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Everything posted by peecher

  1. Appears to be the type used on 70's Lincolns. Continental Mark's used a "narrowed" version I believe.
  2. That "blue" air cleaner is off a 1966 or 1967 Lincoln 462 cubic engine.
  3. Probably a 1965 and it has a 430 cubic inch engine. The grill would confirm it.
  4. You will need a "spring spreader" that will fit beneath the spring contacting the outer ends. The spreader will length the spring so that the shackles can be mounted. The "old" time method was to mount the spring on the cross member and lower the car on to couple of stout blocks under the shackle end of the spring. Either way you must be careful! Be sure to check the cross member where the spring mount for cracks especially around the center mount hole.
  5. Yes , even though "they" tell you the pumps are rebuilt/made with soft parts that are "fuel" proof; they aren't. Some seem to lose their "seal" at the diaphragm after about a year? I've had the best luck with pumps from Earle Brown Jr.; see "sources".
  6. Sounds like one of two things could be wrong: either the one way stator clutch in the torque convertor is bad/slipping or the main forward clutch in the transmission is slipping. If the slipping is present in Reverse I suspect the problem is in the torque convertor.
  7. You might try contacting Ken Austin at A-dec ( Austin Dental Equipment) in Newburg, Oregon . He had a sideline business supplying multi-cab manifolds for Ford and Lincoln flat head engines, including the flathead Lincoln 337. I bought 3 four- barrel V-12 manifolds from him and they were quality pieces and fit and performed well. I don't know if he's still doing this but it's worth a try. He may even be able to help sourcing the heads. Good luck
  8. You may be confusing over steer with loose steering. Excess clearance in the steering gear ( worm and sector) is a major cause of this especially considering the age. "Wandering", having to constantly correct while driving, is a sure sign even tho the linkage and alignment are ok. There are shims under the sector shaft that many times can be adjusted to correct the mesh between the worm and sector. Loss of the steering gear lubricant probably accelerates the wear between the worm and sector.
  9. A few years back I re-bored a '42 block to accept 3-1/16" Ford racing pistons. We determined that the cylinder wall thickness came to an average of 1/4". Everything seems Ok and no "leakage of any kind hasn't occurred. Head gaskets coverage is right on the cylinder edge so that is a concern so you may have to be careful when selecting gaskets. Cylinder blocks are probably different from '42 and '46. My '42 block has no casting numbers or letters on it. I have head that the first 1800 cars produce in 1945 (dubbed 1946 models) had casting problems so they returned to the 292 cubic inch design with other improvements for the later model '46 to '48 cars. Evident the problem with the early '46 was with the cylinder walls. Some(most?) engines couldn't be re-bored. I think it would be wise to check the date of the block you have.
  10. It's probably carbon. The hole is for exhaust which heats the riser section in the manifold.
  11. The brass screw is actually a brass plug. There should be 2, one forward of the carb and one to the rear of the carb on the left side of the manifold. These plugs are used to cover the access hole drilled in the side of the manifold to drill the "equalizing" holes in the inner division wall between the left and right intake runners.
  12. Even though the name plate is "bent" in the middle the pins go in straight and are parallel. There are no retaining nuts, just pry it straight out working a little from side to side with a thin bladed screwdriver. try to work it out as evenly as you can. I've done 2 without busting them.
  13. What year car do you have?
  14. It appears you have a Melling 15 pump from the photo you posted.
  15. The Melling 15 oil pump requires NO modification to the oil pan but the screen pick-up probably will. You will need about 3/8th of an inch clearance to the inside bottom of the pan. If you are using the old prewar pan the "cup" on the pan will need to be flattened for clearance for the screen pickup. You will also need to rotate the oil return tube on the rear main bearing cap a little to make room for the pickup tube. You can bend the pickup tube/screen by hand after the pump is installed; it's important to have clearance between the screen and pan bottom.
  16. Just been busy with other things...still here, but minus one old Lincoln. Dee
  17. The fiber gear works fine in a Ford V8 but the added load of 8 more valve springs (stronger than Ford) is probably the reason the Lincoln started using aluminum gears in 1940. My dad had to replace the fiber gear on his '38 twice, once in 1940 and again in 1945. Modern fiber gears may be more durable? Old Henry love using as many interchangeable parts as he could.
  18. You do not need to remove any sheet metal to remove the radiator. Remove the fan, the top radiator hoses and the 2 bolts on either side of the bottom of the radiator. these bolts go thru the frame and are accessible near the front shock absorbers. loosen the clamps on the lower hoses and work the radiator down to free it from the hoses. You may have to get under the car to work the hoses loose. Once you get the radiator loose from the hoses remove the generator. Now lean the radiator back towards the engine as you pull it up out of the car. Be careful not to damage the headlight wiring on either side of the body where the hood opens. The radiator is very heavy and you should have some help when removing and replacing it.
  19. James, yes, I do have the cluster. I believe the '42 to '48 Lincoln OD tranny can be used in the '41. While the mounting is a little different you can change which mounting holes in the rear mount to use to get the proper angle for the torque tube hook up. I have heard of this being done on a '41 Continental. My e-mail is dpnpo@wavecable.com if you wish to purchase the cluster. Dee
  20. Another thought on the shimmy problem: Lincoln and others did some engineering and "spring loaded" the forward end of the left front spring supposedly to reduce or eliminate wheel "trump" and shimmy. I believe the front tires need to be as "equal" as possible: tread,size, wear and pressure.
  21. Here are the alignment specs for the Lincoln K. Caster,+1-1/2 Deg's, Camber,+1 deg., Toein,1/8",King pin inclination,, 7-1/2 deg's.
  22. Lee, there are a couple of components that may be faulty. One is the kick down switch under the gas pedal. The circuit from the governor goes thru the upper terminals of the switch and if the contacts in the switch are corroded the ground wire from the governor will not activate the relay (on the firewall). 2. the relay may be at fault; the points may also be corroded. You can remove the relay and carefully remove it's cover and clean up the points. You can also check the circuit by shorting the #5 terminal on the relay. If the relay and solenoid are ok you should get e "click" from the relay and louder "clunk" from the solenoid. No "clicks or clunks" would would indicate faulty relay, solenoid or wiring.
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