Cokekid Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 I just noticed that my rotor has a hairline crack and I want to replace it. I cannot fiqure out how to remove the damaged rotor.Can someone offer some advice.Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 You need to remove the screw with the little plate on the right side. the distributor mechanism can then be separated from the case by gently and carefully tapping it out the rear. If it's been "together" for a long time it will be snug. The rotor will come out with the assembly and you can remove it by pulling it off the shaft. Working with a small punch on the outside edge of the mechanism next to the aluminum case you should be able to separate the parts. The small brass tube at the rear will locate the mechanism when you reassemble. If you have already set the timing you should mark the location of the advance plate before removing it so you don't have to go thru that process again. Good luck. Oops! Shorttop is right, that vacuum brake plunger needs to be removed before the mechanism can be pushed out the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cokekid Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 Thanks for responding to my question. I will attempt to give it a try tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no more Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 what??have u benn working on points without dist dissassembly...??like centrifical advance..vac brake etc..hey coke..was your car running?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cokekid Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 I am working on a spare distributor and was not going to replaced any parts until I found out how to dismantle the distributor.Once I replace the points & rotor I can use my K.R.WILSON jig to reset the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 TO REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR MECHANISM BASE FROM THE ALUMINUM BODY YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE VACUUM RETARD PLUNGER AS WELL AS THE ADVANCE PLATE SCREW ON RIGHT SIDE. THE PLUNGER IS UNDER THE LARGE NUT ON LEFT SIDE. THERE IS A LARGE CIRCLIP IN FRONT OF THE MECHANISM BODY INSIDE ALUMINUM BODY AND IT CAN HELP BASE REMOVAL IF YOU UNCLIP THAT AS WELL. YOU CAN MOUNT THE DISTRIBUTOR BASE ON THE K.R. WILSON JIG WITHOUT THE ALUMINUM BODY, ITS EASIER TO GET AT THE POINTS. SET POINTS AT AROUND 13TH. AND FINELY ADJUST TO GET 36 DEGREES DURATION ON K.R. JIG, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. THE LZ DIS. IS TWO 6 CYL. IGN. SYSTEMS, LEFT AND RIGHT BANKS. THESE TWO BANKS ALSO NEED TO BE SYCRONISED SO THE 2 BANKS ARE IN STEP,AND NOT PULLING AGAINST EACH OTHER. THIS IS THE SECRET TO LZ. PERFORMANCE, OR LACK OF IT.FOLLOW THE K.R. INSTRUCTIONS,GOOD LUCK. THERE ARE SOME VERY GOOD TIPS ON SETTING THESE LZ. DISTS. UP IN PAST ISSUES OF LINCOLN ZEPHYR MAGAZINES. SOMEONE OUT THERE MAY BE ABLE TO LET YOU KNOW WHICH ISSUES THEY ARE. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billboos Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Are you aware of any instructions for removing/installing entire distributor and coil from the block. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19tom40 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 They are in the Service Bulletins. My copy is not currently available. Mac's has them available on CD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Overfield Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Disconnect battery cable, remove the radiator fan, (three special bolts on the backside of the fan). Remove the two wires on top of the distributor going to the two condensers. Remove the vacuum line from the distributor. Push the distributor bales (springs) off the the distributor caps, remove caps and let them hang by the wires. Remove the three bolts behind the distributor and remove distributor. When installing, don't force anything, if it doesn't fit back properly, turn the drive lug on the rear of the distributor 180 degrees, you will notice the slot on the cam is offset so the drive for the distributor can only go on one way. Good luck, it's easier than it sounds. If it doesn't come straight out after removing the three mounting bolts, it is simply stuck to the gasket, gently tap and it will come once the gasket seal is broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken/Alabama Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Tom_Overfield said: Disconnect battery cable, remove the radiator fan, (three special bolts on the backside of the fan). Remove the two wires on top of the distributor going to the two condensers. Remove the vacuum line from the distributor. Push the distributor bales (springs) off the the distributor caps, remove caps and let them hang by the wires. Remove the three bolts behind the distributor and remove distributor. When installing, don't force anything, if it doesn't fit back properly, turn the drive lug on the rear of the distributor 180 degrees, you will notice the slot on the cam is offset so the drive for the distributor can only go on one way. Good luck, it's easier than it sounds. If it doesn't come straight out after removing the three mounting bolts, it is simply stuck to the gasket, gently tap and it will come once the gasket seal is broken. Never had to remove the fan to get the distributor out before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Overfield Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 you may very well be right. My engine is out on a stand with the fan on, I went out and looked before I wrote the suggestion about the fan, it appears to be a close fit to me but either way will work, I prefer the additional room of having the fan off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSpringer Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 It saves knuckles to pull the fan. I ground down a box end wrench to fit the bolts. Part of my LZ toolkit now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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