idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Looks like problems with the pictures.. I'll re-post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Idrjoe,I don't remember DB offering a vinyl top in white. Good advice on the brakes and DON'T use sillycone fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Thanks Joe-I did replace some of the line, someone had rebuilt the system in the past. I got clear fluid running to all wheels from the master C. The only problem appeared to be the slave cylinders being stuck from sitting static. Once everything was cleaned up, it almost looked like if I put everything back together and bled the brakes it would work. The slave cylinders needed honing so I was crazy not to rebuild them. I've replaced springs in the past, like 35 years ago when the thumbs were in much better shape.( and everything else) Appreciate the advice, let you know where this phase takes me, I figured I'd be on the road by nowOCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nearchoclatetown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Idrjoe,I don't remember DB offering a vinyl top in white. Good advice on the brakes and DON'T use sillycone fluid. </div></div>I'm using Valvoline synthetic DOT 3&4 fluid. Thanks-OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nearchoclatetown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Idrjoe,I don't remember DB offering a vinyl top in white. Good advice on the brakes and DON'T use sillycone fluid.</div></div> That's funny Doug! At first I was going "Huh?" but I then I realized the pictures still aren't there!! It's this stupid new McAfee Security Program blocking my sending or seeing pictures. If Anyone knows the right settings, lemme know... I'll try pics once more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Sorry all for wasting your bandwidth with multiple pictures!! I tried using firefox instead of Internet Explorer and now I can see again! NOW I get it Doug!!...AND I have absolutely no idea where that Buick convertible picture came from... Heck with computers, I'm going back to the garage where I can really foul things up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Don't feel bad, my windowsmail quit working about a month ago. Had to switch to Comcastmail, it sucks. Won't let me send pics out of my gallery and blocks most pics in emails. Even the ones WITH clothes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Both of your computer issues may be with teh 'security' settings.Open the program that is giving you trouble and select to the 'Options' commenad from the 'Tools' menu. Then click on the 'security' tab.Most email systems have a pretty obvious 'Block attachments' checkbox.Internet Explorer is more complicated. You will have to change the security settings for the 'Internet' option (again Tools>Options; security tab). Select 'Custom level' and find the 'mixed content' and some of the other 'display settings. Turn these to 'enable'.Changing either does not effect you virus protection (please be up to date)programs - it does give viruses a fighting chance, but if they want in, they will get past all firewall and virus programs. The virus program is really just good to remove the known viruses after the fact - they really are not that great in fighting 'new' virus.Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Got everything on & bled the brakes today. The master seemed to pump fluid just fine. Bled each one about 3 time till all clear no air ( I think) However, the pedal went to the floor after all this. Ran a Qt of brake fluid through the system, clear and all . Had my wife hit the brake pedal as I spun the right rear brake drum, seemed to stop fine but the other side now has a leak( small leak on one side of the slave cylinder. This is the same one that I started with originally that was leaking, pulled the hub again and finally gave up for the day- Don't think I honed it to much, maybe not enough ? Test it without the brake drum ? Would this ONE leak cause a no-response in the brake pedal.Seems like I should get some resistance from one of the wheels.ouch- Wish I was 25 today-OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Where are you located? I'll be right over to help you out. I used to be a brake mechanic, but even these always seem to give people a tough time. Your wheel cylinder(s) not being honed enough could certainly cause the leak. Did you make absolutely certain that all four drums were adjusted to the point of rubbing the shoes slightly? Did you bleed them farthest from the master cylinder first (ie..right rear, left rear, right front and left front...American cars)? Actually, I would think that the culprit is more likely the need to smooth out the wheel cylinders more. The inner cups are really the ones that keep the fluid in. The outer cups are dust covers. If the wheel cylinder is rough on the innermost area where the inner cups rub, that will be problematic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nearchoclatetown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't feel bad, my windowsmail quit working about a month ago. Had to switch to Comcastmail, it sucks. Won't let me send pics out of my gallery and blocks most pics in emails. Even the ones WITH clothes.</div></div> Doug you kill me! And thanks Caddy for the computer help- I think you nailed it! I'm back in biz.Keiser, do you suspect he may need a resleeve on the cylinders? And OCM --Definitely DON'T test without the drum in place. You'll blow wheel cyl parts everywhere along with getting brake fluid in places you don't want brake fluid. Hopefully your shoes didn't get wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I would suspect that there will be a re-sleeve of the wheel cylinder involved. And NO>>>do NOT try the brakes without the drum on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where are you located? I'll be right over to help you out. I used to be a brake mechanic, but even these always seem to give people a tough time. Your wheel cylinder(s) not being honed enough could certainly cause the leak. Did you make absolutely certain that all four drums were adjusted to the point of rubbing the shoes slightly? Did you bleed them farthest from the master cylinder first (ie..right rear, left rear, right front and left front...American cars)? Actually, I would think that the culprit is more likely the need to smooth out the wheel cylinders more. The inner cups are really the ones that keep the fluid in. The outer cups are dust covers. If the wheel cylinder is rough on the innermost area where the inner cups rub, that will be problematic. </div></div>Wish you were down the street ( Colorado) . Have not and will not test with drums off- thanks-I'm the chap that bought the breather tube from you a couple months back) So, I'll pull the slave cylinder off again and check it out for pitting. If there is anything I missed I'll rehone till glass smooth. Rubber cups are new. Discovered yet another problem but I don't think related to the loss of brake pedal- The brake shoe adjusting cam on the right shoe has broken off a piece of the shoe where it hits the shoe, whereas when I adjust the tension on the shoe, with the cam, it pushes the shoe out forward towards me and not towards the drum. Hope that makes sense.Would you all agree it might be wiser to buy a working slave cylinder from a parts house rather then re-hone and re-try. On the brake shoe issue, wouldn't a flip flop of the shoes solve that problem. Back at it AGAIN-OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 A working cylinder could possibly be purchased, but would you know what the inside looks like? It's very possibly that the shoe reversal could work....I would have to see the broken area to determine for certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A working cylinder could possibly be purchased, but would you know what the inside looks like? It's very possibly that the shoe reversal could work....I would have to see the broken area to determine for certain. </div></div>Hopefully this will be the end of this thread, for my sake !!!reversed the shoes, looked identical, seemed to work fine.Pulled the leaky cylinder off and re-re-honed the thing, mainly in the middle area as suggested. Rubber cups were still tight. Installed again for the 1795th time. "Conned" my wife to step on the pedal while I turned the wheels, fronts stop immediately, the driver side rear the same. The one I've had problems with was a little soft but worked. Pulled the hub off the rear one again for signs of leaks, no problem after the re-re-honing. I see no signs of leaks anywhere now, biggest problem is the brake pedal still goes to the floor, assume a bleeding & adjusting situation.As I've said the two fronts and rear driver's side stop pronto, the " bad" one is sluggish. I guess this is it finally. As repeated many times, thanks for all the help here. This thread should be documented for all the advice on brake work !!!!Till next problem-OCM 1932 Dodge DL61932 Dodge DL6 w/side mounts & trunk1948 Buick 56S Sedanete1972 Volvo 1800ES Sportwagentrucks & other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 If the pedal still goes to the floor, bleed again until you are absolutely certain that all of the air is out of the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 OCM- here is a scan from my favorite book on the subject simply entitled "Brakes" By Chilton published 1937 pg 44 Troubleshooting Lockheed Brakes. (sorry right hand side of pg clipped).In particular, note Section 3-A: Both of these items have been addressed by John (Keiser31)1)Drum clearance- do you know how to adjust for the proper clearance? 2)Leaky valve seat in Master Cyl. REBUILD your master and be careful how the valve goes in (it's the salt shaker top looking thing). I can scan a picture of the proper assembly if you don't have one.3)Also note Section 4-D which I posted earlier--REPLACE those blasted flexible hoses. Old hoses corrode, leak , swell and suck in air creating an invisible havoc for you. 4)lastly, just IMOHO: don't shortcut on your brakes, mistakes here can cost you your collector car or worse. Get someone like John, a brake expert to look over your work. Are you sure those shoes didn't get wet with brake fluid? I've yet to see a leaking cylinder that didn't soak the linings rendering them all but useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Yes....Dr. Joe is right. If the shoes are wet with fluid, a good soaking of alcohol will help evaporate most of the brake fluid if it gets on the shoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 One thing I did find, the Bleeder valve on the one wheel I'm having problems with didn't seat in all the way. It looks like this has been this way for some time. When I had the slave cylinder off I cleaned it up good and got it in all the way this time. As I've said the front wheels and the one rear stops on a dime, the one I'm working on I haven't replaced the drum yet but clean and dry now. Not quite sure about adjustment of the ( eccentric) anchor bolt since I replaced the shoes, but don't trust the PO's settings. I did take a digital of the anchor bolt setting prior to removal. John, I think I'm down to bleeding the system again. This time I'll have a friend over and do the push & hold method as I used to do many years ago. I've been using the one man bleeder system.Hoping this will give me pedal pressure finally. thanks-OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest outlaw car man Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Dr Joe, thanks-John has left me with some pretty advice so far, I'm following this advice best I can.The master Cylinder has been rebuilt sometime in the past, not to long ago , the car came with the old parts, salt shaker thing etc.from the rebuild. The hoses the same,appear newer, not cracked or anything. The PO had attempted to get the car up and running not long before I got it. I will double/triple check ! The slave cylinders were mainly stuck from drying up fluid, the leakage started when I began pumping the brakes to see if they worked.IOnly the one cylinder leaked and it mainly leaked behind the shoes down the back. Will use alcohol to clean just in case. As both you and John have indicated a good adjustment and a BLEED may solve this ongoing brake saga. If not, I guess rebuild the master , replace hoses.... or ? Appreciate you responses and DO agree safety with brakes is a priority since my butt is on the line here ! OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nickan Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 HI: I have a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL 6 four door restored. If you give me an email address I can show you a picture.Thanks, Nick Angiulinickan@msn.comIT WILL BE FOR SALE IN THE NEAR FUTURE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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