2 Questions

[Tax Man]

Any suggestions or solutions are greatly appreciated.

I'm 90% sure there is nothing wrong with my breaks because I've had two mechanics look at them, but my abs light in the dash is always on and neither of the mechanics said they know how to turn off the light. I just think they didn't want to deal with it.

The other "problem" well its more of an annoyance but any audio that comes out of my speakers has this light high buzzing/whistling noise with it that raises in tone when I press the gas pedal to accelerate and lowers when I press the breaks. Does anyone have these same problems or any solutions?

[Ames63]

Well with any car or any item you first have to look at who owned it before you and how well did they maintain it.

The you got to consider that this car has hundreds of moving parts and 10's to 100's of electrical components.

The reatta of any other car is not an item that you can just put gas in and go. It must be maintained.

My recommendation is that you pick the brains of the people on this forum, they are very very knowledgeable, and probably the #1 source for diagnoising problems and issues with the reatta.

Lastly I own two reatta. My son drives the grey 88 reatta and I have have no mechanical failures with his car. I drive a red 89 reatta and I have have a list of things to go wrong with it. I contribute this to the first comment I made above.

I hope this helps you. Now what was your second question?

[Ronnie]

For question 1 you need to check for any ABS codes that is causing the ABS light to be on.

Then report your findings here.

Instructions for checking ABS codes can be found here.

[DAVES89]

Please post year of car and where you might be located. [Might want to put it in your signature].

Depending on where your car has lived most of its life, the leads could just be bad on the front wheel sensors. I know southern cars the rubber/plastic justs rots away. Nothern cars the rubber/plastic holds up, but then we get rust.

Regarding the buzzing thru your speakers it is either that you are on the AM side of your radio or that you have a lower grade aftermarket adapter plugged into your cigarette lighter.

There are 2 posts talking about these same 2 issues right now. Look for "IPLOD revisited" and "ABS lights"

[Guest EDBSO]

Tax Man;

You or your mechanic have to go here and then take the brake test and report the results back here. We will have answers for you.

Sounds like your speaker surrounds are toast and perhaps the capacitors are out in the radio.

[Reattatude]

Audio - you could also be picking up noise from the car electrical system like igintion wires. IF that be the case you would need a filter cap somewhere along the signal path probably adjecent to the source of the noise - sorry could help any more than that, had a problem similar once but years and years ago.

[Ames63]

Hey Taxman those 2 questions did not show up earlier when I posted my comments. The only thing I saw was the last sentence at the very bottom of the page. So disregard my comments

[Guest crazytrain2]

Tax Man - Audio issue: As Reattitude mentioned there are noise filters for such issues. They look like a AAA battery with a wire coming out of each end. You snip the power supply (Hot) to your radio (leave enough wire to work with on each side), strip each end and wire nut the two ends of the filter.

[Tax Man]

Alright, crazytrain2 & Reattitude, where are the noise filters located and what do you mean by "wire nut"? Ronnie, where are these pins located, do I have to remove the panels under the driver side dash to get to them? and do I just tell you how many times it flashed because I don't have a field service manual

[Rawja]

Tax,

There's an online service manual at www.reatta.net , Just register and you'll get a password to access it. The Pins are in the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) located under the dash roughly where the driver's left shin would be there should be a little removable plastic cover on it.

The electrical noise filters you should be able to locate at radio shack or and auto audio store, and wirenuts are plastic cone-shaped object used for splicing together wires also available at Radio Shack.

[HRP]

I had a similar problem after my Reatta was serviced. After investigation, it appeared that a mechanic caught and crushed the ABS wire under a wrench he was using as a "pry bar". My son and I replaced the wire which cost nearly 100 bucks which solved the problem. (I did get reimbursed for the part.)

[Guest MauiWowee]

NOOOOOOO! Please solder and shrink wrap all wiring. Wirenuts, tape, and crimp connectors are just future problems.

[Ronnie]

Rawja gave a good description of the location. Below is a photo of what you are looking for.

I will look the code up for you but you do need to sign up for the FSM.

Also please add the model of your Reatta to your signature line. Click My Stuff >> Profile and add your signature at the bottom of the page. It really helps as there are differences from year to year.

[padgett]

There is an important lesson here. That ALDL diagram is from the 89 FSM. I can tell because it is wrong.

That is the 88 wiring diagram but for 89 they changed the connector fron grey to black (maybe so the tech would know that it is different).

If you look on page 8A-202-13 of the '90 FSM it shows the correct wiring for 89 and 90 with 799 (ABS) on H and 835 (Entertainment) on J only.

In 88 you grounded pin G to make the ABS flash codes and there was a jumper from H to J. For 89-90 (is mentioned in section 5E of the FSM) You ground pin H to flash the codes.

Sometimes even the factory gets it rong.

[Guest crazytrain2]

Tax Man - Below is a link which should help you with locating the source and taking the proper steps to solve your audio dilema. Sorry for not covering the "wire nut" referrence earlier, but MauiWowee provided better advise about using plastic shrink wrap. I must admit that I'm more of the type to replace a fuse with a penny if the fuse keeps blowing LOL. Good luck

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272491.html

[Tax Man]

so i got a noise filter but i don't know where to put it in

[ESTAVER]

History: After pulling brake pump/motor to reseal that joint and also change bad dash display module around same time. Had "AntiLock" light for weeks. Would only come on after driving a block or two and would go out once in a while, only to come on again within a minute or so and then stay on until next drive.

Looked at all sources as per Shop Manual. By accident noticed light went out when pressing that area of display. After pressing all four corners of the display module, light now working properly, i.e. on "start up light show". If you ever pull one of these display modules you'll find the standing dash connectors aren't rigidly fixed in their slots. Thus, less than full engagement may occur at the socket.