Guest low'n slow Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I need a new booster for my 63 Riv. So far the local parts stores have come up empty. Any suggestions?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim63riv Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Doug,http://boosterdeweyexchange.comNo new or remanufactured boosters are available, but Dewey can rebuild yours. A good friend had his done by Dewey and it works great.HTH,Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Or, if originality is not a concern to you, go with a later model booster ('67+) plus dual master cylinder. Get the booster you need and a safety upgrade all at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerRivFan Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I'm probably the last person who should chime in on technical questions, but I just had my '65 professionally restored and my restorer more or less insisted on installing a dual master set-up for the safety aspect Jim mentioned... Just my two cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest low'n slow Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 So just any 67 or newer booster and dual master cylinder will work? Do I need a proportioning valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 You shouldn't need a proprotioning valve unless you have drum AND disk brakes. Disk brakes require up to 200 psi more than drum for the same stopping power. Disk-disk (front & rear) and drum-drum (front & rear) don't need a proportioning valve, power booster or no power booster.If you don't use a proportioning valve on disk-drum brakes, the back wheels will lock-up before the fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim63riv Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Doug,I installed a 67 Riviera dual resevoir master cylinder on my ORIGINAL 63 booster, you don't need a 67 booster to make it work, just an o-ring to seal up the vacuum. It's been on my car for 5 years with zero issues. I guess it all depends on how original looking you want to keep your car. The dual master set up is a very good idea for safety sake, but don't forget to replace the brake lines, hoses, wheel cylinders and brake hardware to do a really through job of it.HTH,Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest low'n slow Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desmc14 Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 I found one last year...its in and works well... there were a few on the web at various parts establishments... Napa was one..Car stuff... I think and there were also boosters with master cylinders all in one available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex bonino Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 And what about rebuild kits?Are there any sources for just the rebuild kits on the brake boosters?thanksalexroa 11550 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alex bonino</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And what about rebuild kits?Are there any sources for just the rebuild kits on the brake boosters?thanksalexroa 11550 </div></div>Not that I have ever seen. But you'd think they must exist. I guess you need to ask at a good auto parts store if they can order one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the optimist Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Please bear with me since I'm a newbie still wet behind the ears. I hate to ask dumb questions but I have never been clear on this. When you say "dual master cyl.," are we talking about two single reservoir masters or one dual reservoir master? Tim, can you tell me what size o-ring that was? That is fabulous news to me since a previous owner has made a real mess of my brake set up. The booster looks original but the master has a plastic reservoir and has the "Ford" logo on it. Whether or not the rod is original or not I don't know yet. Thanks, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: the optimist</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Please bear with me since I'm a newbie still wet behind the ears. I hate to ask dumb questions but I have never been clear on this. When you say "dual master cyl.," are we talking about two single reservoir masters or one dual reservoir master? Tim, can you tell me what size o-ring that was? That is fabulous news to me since a previous owner has made a real mess of my brake set up. The booster looks original but the master has a plastic reservoir and has the "Ford" logo on it. Whether or not the rod is original or not I don't know yet. Thanks, Paul </div></div>Welcome, Paul!There are no dumb questions around here. Don't worry about it.A dual master cylinder is a one-piece casting with 2 reservoirs and a special piston that puts pressure out of 2 separate ports when you step on the brake pedal. A nifty piece of engineering that gives you brakes on one pair of wheels if there is a leak in the brake system on the other pair of wheels. Without it (with a stock single master cylinder) you have no brakes at all if you have a leak.Take that Ford master cylinder off of there and put one on from a '67 full size Buick with drum brakes on front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimtash Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Do the stock steel lines bolt up to the dual master cylinder or will those have to be replaced as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: whalerman03</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I found one last year...its in and works well... there were a few on the web at various parts establishments... Napa was one..Car stuff... </div></div>Don't count on these places having a '63 booster in stock. All told me they had one when I needed it last fall, two even took my credit card number. Each came back about a week later to say they did not actually have a '63 booster in stock. I have been told a '64 will interchange, but the vacuum hookup is different, so it would not look 100% original. Just my two cents.Steve OwensOklahoma City'63 low and slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 And what about rebuild kits?Are there any sources for just the rebuild kits on the brake boosters?For my 67 I just went through a month long process checking every source I could think of both likely and unlikely ones and came up with with a big fat Zero. Very frustrating. These things are fairly easy to rebuild. The shops that offer the rebuilding service have to get the parts somewhere and neither of the two popular ones would tell me where or sell me just the parts. Can't say I blame them because that would cut into there business. I was told that no rebuilt parts or kits are available in the retail market. Your option is to buy a rebuilt booster or send yours to be rebuilt.I know it has always been a big topic to convert single master cylinder systems to dual for "<span style="font-style: italic">safety</span>" reasons but when it comes to a Classic car that is typically garage kept and well maintained, I do not think it is really much of a safety hazard running a single cylinder, but thats just my opinion. Thats what the E-brake is for. Insure the steel lines are good, install a rebuilt master cylinder and flush the fluid every 3-5 years and you'll likely never have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the optimist Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Take that Ford master cylinder off of there and put one on from a '67 full size Buick with drum brakes on front and rear. I went to a local parts house (actually two) who could order the master cyl. for a '67 quickly enough but there were two types; one w/ a shallow piston hole and one with a deep one. The shallow one was a Delco type and the deep one was a bendix type. Since the '63 has an adjustable rod (from what I understand)does it matter which one? If so which one would be the correct or better fit? Being as my system has been corrupted with a Ford master cyl. I can't even reliably compare with the old one. They were nice enough to take the old one for a switch out though. Thanks again, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: the optimist</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I went to a local parts house (actually two) who could order the master cyl. for a '67 quickly enough but there were two types; one w/ a shallow piston hole and one with a deep one. The shallow one was a Delco type and the deep one was a bendix type. Since the '63 has an adjustable rod (from what I understand)does it matter which one? If so which one would be the correct or better fit?</div></div>Yes, it matters. The adjustable push rod is not THAT adjustable. You need to get the MC that matches your booster. If you get the MC with the shallow hole in the piston and you actually need the one with the deeper hole, the master cylinder will not bolt on to the booster without pushing the piston in. You should be able to tell if that is what is going on and then you know you have to get the other MC. So start out with the MC with the shallow hole.You must put a rubber ring seal on the MC (once you figure out which one you need) to seal at the neck where it slides into the booster. If you do not, you have a massive vacuum leak there and you will have no power brake boost. Many people leave out that seal and then wonder why they can't stop the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the optimist Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Great! I'll follow your advice and try that. You guys are very helpful and quite gracious. Thanks again, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ejc65 Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 I found an interesting link about this topic please readhttp://www.blowupthespot.com/press/65-buick-riviera/dual-well-master-cylinder-conversion/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxnard Montalvo Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm trying to figure out what upgrade will work for a '63 Riviera. The booster is bad and I'm aware of Boosterdewey's services, but I would prefer to go with a newer booster and a matched dual MC. The existing MC bolted on with two bolts and had a deep recess for the pushrod. Is there a bolt in replacement for the whole shabang? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm trying to figure out what upgrade will work for a '63 Riviera. The booster is bad and I'm aware of Boosterdewey's services, but I would prefer to go with a newer booster and a matched dual MC. The existing MC bolted on with two bolts and had a deep recess for the pushrod. Is there a bolt in replacement for the whole shabang? Thanks.Yes, but it isn't cheap. After almost a year of trial and tribulation, I gave up on my stock system. Contacted Master Power Brake in CA. and told him what I needed. Never done one of those before, he says, but if you will send me your old unit, including the pedal assembly, I can build you one. Six weeks later I had a late model Corvette booster and master cylinder to install. And it fit like a glove. Warning, you will be under the dash the first time you hit the brakes if you don't have seat belts in your car. He may or may not have made patterns from the items I sent him. He may have enough information to do yours, or you may have to send all your stuff in like I did. This is not cheap, and I don't want to quote prices for him. I will say that mine fit very well and works great. Not original looking by any means, but works way better. Best picture I have is below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kingoftheroad Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Yes, but it isn't cheap. After almost a year of trial and tribulation, I gave up on my stock system. Contacted Master Power Brake in CA. and told him what I needed. Never done one of those before, he says, but if you will send me your old unit, including the pedal assembly, I can build you one. Six weeks later I had a late model Corvette booster and master cylinder to install. And it fit like a glove. Warning, you will be under the dash the first time you hit the brakes if you don't have seat belts in your car. He may or may not have made patterns from the items I sent him. He may have enough information to do yours, or you may have to send all your stuff in like I did. This is not cheap, and I don't want to quote prices for him. I will say that mine fit very well and works great. Not original looking by any means, but works way better. Best picture I have is below.Nice ! Did you upgrade to disc brakes too ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Nice ! Did you upgrade to disc brakes too ?On the list, but haven't at this time. I don't push this car that hard, and just needed reliable brakes. This really woke up the stock drums and now I am not sure I need to make the change. As stated, it will slide you under the dash in the floor if you aren't ready when you hit the pedal. After this upgrade, discs moved down the list a ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kingoftheroad Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 On the list, but haven't at this time. I don't push this car that hard, and just needed reliable brakes. This really woke up the stock drums and now I am not sure I need to make the change. As stated, it will slide you under the dash in the floor if you aren't ready when you hit the pedal. After this upgrade, discs moved down the list a ways.I've thought about maybe upgrading to disc brakes sometime in the future. I didn't want to upgrade my OEM type master cylinder when upgrading to discs being as I just replaced my master cylinder not to many years ago. I try to keep her as stock as possible but, have made some upgrades for safety, reliability, & convenience sake too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I've thought about maybe upgrading to disc brakes sometime in the future. I didn't want to upgrade my OEM type master cylinder when upgrading to discs being as I just replaced my master cylinder not to many years ago. I try to keep her as stock as possible but, have made some upgrades for safety, reliability, & convenience sake too.King, keep in mind that if you do decide to upgrade to discs in the front, you will have to change to a dual master cylinder and a proportioning valve for them to work correctly. No matter how new your single master cylinder is, it won't work with the discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kingoftheroad Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 King, keep in mind that if you do decide to upgrade to discs in the front, you will have to change to a dual master cylinder and a proportioning valve for them to work correctly. No matter how new your single master cylinder is, it won't work with the discs.Thats what I heard... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K. Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Auto Zone can get the booster and I got one a few months ago. It is very close in appearance with only a couple of very minor contour differences than my original. At 75 bucks and only a $50 core I kept my original one. Link below. I got it in a day. If time had not been an issue, I would have used Booster Dewey. I am always happy with his work. Brake Power Booster | 1964 Buick Riviera 8 Cylinders 7.0L 4BL OHV | AutoZone.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest larbo2638 Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Steve,In your reply to this question, you said you used a late model Corvette booster and master cylinder. Can you tell me what year it was from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Steve,In your reply to this question, you said you used a late model Corvette booster and master cylinder. Can you tell me what year it was from?I don't know the exact year. All metal, no plastic. I think early to mid 90's, but again, I do not know the exact year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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