA doesn't sell 32 DL6 drums !

Thanks in advance.

OCM-

[keiser31]

Wood wheel or wire wheel car? Does the drum turn? Are the brake shoes adjusted away from the drum as far as they can be?

[keiser31]

You talk about "chunks of drums broke off from a puller". Are you using the type of puller that goes to the outer edge of the drum?

[Guest outlaw car man]

Wood wheels, drum turns nicely, adjustments screws are froze, have power blaster on them now.

Seem to be clean wheels, not rust buckets or anything-

thanks-

[Guest outlaw car man]

Yes, it's a gear puller, not the 3 arm one, just two arms. I've used it in the past. ( warp the drum?)

I've got it snugged down, but not real tight yet. Soaked everything in PBR, letting it sit overnight.

Really don't want to fire up the propane next to the gas tank.

dumb but not stupid.... yet-

Thanks-

OCM.

[keiser31]

If those adjustment bolts are frozen, the brake shoes and drum could be grooved and holding the drum on. I would address the shoe adjustment issue before pulling or you may rip some parts off of the backing plate.

[nearchoclatetown]

If your wheel urns, It doesn't seem to be the shoes that are holding it. Did you put a little presure on the puller and give it a wack?

[Guest Backyardmechanic]

HI,

There a puller for this wheel that screws on where the hup cap fits with a bolt thu the center of puller.You will warp the drum with a gear puller for sure.I'd suggest for you to take a hub cap to a machine shop and have a puller made to do the job right.

Until next Time,

Vern

[Dana J]

More than likely your going to have to heat it up with a torch. Use a rosebud tip and get it pretty hot. Make sure to jack the car up on that side so you've got it on an angle. After it's good and hot apply bees wax (Toilet seal ring purchased at hardware store)to the axle and the heat will draw it in. Should work. Just getting ready to do mine. Good luck!

[Dana J]

Oh by the way, be careful. Had one break loose and flew about 8 feet.

[dwollam]

Leave the nut without the washer screwed on the axle a little ways and you won't have the drum fly off. I agree with Vern too. Should really have a puller that threads on the hub cap threads. Another way if it is drivable is loosen the axle nut just a little and drive in a circle turning to the side that you want off. Should pop loose pretty quick. Works every time for me. I have a circular driveway so I'm not on the road.

[Guest outlaw car man]

wheel turns easy, so was guessing the shoes are not hug up in the brake drum ? AND, no scraping noise or anything from inside.

-The drum also seems to be holding back with a spring-like feel?

Thanks-

OCM

[Guest outlaw car man]

I've just started using pressure- I'm thinking of going to Harbor Freight and getting a three arm drum puller, rather then the two arm one I have- balance pressure a bit.

If I insert a screw driver between the drum & the back plate, it opens up a bit, but SPRINGS back.

Possible cause, hanging up on the brake shoe return spring, I don't see how tho ?

I have smacked it a bit.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Dave thanks- GOOD ADVICE, to young to wear dentures-

Don't understand hub cap threads ? I'm on a 1932 DL6 .

There is a grove on the brake drum that the gear puller hooks onto.

OCM

( pretty much all my teeth )

[JACK M]

I would not pull on the outside of the drum. Use a puller that attaches to the lug studs. <span style="color: #CC0000">(although you are past that part as the </span><span style="color: #CC0000">drum is loose from the axel). </span>The spring feeling that you mention is the drum hanging on the shoes. You will need to figure out how to back them off.

The more I ponder this you are done with the puller.

You need to get the shoes backed off.

[keiser31]

Again...you need to back off the shoes. They could be grooved along with the drum which sometimes allows the drum to turn, but act as if it is held on with springs. I was a brake mechanic for quite a few years and I have run across this many times. JackM has it right, I believe.

[dwollam]

So does this have a bolt on wheel, like modern cars? If so, that explains no hub cap threads. Has the drum broke loose from the axle already? If so, like Jack said, you need to back off the shoes, that is what is hanging up. The drum gets worn and the shoes are hanging up on the lip where it has not worn as the shoes do not cover the drum 100%. Also if it has the groove around the center of the hub as you indicated, that is the correct place for a puller.

[nearchoclatetown]

But wouldn't that cause a dragging sound as he turns the drum? If the drum is on a tapered axle I'd rather believe it's hung up on the taper. The suggestions about a puller on the wheels studs is definately correct.

[keiser31]

Sometimes the shoes do not make noise if they are stuck in one spot.

[Guest imported_Bill-W]

This is a rear drum so it should not come off without using a hub puller.

If you look at the axle end there should be a small groove in it with a matching groove on the brake hub. There should be a small piece of metal called a driveshaft key which holds the hub/drum unit in place on the axle. When you get the drum off you will notice the key is wedge shaped.

And it is that wedge-shaped key that makes it difficult to remove the rear hub and drum unit as it is forced into place when the nut and washer are placed on the axle. The hub/drum is literally wedged into place on the axle.

So, get a good hub/drum puller, the type that bolts to the hub/drum unit and has a spiral bar that is placed at the end of the axle. You will need a hefty hammer to hit the paddle to force the drum off. A decent size sledge should do.

But do not use the type that grips the edge of the drum. Warping the drum is possible, but it's more likely you will break pieces off the edge of the drum.

And don't loose the driveshaft key! The part number is 41110 and was used on Dodge models DA through DI plus DL and DM as well as most Plymouth, DeSoto and Chrysler models from 1928 through 1932. But it won't be easy to find.

Bill

Vancouver, BC

[keiser31]

Bill-W is correct (if the shoes are clear) in the type of puller he mentioned. I would never use an "edge" puller unless a last resort. Even then I would hesitate. When you get the puller that screws on beneath the lugs and hit it with the hammer, STAND BACK AND OUT OF THE WAY because those drums go "BOOM" and fly off sometimes.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Will do, the spreader type puller is out of the equation. Last time I used it was on a 1959 BMW Isetta and nipped a piece of brake drum but had two spares anyway-

I know about the pin and can see it well.

Don't think Harbor Freight carries that type of hub remover, just the spreader type, heading to Auto Zone or Sears.

Thanks all-

Keep ya posted-

OCM.

[JACK M]

A good rental yard may have one. However it sounds as if you have already broken it loose from the axel.

[Guest outlaw car man]

A car buddy came by and said to call Checker Auto, they loan out tools- I called and they do. My friend said he might have one first & he did. It was an old one that his brother had- Lucked out-

Got the drum off in about 10 minutes. Everything looks nice & clean, appears the brakes have been worked on in recent years.

I'm guessing a dried up rubber cup in the slave cylinder-

Supplier said to check which size, older 1 1/4, newer 1 3/8.

Pulling the slave cylinder off, I hope today- ( cold out)

Thanks all. Saved my butt again-

OCM

[Guest outlaw car man]

Ended up removing ALL the wheels and removing the slave cylinders.All had the old brake fluid crystallized inside the cylinders.Most were free except one. I'm honing out the cylinders now, waiting for new kits.Going to repack the bearings all that fun stuff.

Rear is 1 1/4, fronts are 1 3/8. Shoes look OK, one spring was broke, replacing those too. Today is shop clean up day-

Any advice I should know about when re-installing the rear hubs, some tool or something I should be using ? It will be a week before I get back onto it-

Thanks

OCM

[keiser31]

The drums should slide right back on if the shoes are clear. I usually make certain that the shoes are almost touching the drum when re-installing. Then adjust out slightly to correct clearances. the drums should drag just slightly when done adjusting. REMEMBER TO ADJUST BRAKES BEFORE BLEEDING! Otherwise you will defeat the purpose and possibly blow out a cup on the wheel cylinder. When bleeding, always start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder (right rear, left rear, right front and finally the left front). Unless of course you are in New Zealand or Australia with a right hand drive car.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Been about 20 years since I've got this far into brakes-

1) reinstall new cups, springs etc

2) replace drums with brake shoes just barely clearing

3) replace wheels

4) turn wheels and adjust brake shoes to just touch a hair

5) Bleed brakes from farthest point to closest point

When I get back on the road, do final adjustment if necessary for pulling or such.

Sound right ?

Thanks-

OCM.

[keiser31]

Exactly how I would do it. You da man.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Forgot the most important thing, when you get done, sit back with a couple cold ones........

Thanks again for the information, & everyone that sent advice-

OCM

[Guest outlaw car man]

Got my parts today,going to put the slave cylinders back together tomorrow-

Maybe get it on the road- weather permitting. Car probably hasn't been driven in 10 years or so.

Is it advisable to lube the inside of the slave cylinders with brake fluid prior to installing the rubber cups and all.

Did hone the cylinders, look pretty good feel real smooth.

Thanks-

OCM

[dwollam]

yes

[keiser31]

I agree with Dave. I used to lube ALL of the cylinder parts.

[Dana J]

Well I've about tried it all. I can not get my right rear wheel to come off my 30 Chrysler. I've drove in circles and then took the torch to it. Heated it till I have wood spokes on fire. Still nothing. Does any one know if I can cut the bolts off on the back side of back plate to remove the axle?

[Guest outlaw car man]

May not be much help here, but just went thru the same on my 32 DL6.

With advice from here, I used a hub puller that bolts on with the lug bolts. Sprayed PB Blaster in a couple times, cranked, more PB Blaster and let one sit over night. More PB Blaster and just kept slowly cranking on it. PB crank, PB crank...

I actually got to the point of standing on the large socket wrench handle and using my body weight- BE CAREFUL !!!!!

Booom of she came.

Worked for me-

[keiser31]

When in doubt, use a larger tool for leverage. I had to use a 3 foot pipe once to loosen a drum. Yes.....all of my 150 pounds and the pipe made the difference.

[nearchoclatetown]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When in doubt, use a larger tool for leverage. </div></div>Or a bigger hammer.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Do I need a tool to expand the brake shoe return spring to get on ? They all seemed to come off easy enough, of course two were broken-

Got three new springs with my kits, but no way in hell am I strong enough to expand the spring to hook from one shoe to the other

I thought maybe remove the two bottom bolts that hold the brake shoes on, hold the shoes together, insert the spring then attempt to rebolt the bottoms back in- This sounds like a brake it to fix it way.

I'll continue to mount slave cylinders and wait.

Thanks,

OCM

[keiser31]

Yes, you need to expand the brake spring...with the correct tool. I would NOT take out the bolts to try it that way. That will only cause you more problems. You need to get the correct spring pliers and keep your face away from the spring as you expand it. If you try it with pliers or channel locks, you will lose an eye.

[Guest outlaw car man]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, you need to expand the brake spring...with the correct tool. I would NOT take out the bolts to try it that way. That will only cause you more problems. You need to get the correct spring pliers and keep your face away from the spring as you expand it. If you try it with pliers or channel locks, you will lose an eye. </div></div>

Don't want to do that- !!!! Looks like my next quest.

Actually having a blast doing this and learning as I go.

Thanks really appreciate the advice here-

Onward with BOTH eyes-

OCM

[idrjoe_sandiego]

Hey OCM-glad to see your still at it!

Most people do use the brake spring pliers as pictured below as they are indeed somewhat safer to use than some random pliers. If you decide to use one of these items, at the very least get one of the type like in the second picture below that has a reversible hook AND a full-floating, padded foot to prevent damage to brake shoe friction material. Most people will gouge one or two chunks out of their new brake shoes attempting to use the former tool.

If your '32 Dodge Lockheed brakes are anything like the '29 DA (see last picture), the spring needs to be threaded thru a retainer loop then attached to a hook on the underside of the shoe. In my experience with this arrangement, the brake shoe pliers is all but useless to get the spring to attach to the nearly impossible to reach hook. Either you can't get the spring to come off that curly-cue on the pliers, or the spring hangs precariously while you fumble for a screwdriver to finish the job. (Retry, retry, retry).

What works for me first time, every time is to get a decent size Vice-grips and attach it FIRMLY (say it again-->FIRMLY!) to one end of the spring (at green arrow), and physically stretch the spring over the hook. It helps to have an assistant to hold the free shoe inward (at red arrow) while you do this. Using this method, you have complete control over the spring, you won't have any free-flyers or lost eyes, and you won't damage the friction material. These springs aren't that strong, but depending on your hand strength,you may decide to get a stronger assistant and you hold the shoe. Try my method on one side and use the old pliers method on the other. You will soon be a believer. And like Keiser says, don't lose any eyes--Always wear GOOD QUALITY safety glasses.

One more thing, if that car has been sitting undriven that long, make sure you really flush out all the old crud out of the brake lines, using air and fresh fluid. I normally replace the original lines and brass fittings with stainless steel lines (especially if your car has original copper lines). Replace the flexible rubber brake hoses, too. I guarantee these are past their service life and they are cheap insurance. Hopefully you are rebuilding the master cylinder, too. I think one of the worst things you can do with a collector car is a "partial" brake job. Unlike a modern system with a dual master cylinder, if you lose any part of your system, you will quickly be reduced to a Hail Mary and an emergency brake.

Happy Motoring! Joe