ESTAVER

WINDOW MOTOR REPLACEMENT '99 RIVIERA Couldn't find much guidence on line about this task, so I'll share my experience. Had recuring problem with window not lowering from full up position. This seemed to happen in warmer weather, and would pretty much disappear in cooler months. This led me to suspect the motor's internal circuit breaker which is a temperature/current sensitive device. After confirming that 12Vdc was being delivered to the motor in both up and down commands, I changed the motor (Rockauto PN DOR742104, comes with wiring adapters) and the problem was resolved. The following are some observations that should help your make this job less stressful. I'll begin with the motor change itself and later will cover door panel removal and supply voltage test. When referencing the official shop manual, it indicates that the window glass adjusters must be marked, loosened and the window carrier module (rack) must be pushed outboard to remove the motor. THIS IS NOT TRUE FOR A '99 RIVIERA! That suggested operation is complex and tedius and can only create additional hours of labor for this job. The only thing that may have to be done is a gentle pulling on the door sheet metal at the removal area to gain a bit of clearence. WARNING: The window glass lift mechanism incorprates a powerful spring that can pose a danger for personal injury if not restrained during work on window components. The methods described here are not intended as a substitue for using your own best judgement as to safe work practice. Consult the factory shop manual if in doubt. Note: At the time of this motor replacement, the window glass was stuck in the full up position. The following method to maintain glass position during this repair should work for glass in any position except fully down. ___________________________________________________________ 1. Place soft jawed clamps on window glass approx. 1 inch above the door frame top at the front and rear of door. This will keep glass from falling and allow the glass to be moved up and down when removing the motor and for aligning the motor output gear to the "lift regulator" gear teeth when installing the new motor. (the motor output gear can not be moved without applying the 12Vdc power) 2. Disconnect power lead from motor socket. 3. Loosen the three motor mount nuts (10mm), but do not remove the nuts at this time. 4. Using a suitable tool, work the motor gearbox out a bit on it's mount studs. It may be necessary to move the glass up or down a bit to relieve the weight pressure on the gear engagement. 5. When you see that the motor is moving out on the studs, remove the three nuts, the motor/gearbox can now be moved clear of the studs. 6. At this point it may be necessary to slightly bend the door sheet metal toward you to gain enough clearance to completely remove the motor asssembly. The latch rods running to the rear of the door do not prevent the motor's removal. 7. If you compare the gear position on the old and new motor, you will prob. see that they are not at the same rotation position. This does not matter because the motor only stops when the circuit breaker senses the rise in current at full up or down, or the switch is released, or the safety timer circuit opens. 8. Place the new motor on the mount studs. You will be able to see how much the gears are misaligned at this point. Move the glass up or down until the gear teeth mesh, and the motor gearbox assembly slides fully up against the door mounting plate. 9. Install and tighten the mounting nuts and connect the motor to the door wiring using the supplied wiring adapter. 10. Return the door panel to the "tilted" service position (as described below in panel removal section), remove the soft jawed clamps from the glass and connect the motor lead to the door's window switch socket. 11. Place ignition switch in the "on" position and test window operation. 12. Reinstall watershield and interior door panel as described below. INTERIOR DOOR PANEL REMOVAL NOTE: DO NOT USE STATIONARY DOOR PULL HANDLE TO LIFT OR POSITION THE INTERIOR DOOR PANEL AFTER THE TWO HANDLE ATTACHMENT BOLTS ARE REMOVED, THE HANDLE IS NOT STRONGLY SECURED TO THE PANEL BACKING AND WILL TEAR OUT. 1. If possible, position window glass at a point that will allow best access to the type work antisipated. If needed, secure glass from falling as described above in "Window Motor Replacement" For most inner door inspections, having the glass fully down allows best ease in removing and reinstalling the interior door panel. 2. Remove interior door release handle trim by removing trim button at back of handle cove and the phillips head screw. Release the single spring clip at the forward end of the handle trim by pulling straight outward on the forward edge of the trim piece. You may have to pull the release handle toward you to remove the trim. Disconnect the wire connector. 3. Remove the single screws at the top, outer ends of the interior panel. 4. Remove the bolt access cover trim buttons from the stationary door pull handle, and using a T30 torx bit, remove the two handle bolts. 5. Using the upper interior panel ledge overhang, not the stationary pull handle, lift the panel straight up about 1 inch to clear the upper mount lugs. 6. Panel can now be tilted away from door body appro. 12 inches where it can rest on the lower panel lugs that are still engaged in the lower door. 7. If this operation is to verify motor voltage, it may be possible to access the motor lead connector by cutting the watershield in front of the motor location, and thus keep from disturbing the watershield sealing beads. That cut in the shield must be resealed later to prevent water entry to panel backing and electrical connectors. A rubber patch attached with silicone sealant will do fine. Motor Supply Voltage Check Set Multimeter to DCVolts. Place key in run position. Being careful to not short the motor switch lead connection points, each one of the two points should read 12Vdc to ground when the window switch is operated in the direction it supplies. (Dk Blue up, Brown down) Operate window switch in both up and down directions to confrim voltage available from a good switch. If the 12Vdc is present beyond the switch, then the motor is faulty. If voltage is not present for this check, the upstream wiring or switch should be suspect. Remove key from ignition. 8. If watershield is to be removed. With door panel in the tilted service position, disconnect electrical sockets at window/locks, seat/mirror and fuel and trunk switches. Make a note of how all these wires run through the watershield. 9. Lift interior door trim panel off lower lug holes and set aside. 10. The water shield is attached by two plastic push lock disks and a continus bead of "self sealing" rubber. This sticky rubber bead is reusable, so take care to keep it clean and the shield in a shady place. 11. Using a long, thin, click stop razor or other suitable cutter, slowly pull away a top corner of the watershield while cutting the sticky rubber seal to release it. These two cut edges will fuse again when pressed together at assembly. Questions? estaver1@bellsouth.net

These motors sold on 8-29.

These motor sets sold on 8-29.

Questions? contact me at estaver1@bellsouth.net PN = 16507163 LH & 16507164 RH $50 ea. These units were removed from my '89 Reatta in August of '98. At that time I had tried to order just the "crank arm" from the local dealer but was told that only the entire motor/gearbox/crank arm was available. I fell for their baloney. Thus... I had two new complete assemblies that I then installed and two old ones to rebuild and use for spares. These old units had two problems: Bad "clutch" rollers and wallowed out "crank arms". At that time the spare units were opened up and the "clutch" rollers were replaced with Durlin and the motor brushes inspected and found to be in fine condition. I just opened up both units today and confirmed that all is well, and I also applied 12V to each, in both directions. I would use each today on my own Reatta if I still had her, and she needed the work. I sold my Reatta last year and now do not need these spares. The crank arms are still wallowed out, but I have suitably repaired other of these in the past by drilling and tapping threads for a set screw through the "hub" over with location of where the "flat" on the output shaft of the gearbox lines up inside the "crank" hub. Since this motor drive shaft "flat" does not have to be located at the same place as it originally was... (to engage the old raised "dogs" that were cast into the hub)... you can drill your hole anywhere on the hub that is easy to work and that still allows the set screw to land on the "flat". Install the "crank" on the output shaft and tighten the set screw. Rotate the manual up/down knob until things line up to install the linkage arm and bolts. Shipping cost will be determined by the level of service you desire. Weight for each drive is 2.5 lbs. Shipped from ZIP 29407 Charleston, SC

Questions? contact me at estaver1@bellsouth.net PN = 16507163 LH & 16507164 RH These units were removed from my '89 Reatta in August of '98. At that time I had tried to order just the "crank arm" from the local dealer but was told that only the entire motor/gearbox/crank arm was available. I fell for their baloney. Thus... I had two new complete assemblies that I then installed and two old ones to rebuild and use for spares. These old units had two problems: Bad "clutch" rollers and wallowed out "crank arms". At that time the spare units were opened up and the "clutch" rollers were replaced with Durlin and the motor brushes inspected and found to be in fine condition. I just opened up both units today and confirmed that all is well, and I also applied 12V to each, in both directions. I would use each today on my own Reatta if I still had her, and she needed the work. I sold my Reatta last year and now do not need these spares. The crank arms are still wallowed out, but I have suitably repaired other of these in the past by drilling and tapping threads for a set screw through the "hub" over with location of where the "flat" on the output shaft of the gearbox lines up inside the "crank" hub. Since this motor drive shaft "flat" does not have to be located at the same place as it originally was... (to engage the old raised "dogs" that were cast into the hub)... you can drill your hole anywhere on the hub that is easy to work and that still allows the set screw to land on the "flat". Install the "crank" on the output shaft and tighten the set screw. Rotate the manual up/down knob until things line up to install the linkage arm and bolts. Shipping cost will be determined by the level of service you desire. Weight for each drive is 2.5 lbs. Shipped from ZIP 29407 Charleston, SC

As an industrial electrician, I've seen many plastic components go south just like what you see in the picture. The cause... spray type contact cleaner. Just a couple of seconds after being applied, ruin. There's no repair short of replacement. It's good for use directly on electrical contacts, but most plastic relay bodies or panels... she no like.

Rattle drove me crazy for a couple of years. After routine replacement of my struts... no more rattle, no matter the road condition.

Dan My Man.... you see, lots of great, friendly help here at the forum. I don't know what I would have done without them when I had my '89. My '99 Riv is now my daily driver and that supercharger really moves her down the road when needed. Still miss not seeing those Reatta style lines reflected in shop windows as I drive by.

Saw your brake question via my home e-mail, but I'm having trouble using the forum to view it. I'm at estaver1@bellsouth.net . That address will let me talk to you directly if needed. As to your question... I no longer have a Reatta shop manual. Sorry, but I don't recall the connector pin layout. Many folks here at the forum have lots of info. and experience on brake issues. Suggest you post here with that question about "Pressure switch pin circuit" Drew

This manual has been sold.

This manual has been sold.

Helm Final Edition...Purchased in '96 and used regulary for the 14 years that my coupe lived here. Took her to her new home today with 198K candles on her cake. So I won't be needing my shop manual anymore. All pages intact, but after 14 years of doing nearly all my own maintenance, many have highlighted passages and notes to myself. The covers are shopworn but all original info. is safely between them, with no loose pages. I don't believe there are any dirty finger prints or smudges to disappoint you in the interior. Will supply detailed photos if desired. If you buy, feel free to call when you have a question about Reatta issues, I'd be glad to share what repair experience I have. $50.00 + whatever shipping you'd like. Best to mail me at estaver1@bellsouth.net or call 843.571.5367 or cell 843.327.0994

I would suggest pulling the O2 sensor also because it makes getting to the back rear plug a lot easier... but the back side is still a hand mangler. I agree with gapping at .045, it made a world of differance in performance for my '89 w/198K miles. Factory calls for .060.

Helm Final Edition...Purchased in '96 and used regulary for the 14 years that my coupe lived here. Took her to her new home today with 198K candles on her cake. So I won't be needing my shop manual anymore. All pages intact, but after 14 years of doing nearly all my own maintenance, many have highlighted passages and notes to myself. The covers are shopworn but all original info. is safely between them, with no loose pages. I don't believe there are any dirty finger prints or smudges to disappoint you in the interior. Will supply detailed photos if desired. If you buy, feel free to call when you have a question about Reatta issues, I'd be glad to share what repair experience I have. $50.00 + whatever shipping you'd like. Best to mail me at estaver1@bellsouth.net or call 843.571.5367 or cell 843.327.0994

This little girl has a new home. Sold today.

Daily driver, personally maintained/repaired for 14 years. 198 K miles. 85% Interstate miles. Still running strong, but I need a utility vehicle and don't want to carry 3 cars on insurance. No rust, sound body, strong drive train and brakes. She needs paint badly. Photos on request. estaver1@bellsouth.net ph. 843.571.5367 Drew....Charleston, SC Year ' 89 $1500.00 Coupe Mileage:__198K Considered Correct? (Y) Location:_Charleston, SC Ph.843.571.5367 Title: Clear Yes Any Accident History? Y, parking lot scrape, See detail below. Asking Price: $1500 Willing to take trade N Exterior Color: Garnet, Dark Red Interior Color: Tan Paint Original? (N) Paint Condition? (Poor) Belt & Bumper Molding Color: (Black) Body Dents: (Y) Driver Door, Shallow, 1/4 in wide. x 10'' long, 4in. above bump strip, middle door, runs front to back. Body Rust: (N) Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (N) one stone chip professionally repaired '08 by vacuum/epoxy. Vent Glass Intact? (Y) Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? Fair/Poor Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? Fair/Poor Out Side Mirrors Intact? Y Headlight Motors Function Correctly? Duralin Nylon clutch inserts installed, and bellcranks have set screws at drive shafts. Tail Light Lens: Clear Interior Original? Y 16 Way Seats? N Seat Condition? Driver = Rump poor/ Backrest good, Passenger. = Good Drivers interior door panel condition? Good Passengers interior door panel condition? Good Center console top armrest condition? Fair, 1" crack at elbow rest point Door weather stripping condition? Good Headliner Condition? Good Carpet Condition? Good Original Floor Mats: N Floor Mat Condition: Fair Condition of Steering Wheel Leather Orig. poor under new leather laced wrap Sun Roof? N Problems with Electronic Dash items? N Power Windows Work Correctly? Y Power Seats Work Correctly? Y Power Door Locks Work Correctly? Y Power Antenna Work Correctly? N, needs new mast, Motor good. Original Sound System? Y Radio and all speakers fine, cassette eats tapes A/C Functional? Y Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? Y Does the suspension require any attention? N Replaced at "k"miles: front and rear struts 165k , front control links 165k , front hubs 174k , power steering cyl.132k Tire Brand: Kumho Rear, Cooper Front Remaining Tread: 90 % Factory Wheels? Y Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: Fair Missing Caps? (__0__) number Any Brake Components Replaced? Y at....k miles Fluid flush 156k, pressure Switch 196k, Ft. rotors and pads 152k, rear pads 147k Accumulator 165k, Pump/Motor joint seal 196k Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? at 156k Original Engine? Y Original Engine Rebuilt? N Does Engine require attention? No, items replaced at "k" miles. Water Pump at 121k, Crank Balancer 122k, Alternator 139k, Ign. Coil and Module 142k, Dog Bone Eng. Mount 153k, Fuel Filter 153k, Cam Magnet 174k, Battery 178k, Thermostat 195deg 187k, Coolant Temp. Sensor 187k, Throttle Pos. sensor 187k, Upper Rad. Hose 187k, Throttle body and Mass Air cleaned189k, 3 New firewall relays 190k, When was last tune up? 190k Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? Y Minor at rear valve cover. How often do you change the oil? 4000mi Original Transmission? Y Original Transmission Rebuilt? N Does Transmission require attention? N When was last Transmission Service? at 84k, and 161k Filter and fluid. Any Transmission Leaks? N Have CV joints been replaced? Y If Y when and how many miles ago? 50k ago. I have No receipts for this vehicle's service history. 98% work done by owner, and noted in owner's manual record. Does the car have the owners manual ? Y In General, What items need attention? Exterior paint, upper dash top cracked, front air dam missing, shift selector light for Overdrive out, cassette player eats tapes, interior rear storage area carpet worn, drivers seat lower leather poor. Rear storage hatches don't lock. My Reatta Drives: Excellent I am the ___2nd___owner of this Reatta. I have owned this Reatta for ___14__ Years 77K miles when purchased. Contact Me at 843.571.5367 or email at estaver1@bellsouth.net

A bit of experience from today's troubleshooting... Had no voltage available to driver's side switch. (#10 gauge, Orange w/black stripe, 30 Amp circuit) Found this wire had completely broken inside the flex bellows that connects the door to body. 10 gauge is a pretty stout wire and I can't imagine what stress would have parted it. From what I could see, all other wires running in that route are fine. Suppose 21 years of flexing when door swings could be the cause. Here's what was involved in repairing this fault: To gain access to the point where the wire enters the body, the carpet and door carpet trim strip must be removed. The wire runs from the flex bellows, down to a taped splice, about 10 inches back in a plastic wire way along the door sill. This splice is where you can verify that 12V is available from main body wiring. This Org/Blk is always hot, so take care not to ground it when the tape is removed, unless you pull the seat circuit breaker. The sill trim strip has a thin, center wall that runs down the middle of it's whole length. This wall engages three spring clip jaws set into the body sill. These clips are located 19, 9 and 4 inches from the rear end of trim strip. You have to be very careful prying this up as to not crack the plastic trim strip. Work a stiff putty knife along the edges, prying up a bit all along the length. Don't try to completely release each one. Work them all out in turn, a bit at a time. After the clips are free, you can pull the long tab end of the "J" shape from behind the front trim. The Carpet: To fold it back out of the way, remove the under dash cover beneath the steering column. The wing nuts behind the brake pedal are a point where the carpet must be released. Pry the molded carpet edge off the door sill runner and fold back what carpet you can behind the brake pedal. Before opening up the kick panel by the park brake, check for voltage at the splice in the sill mentioned above. If voltage is there, you prob. have the same broken wire to the door. If no voltage at splice, I really don't know where the Org/Blk runs from there. Fixing the wire: The door panel must be removed. The woofer speaker should be removed for hand access. The electrical tape along the door wire bundle that the Org/Blk runs in must be removed if the Org/Blk won't pull back to open air for splicing. At the interior park brake area kick panel, open up the rear section of plastic wire way and fold forward. Org/Blk should be visible (if needed, the entire plastic wireway/kick panel can be released from the body by prying out the two, ribbed push pin retainers. Pull broken end of Org/Blk to open air. At the door Org/Blk, butt splice a new length of suitable gauge wire. Feed new wire along door bundle and through door/body bellows. Butt splice new wire to body Org/Blk. Insure sill area splice is well taped. Test seat functions. Replace panel, carpet and trim.

Every once in a while I will get an "low oil" warning. Every time, when checked, the level is fine. After a stop engine and restart... no warning. Reatta quirks. Interesting about the reed orientation mentioned above, it makes perfect sense...if indeed it is a float switch.

I was concerned when I replaced my pump/motor joint seal. After replacing the seal, the pump ran and ran and ran for a long time. The problem was that when tearing down the pump/motor joint, all brake fluid is lost from the pump body. It takes a while for the pump to purge all the air and to again become fully flooded from the resorvoir. If you're certain you have a flooded inlet, just let the pump run for a few minutes to purge and flood. There is enough fluid entering the pump to ensure lubrication so no harm is done by the air cavitation until things stabilize.

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/teves-service-chapter-270358-2.html Here's the forum link to my posting about the ABS pump/motor seal that I mentioned above. Any questions... drop a line to estaver1@bellsouth.net Text on PAGE 3 of this link.

I don't know how far along in your troubleshooting you have progressed but, I've had the whole pump/motor unit off to replace the seal between the motor and pump. This is a flat rubber seal ring that is prob. not available. I made a new one from heavy auto gasket material. The 1st question is... is the pump running at all? From what I could see of the pump inlet, it looks like a vane type pump. I have worked in Hydraulics for many years and it would be unlikely that the pump it's self has worn enough to not provide the flow and pressure needed to charge the accumulator, due to an always flooded inlet and not that many hours running over the years. Now if the motor drive shaft or metal coupling disk was broken, that could disable the pump, but these are rather sturdy links. Later, my problems with no brake pressure were due to a bad pressure switch. The pump never came on at low pressure and braking was hard pedal and lot's of effort to slow the girl down. I've posted a description of pulling the pump/motor unit here a few months ago and will add it's link to this thread in a few moments.

Thought I'd also mention that after the .045 plug gap cleared the problem, I didn't change my coil and module to the Delco. I just saw a note from Padgett that this may be a temp. fix. If I can round up a Delco package at my local yard, I think I'll go ahead and make the change just to ensure peak performance.

Thought I should mention that after finding the .045 plug gap worked as a fix to this problem, I did not replace my Motorola Coil Pack as it appears to be performing fine.

Not sure if this applies to the convertable, but my '89 coupe trunk release solenoid has an engagement disk on the end of the moveable plunger that pulls the release lever. Mine broke off and you could hear the solenoid activate but it would not release the latch because the the attachment point was missing. I used a golf club shaft to trip the manual release lever by accessing through the pass through hatch. I could find no way to repair the broken shaft end, so the whole release solenoid had to be replaced. Got a used one from our great, good friend Jim Finn.

Again, thanks to all forum members for your advice on this problem. I looked at all the suggested sources of this stumble but found no problems. Recently I decided to go with the Delco coil and module upgrade the Padgett the Man has created as an instructional. (great) In that piece mention was made about looking at using .045 gap on the plugs instead of the factory .060 setting. Low and behold... stumble is now history. Throttle response is again immediate and clean in Overdrive, on uphill or the flat. I had prepared to pull out my last two good hairs trying to fix this problem. Now I can do that comb over as planned. Thanks to Padgett for taking the time to create his many helpful postings and tips. Drew in Charleston, SC