the optimist

I should also add, which I neglected to mention before, that when you try a screwdriver in the latch from the back seat side put the key in the lock and make sure that it will turn the little that it is turning now first. This will make it easier to open the latch and keep you from breaking the tailstem off the back of the lock. Paul

I've been a locksmith for over thirty years Ed,s suggestion of a long screwdriver is on the right track. What we used to do with these back when I was a kid working with my dad at the lock shop was duct tape a flat head screwdriver to a broom handle. this does two thing: first it of course makes it longer so it will reach the latch, second, it offsets the position of the pole so your "reaching tool" doesn't block your view of the "manipulating tool." On the back of the latch you will indeed see a slot with a flat stem from the lock cylinder sticking through. Put the tip of the screwdriver beside the stem and give it a counter clockwise turn. this should open the trunk lid assuming that the latch itself is not the culprit. if it is you will need to stack extensions and unbolt the latch with a ratchet wrench. I should preface this by telling you to check and make sure you don't have a tee shirt or luggage strap or something else stuck in the latch, or say, a box putting pressure on the lid. You should be able to see this if you have the seat out. If that is the case then try alternately pushing down and pulling up on the lid while working the key.If this doesn't work then you will have to unbolt the latch as I previously mentioned. Once you get the lid open remove the U shaped clip and take the lock to a reputable locksmith in your area for repair.If you have a lock cover trim you may have to drill two pop rivets to remove it. The problem is most likely a spring cap that has broken or come unstaked inside the lock cylinder. This is not something that you can repair yourself since you either need replacement face caps or a specialized tool to pull and remove the existing cap(which is , believe it or not preferable). There is a sheet metal cap on top of the tumbler springs which holds them in place. Sometimes the factory either didn't stake it in place sufficiently or it was not staked in place at all. The problem can most likely be repaired. It it usually better to do this than to replace it with a cheap Chinese made aftermarket lock. If you do replace it try to get either NOS or a good replacement such as old Briggs and Stratton, ASP or Strattec. Try to find either an old guy who has been a locksmith since these cars were relatively new or a younger guy who has been in the business his whole life to work on it. Anyone who loves what he does and has a real zest for it will be good. As a rule of thumb if they get excited about your cool old car they will probably treat it well. You can always go to them to open the lid also which may be better (depending on the technician) since they may have more experience and make short work of it. Locksmiths are usually cheaper than you would expect if you find a good one. Whatever you do don't lose your cool and get forceful with it. Remember, a lock's job is to make it hard for you. Let someone who is trained do it if you feel you are over your head. If all else fails let me know where you are and I'll see if I know someone in the area to help you out. Locksmith's are a band of brothers and will help each other out normally. Good luck, Be careful and Keep me posted Paul

Great! I'll follow your advice and try that. You guys are very helpful and quite gracious. Thanks again, Paul

I was wondering what the color was originally. Thanks that's useful information. Paul

My '63 Riviera has a 401 from a '63 Electra. I wondered what "value" effect that has. This is somewhat of a mute point since I plan to be buried in this car but the intrinsic value is still important. In full disclosure, the car has been painted to white from metallic blue (which I plan to change back) and there have been some other small changes mainly under the hood. It will probably never be completely original but I would like to keep it as close as possible. What is your opinion?

Take that Ford master cylinder off of there and put one on from a '67 full size Buick with drum brakes on front and rear. I went to a local parts house (actually two) who could order the master cyl. for a '67 quickly enough but there were two types; one w/ a shallow piston hole and one with a deep one. The shallow one was a Delco type and the deep one was a bendix type. Since the '63 has an adjustable rod (from what I understand)does it matter which one? If so which one would be the correct or better fit? Being as my system has been corrupted with a Ford master cyl. I can't even reliably compare with the old one. They were nice enough to take the old one for a switch out though. Thanks again, Paul

Please bear with me since I'm a newbie still wet behind the ears. I hate to ask dumb questions but I have never been clear on this. When you say "dual master cyl.," are we talking about two single reservoir masters or one dual reservoir master? Tim, can you tell me what size o-ring that was? That is fabulous news to me since a previous owner has made a real mess of my brake set up. The booster looks original but the master has a plastic reservoir and has the "Ford" logo on it. Whether or not the rod is original or not I don't know yet. Thanks, Paul