Richard S

Wayne, what is the procedure for checking the integrity of the relays?<BR>

I note that both my front turn signals do not flash. The rears work, and the cornering lamps come on. The dash indicator flashes, but makes no noise. I haven't checked the bulbs, but thought it too coincidental that both would burn out at the same time, though I guess it's possible I didn't notice one going out earlier. Is there anything else I should check in case it's not just the bulbs?

You might also want to get a price from Dal Slabaugh at Van DeVere Olds. I have used Dal to purchase parts for my Cadillac Allante at far less than I could get them anywhere else. And these are genuine GM parts. When I got my Reatta I contacted Dal to see if he could supply them and he said he could. Dal can be emailed at lockitup@bright.net. Just a note: I have neither business nor social connection with either Dal or Van Devere.

While bigrog's reply makes sense, I can only say that in Allantes pedal "kickback" of the kind Wally describes is almost always associated with a failing accumulator. Would be nice if cleaning up or checking the connections at a wheel sensor resolved the problem. When it comes time to deal with the ABS system, I am, very unfortunately, convinced that a complete rebuild, as opposed to component replacement, is the only viable solution.<BR>

Anyone who has experienced brake failure or something approximating it, should go to the NHSTA website and report it. If they get enough complaints, it will trigger an investigation, which in turn might trigger a recall, which in turn could force GM, not Reatta owners, to bear the substantial cost of brake work.<BR>The issue, as far as NHSTA is concerned, is whether the system has design flaws that can cause failures that pose a risk to the motoring public. Obviously, nothing lasts forever, but the issue is whether the system gives adequate warning of failure, and whether that failure is related to normal wear or design flaw.

If you don't mind sharing, how much did you pay for the daccumulator alone and what was your source?<P><BR>I described this when I had the first problem. It was exactly as you describe, however it was deteriorating. I replaced the accumulator and all returned to normal operation.<P>

I understand you have gotten Prior to act as a sort of consultant on the ABS system for the forum, Barney. That is just great, a very nice enhancement for the group as I believe they have some very definitive knowledge on these systems

There has been, and will continue to be neverending posts regarding the ABS braking system on GM's orphans, the Reatta and the Allante. While the systems are different, Reatta using Teves and Allante using Bosch III, the concept is similar, meaning the problems are also. I have already redone the system on my Allante. Caddy wanted upwards of $3500. I sent the entire unit to Prior Remanufacturing, and in less than a week they sent me back a remanufactured unit, including pump, master cylinder, etc. for under $550. Their online [priorreman.com] catalogue lists the system for the Reatta as well, part no. 4600134. You can get price quote from them. I am confident it will be the lowest cost alternative for us all.

My tape player obviously got the better of the person who owned the car before the PO, and he probably tried to fix it with a crobar. I note that GM still has a courtesy repair [read: free if you bring it in] for the radios and tape decks for its stepchild, the Cadillac Allante. Does anyone know if Buick was doing the same for Buick's orphan?

Make sure you compare local prices by checking the online parts houses like carparts.com. They are usually inexpensive, give a choice of manufacturers, are always running a promotion of 15-30% off [which covers the shipping and more], and you don't pay sales tax. And the parts are delivered to your door.<BR>Those who advised replacing hardware are absolutely correct. On some cars [like the Allante] you cannot reuse the bolts mounting the caliper to the axle. Don't know about the Reatta.<BR>Make sure you mike the rotors to make sure they are not only within tolerance, but WELL within them. Why do the job twice at shop labor prices.<BR>Finally, and very important. This is a monstrously expensive ABS system. What Buick does not tell you is that you should periodically FLUSH, not just bleed, the fluid. Old contaminated fluid will kill the delicate high pressure parts. Instead of having the shop just bleed the brakes, tell them to pressure flush the system. I believe the proper solvent is denatured alcohol, but double check me on that.<BR>

Thanks, Bob.

Wonder if someone can explain the workings of the distributorless ignition. Is this the same is the "direct ignition" I saw on the Saab?

Looking for used 90 Reatta Workshop Manual. Email at wufibug@k-online.com

I am looking for a used 90 workshop manual. If you have one, email me off the forum at wufibug@k-online.com

All the model years are still available and their brand new.<P>Where would be the best and least expensive place to buy a used manual. Got one used for my Allante and it is just fine.

I have a 90 but have a chance to buy a repair manual for a 91. Would this be useful or do the number of changes in 91 make this a poor idea.

Has anyone done a dual exhaust setup on a Reatta. I have a 90 and would like to do so, but not sure of the logistics.<BR>Richard