90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Dealer replaced the accumulator and now says the "control unit", i am assuming the pump, is leaking. havent seen this on the forum, but i am new, both ABS and red lights were on when i brought it in, but no leaks and i had brakes.. Any ideas or is this dealer just a guessing parts changer.Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Dennis, take the brake test at Reatta.net. It will help those knowledgeable with Teves help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Hi Dennis,Welcome the the forum! Maui is right. The first step in troubleshooting break system problems is to take the brake test.Also it would help with future problems if you add the year of your Reatta to your profile signature line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Reatta is a 1990, ie: 90 reatta brake leak in the subject..lolas for the test, it is hard to do now that the dealer has it and the thing is according to him now leaking, if the accumulator was bad as i understand is common, woould changing it out cause for a higher pressure in the pump and consequently for the pump to leak ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I would print the test out and go test your car at the dealer. It is common for shops to have no knowledge of the system and purposely or not start throwing (expensive) parts at the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I said "<span style="font-weight: bold">it would help with future problems</span> if you add the year of your Reatta to your profile signature line." I didn't say I didn't know what year your car was. lol all you want and see if that gets your car fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Added as requested to signature line, forgive me i am new to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I will lay money to the fact that they added brake fluid w/o pumping the brakes and now it is "leaking" as the fluid has no place to go but out of the resivoir. Either that or the pressure switch is bad... But do the test... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 After talking to the service manager, the system went from a max of 1200 psi with the old accumulator, to 2600 psi max with the new, no leaks at the pressure switch, but "seeping" from the main valve unit or block, also according to him, the pump is fine but both lights red and abs are still on and ofcourse he cant get ahold of that main valve unit/block. From what i have read on here via those a lot more knowledgable than me, it sounds liek the pressure switch is bad possibly in addition to the piece holding the main valve he talks about, it also sounds like the pressure switch is a common failure and would not be bad to have a spare around, are they available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CL_Reatta Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Your first problem in this whole situation.... you took your reatta to the dealer to fix a brake problem... The dealer knows almost nothing about these cars... many a times there have been people with bad accumulators have the whole system replaced becuase the tech at the dealer knew not what to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bobby Valines Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Just wanted to welcome you, and give you a little heads up.You should put your city and state in your profile. (you never know you might have some one here that lives close) The more information you can give us the better ( were not mind readers small details mean a lot, example, miles on the car, you might be from FL. the car might be from MI.) Hope you see where I'm coming from, not trying to be a smart ---, just trying to help. Wish I could help more with your brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 The brake test we keep trying to get you to take is like a road map that 90% of the time will lead us to the problem. Print the brake test and take it to your mechanic. Report to us the results of the test.If he is too proud to stoop to using your instruction find another mechanic. He can cost you a lot of money throwing parts at the Teves brake system.If the system is building pressure does the pump ever stop running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thanks for the welcome, and the area, geographicly has been added as suggested. As for the Brake test, already printed and dropped off to the dealer and told him i am expecting it in full completed by end of day tomorrow. Also not to "try" changing any parts until i get it and get back to him. Thanks all for your continued help. This car sure aint my old 55 chevy. Oh and yes the pump stops just before it hits 2600 psi according to the guage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Run, do not walk. Accumulator has nothing to do with the pressure, just how long it holds it before needing the pump to run. At 1200 psi the red and the yellow lights should be on constantly. 2600psi is in the ballpark for the peak and turnon is usually about 2000psi.Once it reaches 1500-1800psi on the way up the red light should go off followed by the yellow. Now if the pressure switch is bad then both lights could stay on and the pump would keep running constantly (not good).BTW, if you fill the resovoir to the line shortly after shutting off, next morning there will be a puddle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard S Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I'm with Ronnie on this. If the mechanic won't do this test with you standing there, run not walk elsewhere. Almost nobody has real experience with this Teves system because they were not installed on many cars. Your best bet is not GM, but a Saab specialist [not a dealer]. Dealers almost exclusively see newer cars. Anyone who works on old Saabs is likely to have crossed paths with the Teves because those models had a much larger production run than the limited production Reatta. Assuming you are going to stick with this guy, and he is sticking with the "leaking master cylinder" theory, the only viable source for them are rebuilds, and even these are probably nearing $500. One is Prior Remanufacturing, and a guy in LA whose name I forget. I have used both and they are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oh and yes the pump stops just before it hits 2600 psi according to the guage.</div></div>If the pump is shutting off and the RED light stays on the pump may be stalling due to the excessively high pressure. It more than likely is because a bad pressure switch is not cutting off the pump at the correct pressure, about 2200psi. If that is the case your pump could be damaged. I would not allow it to run much at that pressure. The YELLOW light will be on any time the RED light is.When you get the test results you will know more about how to proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 The only thing i am allowing this guy to do is the brake test tomorrow. At this point i believe that they have no experience as suggested and i want a real mechanic , not a guessing parts changer, which i will start my search for immediately, will post the brake test results when i get them and thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 One of the keys is what Padgett said....the accumulator has nothing to do with the pressures.If it had 1200 psi before changing the accumulator, it will have 1200 after changing the accumulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Sure sounds like the service manager had, to be nice about it, not told me the truth, if the accumulator has nothing to do with the pressure, it was either 2600 all the while or 1200 all the while, not one then the other ... I am pulling the car out tomorrow and will test myself and post results ... thank you all for your help past and present and future with this problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would print the test out and go test your car at the dealer. It is common for shops to have no knowledge of the system and purposely or not start throwing (expensive) parts at the car. </div></div>this is true.the reatta i have was in the dealers shop last year.they said they couldn't figure why the check engine light was on.i accessed the computer,replaced the spark knock sensor.no more check engine light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 OK...Pulled the car out of thee this morning and drove it home, only the ABS light on and the brake fluid as you guys expected is overfull approx 1/4 to 3/8 in over the full line. I ran the tests as requested but ran them 3 times and the results follow:Test 1 - ABS light on constantly Red light took 9 pumps to go off each time tested.Test 2 - 25, 24, 25 pumps per testTest 3 - red light out in 28 seconds each test yellow remains on constantTest 4 - 40 seconds, 42 seconds, 40 secondsTest 5 - 3 pumps each time testedTest 6 - Hard to tell as was overfull but distance was no more than 1/2 inch each time and no noticable loss of fluid Test 7 - Tap felt and thump heard each time.So now all looks like it is in the normal range, Red light goes out, but Yellow ABS light is on constant. BTW, braking seems just fine both around town and hiway driving while returning from the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 If you have not already done it, suck out some fluid to get the proper amount of fluid in the reservoir.From the brake test results I believe the basic part of the brake system is good and the car is safe to drive. Now you need to get down to trouble shooting the ABS system. The first thing you need to do is check for codes that may give information on what the ABS problem is. Here are instructions for doing that.Also if possible visibly inspect the ABS sensors on the wheels for broken wires or missing insulation. They are one of the first things that go bad and cause the ABS light to stay on.Report back here what you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90coupe Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks, I will probably get to it over the weekend depending on the weather, had to convert the garage to a bedroom and bath for my folks due to my dad having altzheimers, and new garage wont be startesd til they can dig for foundation. I will keep posting all my results and once again Thank You Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I agree with Ronnie that you will find that the sensors will be bad. It will probably be the front ones. Jim Finn has them available. My ABS lights came on and I checked the sensor leads and that is what was bad. The electrical connection is easy to disconnect, but removing the other end in the hub assembly is fairly tedious. Don't worry about damaging the end in the hub as you are replacing that anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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