Richard S

Padgett, I thought the glove boxes were different. Didn't the earlier ones lock from somewhere else? I recall trying to get the glove box for my 90 from an 89, but they don't have the lock in the front.

Minor correction. The only Allante with the northstar was 93. GM also managed to put an end to the nightmarish Bosch braking system and some electrical gremlins leftover from earlier years. I believe the major reason the Allante was so spirited was the tuned port injection added to all the motors starting with the little 4.1 in 87. As I recall, they did not got to the coil pack ignition until the northstar changeover in 93. The car, particularly top down, is gorgeous. Were it not for some similarity to some initial other popup lighted cars, the Reatta would turn as many heads. I think from the front, at a quick glance, it can be confused with some other cars.

I just love the way the Reatta looks from most perspectives. It has a very aggressive stance. My only beef is the very large wheel wells with the smallish narrow tires don't seem to do that stance justice. Obviously, this is a matter of taste, and since wheels are something we can play with and return to stock whenever that seems warranted, I chose to. Here is the car [needing a paint job rather badly] with Mustang 17s, running 255/50/17s in the rear and 235/50/17s up front. BTW, the absolute maximum you can run up front is 245/50/17, but that will leave a very slight scuff on the inner wheel wells at full lock.

Folks, lets keep this in perspective. We all look at threads with varying frequency. If Jon did not want to share his ideas and innovations, he would not post at all, just lurk. On the contrary, he is normally one of the first to pipe up when he discovers something or has an insight. If you don't see an answer to your question, just send him a PM as I did. He quickly and kindly let me know that the driving lights he installed came out of a Camaro, and were quite simple to mount [of course that may be if you have his skills, which are considerable]. Interestingly, there are several people on this forum who can wander the bone yard and just have a marvelous eye for what will fit a Reatta. Jon is one of them.

Wayne, first make sure you have all the parts you may need, such as bushings and gaitors if required. Second, a very good set of vise grips to clamp onto the old chrome tube when turning the nut. I doubt that you will loosen the top strut mount nut any other way. If you are contemplating any brake or rear seal work, this is the time. Check the suspension bushings and rear sway bar rubber as well. Since there is not spring to deal with, it is far easier than the front.

Have we isolated this as a fuel or electrical issue. I would try a pressure tester on the fuel rail [they are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight] and if that checks out, some starter fluid into the intake. If it fires right up, then you know it is fuel. If it makes no difference, then you might be dealing with a weak coil pack or failing module.

Jon, just wanted to compliment you. I have yet to see a mod you have made that did not turn out to be a enviable first rate job. You are quite a craftsman. I seoond: What did those come out of?

If you want to try a fix on the cheap, I have so far had very good luck on the a/c of my 90 with a leak sealer I got on ebay.

Not to sidetrack what has become a very interesting discussion, for me at least, of lubrication principles, I just wanted to report that the leak returned after the car was sitting for about 30 minutes following an 8 mile drive home. Car was facing downhill and it looked like about 1/8 cup of oil. I am going to have to get under the car this weekend and really feel around for the origin of this leak. I am wondering about the blacklight method of leak detection. Does anyone know what is involved? Is it a worthwhile method or old technology? If it does turn out to be the rear seal, I understand there is a kit and tool for replacing it by dropping the oil pan. True? Anyone done this? Tips? Maybe I'm getting way out in front of myself here.

Surely there is a lamp out there in the boneyard of the proper size with a glass lens. I was thinking of trying to wire in/adapt the mini headlamps from the 93-95 Cutlass Supremes

BTW, car was parked today facing uphill. No oil stain underneath. Parked facing downhill tonight. News at 7 [am.]

I used to go out to the desert pretty often. With temps over 100 and the a/c blasting, engine temps were pretty high. Hence the 20/50. Since I bought in case lots when it was on sale, and that weight cost no more than any other, I've just stuck with it for no apparent reason. Now is the 3.4 you refer to the very twin cam I have in my 93 Cutlass Supreme convert? Does it explain why that engine had so few applications and came and went so quickly?

Yes it can. It was 82 near the coast here in SD today; much hotter inland. I have always run 20/50 in all my cars here without incident. But you could be right. Before I change weights, I probably should take it to a pro with a lift and see what he says.

I definately qualify as a forgetful mechanic, but fortunately I did not rebuild the engine.

Well, I spoke too soon; leak's back. It is definately engine oil. Bobby, I tend to keep things pretty clean, particularly the top. I am confident it is not coming from the top end, valve covers and the like. The starter fluid spray test proved negative, and in cany case, there is no evidence the leak is coming from the intake plenum. I am now drifting back to the horrific idea that it might be a coincidental failure of the rear seal. I doubt that running Valvolene 20/50 would have blown the seal. I just can't think of that many places on the left side of the car that oil could leak from. I did remove the plastic flywheel cover the other day and saw some oil on it in side and an out, though nothing on the flywheel. Course I didn't reach all around it, either. Right now I have it parked on a slant driver to passenger. If the leak was making its way from left to right, this should negate that and I should see the drip move to the right.

I certainly understand the concern for privacy, identity theft and spam. Still, this is a pretty congenial forum. It would be both helpful and friendly if folks would fill out their profile with at least a State, a first name and the year of the Reatta you have. Frankly, when someone has been of help, or just posts something really informative, it's nice to be able refer to something other than a cyberspace handle. Likewise a location and car description would aid in responding to requests for help. I note, for example, that DonL was kind enough to leave a brief post not only letting us know he found an 88 in a local wrecking yard, but that he might be willing to get some parts for us. Nothing, however, hints as to where Don or the car is.

I agree that origins can be very difficult to locate. You do make another good point about the expansion tank. Orginally, though there was a tank and a hose, the radiator had not been drilled out. I finally figured this out because the coolant in the tank was always a little low in the morning. Fixed that several months ago and all was fine. When the leak developed I also noticed that the coolant in the radiator was again 1/4 cup low. Checked this morning, and the radiator is full, expansion a little low. Thus I conclude that there was a coolant leak, and, as you say, the expansino tank was defeated because the system was sucking air. I probably wouldn't be able to isolate the leak unless it resurfaces, or I take it to a shop and have the system pressurized. When I flush/change the coolant, I always add some radiator sealant with the fresh antifreeze. This was done several months ago. Perhaps the sealant kicked in.

Went out this morning and there does not seem to be a leak. I do notice that there does seem to be some coolant loss because the level in the overlflow is a bit low and I filled it the other day. This really is a mystery as all I did was use carb cleaner and starter fluid to isolate problems as now: 1. The high idle problem seems to have cured itself. 2. The leak seems to have disappeared. Since the overflow is on the other side of the car, doubt that the expansion tank is the culprit. If it was coolant, still not sure what hose is on the right side. High idle: My only explanation is that the starter fluid may have softened some gasket cement on the intake plenum and it resealed, if only temporarily. Pretty far fetched, I know.

It sure felt like oil, but coolant with both antifreez and dexcool may have an oily feel to it. I did neglect to mention that I put some dexcool in as summer approaches to keep the car running a bit cooler. Never have used it before. I checked the little coolant pipe that goes into the MAF to see if it was leaking, but could not detect anything. Not sure where on the right side there is coolant in that forward of the pan area. I used a little engine degreaser under the MAF area so I can better tell if there is anything new there. I will get under tomorrow and look very carefully, trying the paper trick to identify the culprit for sure. I certainly like Padgett's comment because I would hate to think the rear main decided to give out at just 80k on a well maintained car.

Checked the bottom of both valve covers and found no leakage. Tried spraying some starter fluid around the intake manifold with engine running, but did not notice any difference. Rear main is looking more culpable.

In looking at the autopartsgiant.com listings for my 90 I see two Felpro rocker cover gaskets, one 3/16 [1601] & one 5/16 [1637]. Also see two intake gaskets, a 3/64 [1219] with something called a "thicksteel core", and a 3/32 [1232]. Are these upgrades, or are there really different gaskets for different vins?

Jon, a leaking valve cover was my second choice, though when I improved the grip of one of the rear bank plugs, I did not feel any oil back there. I am going to be more thorough tomorrow. And no, there is no smoke.

As I recall from when I recharged mine, the blue cap was just like a valve stem cap. Just unscrew it and attach the A/C gauges.

I am thinking this is coming from up higher, Drake. When it was jacked up to have the front tires replaced. I could see the constant dripping from the leading edge of the transmission pan. I was sure in was tranny fluid, except wrong color. I don't think it could run there from the oil level sensor. Chas may be correct, but if so, it is a coincidental issue, going from no leak at all, and then this work, and then a major leak. Chas, do you think the main seal would continue to leak with the engine off. I can park the car on a grade, up or down, and I can come out after 30 minutes and see it has been leaking. My street is asphalt, which will soak up oil. The first day, the stain was probaby 3-4 feet long. Could have been cup, cup and a half of oil. Much slower now, but still a very sudden and disturbing development. I'm thinking plenum gasket. The latter might explain the over revving problem I was trying to cure in the first place. Having tugged on the MAF to get it off when I was thinking I just needed to clean it, I might have aggravated an intake plenum gasket problem. Over revving seems a little worse. Would it leak oil from that gasket? I think one of the ways to test that theory is to spray starting fluid around the plenum with the engine running to see if it affects the idle. I assume one either gets test results or an explosion.

I removed the MAF and IAC to clean them. Changed the oil & filter. Then I noticed a serious leak. Never had an oil leak before. It looked exactly as though the transmission pan gasket was leaking in the front. When I jacked up the car, I could see it was engine oil not tranny fluid, and stain on the street is about 2 inches to the front of the oil pan, and about 4 inches to the driver's side of dead center of the car. I looked under, but it is not the pan gasket, the drain plug or filter. What could I have disturbed up top that would leak oil? The only liquid that seems to be involved in the MAF is a water line, but that is not leaking.