Hard starts & Backfires!

[Guest wayne2reattas]

For the last few days my problem has been getting worse. When starting the car cold it turns over but doesn't start. After trying two or three times it will start. Usually backfires once or twice during this whole process.

I only have this problem the first time I start it for the day or after it has sat at work for 10 or 12 hours. If I start it after it sits for an hour or two it starts fine.

Any help would REALLY be appreciated! Thanks....

Its an '88.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I would check for intake leaks.

One way I have done this is by spraying staring fluid along the intake gasket area, insuring not to spray the air intake. If the engine revs it is from the engine sucking in the starting fluid.

[Guest alex_houston]

My 2 cents- - -

I suggest you check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Sound to me as if you are loosing pressure since you apparently only have a cold start problem.

If this is the case, as a check you may want to consider turning the key on for a few seconds several times prior to starting. That will pressurize the fuel rail and the engine will not starve for gas when starting making for a "hard start".

If this solves your problem, the check valve in the fuel line is likely leaking back into the tank and needs replacing.

Of course as already suggested, the vacuum leak is a likely cause also but that would be at all times, hot or cold.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

That is very true a vaccume leak would most likely cause hard starts all the time.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

Thanks for the input. I am going to try turning the key on for a few seconds and see if that changes anything. Would this also cause the backfire?

[Ronnie]

I believe alex was suggesting turning the key on and off three or four times in a row, pausing between each cycle.

When you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds and shuts off. Turning the key on and off 3 or 4 times will ensure the pump is pressurizing the injectors before you try to start the engine. Just turning the key on one time may not be enough to pressurize the injectors if the check valve is bad and allowing the gas to flow back to the tank.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

Getting ready to leave now. Will give it a try. Thanks!!

[Roadster90]

Symptoms very much like a faulty prom/mel cal. There is a TSB covering the symptom/problem....pertains to 89 and early model 90 s' (may effect others as well if age is factored).

[DAVES89]

I think the back fire is due to having the gas up to the engine but poor spark. I believe the problem to be electrical. The TSM that Nic is referring to did not, [if I remember right] apply to the '88. I would start with the coil pack. Even if the goo is not coming out it could be a poor connection/contact. In my opinion this is borne out by the fact that it fires up well the rest of the day. If it were gas related, wouldn't the problem reoccur the rest of the day as well? Besides the coil pack upgrade is one of the easiest things to do as well as the cheapest.

[Roadster90]

I just remembered...I did have a "somewhat similar" situation like Dave commented once in which it was the ICM/coil. Coupe simply stopped on the road and would not start till the next morning.

The Dealer Service Bulletin (NOT TSB - sorry) that I wrote about above was printed in 1990 (# 90-6f-8) and did only apply to 89 and 90 models as I stated above....however, some 88/91 models have experienced the same problem as well....some consider the failure to be age related.

Anyway, if the basics are correct (fuel pressure, electronics), then it would be a good idea to look at my suggestion.....there are posts under my name referencing the condition as well....good luck

[Guest wayne2reattas]

I did exactly what Alex and Ronnie suggested. The car started fine. I let it idle a few minutes then it stalled. It started right up again with no problems. As I was backing out of the driveway it stalled again. It started again with no problem. Then ran fine after that. Is the backflow valve located in the tank with the pump or on the fuel rail? I do have another ICM and coil pack. But now don't know what to do first???? Thanks for all the help!!

[Ronnie]

Did the car have a fast idle as it should when first started? If not, I would start by cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) If not working properly the IAC can allow the car to stall. Instructions are here. It doesn't cost anything to clean it.

Next I would try the ICM and coil pack. They are easy to change. Instructions for changing to the Delco system are here. I changed to the Delco system and my car seems to run better.

Save the check valve for last because you must drop the fuel tank to replace it.

I don't believe the check valve would cause the stalling once the car is started. It can be the cause of hard starting.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

The car did idle fast as it should when I started it.

I think that I am going to just replace the check valve and fuel pump. I have had other issues previous to this that I think was the fuel pump , or possibly the check valve. I think that the check valve and or fuel pump have been going bad. But when I would have the fuel pressure checked it would be fine. But I think that the times I had it checked the fuel pump , at that particular time , was operating fine.

Any tips on replacing the fuel pump? What else should I replace while the tank is dropped. Can I use fuel injector line to replace any fuel lines that may possibly break during this? Thanks for all the input!

[Guest ekvh]

I just finished reading the posts, wayne2reattas, isn't this an awesome site! and it's nice to see so many good people still in the world...cyberworld that are willing to help. I have an old beater Reatta that will likely end up being a parts car for someone some day, but it's nice to know I can get the info needed to keep it going for now. If I keep this up I'll probably have to go to one of the get togethers and meet some of you.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

Just wanted to give an update... I replaced the coil pack , ICM , and IAC. Car starts fine and runs fine now!! Surprise to me - I would have bet on it being the check valve or fuel pump! Thanks to everyone for the input !

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

GOOD TO HEAR AND THANKS FOR THE UPDATE.

[Guest Drake]

Glad you're up and running again. As Daniel said, Nice to get an update that problem was resolved.

[padgett]

Repeat after me: Ignition problems can act like *anything*.

[Guest Drake]

Ignition problems can act like *anything*.

[89REATTAJIM]

Ignition problems can act like *anything*.

[Ronnie]

*anything* can act like ignition problems.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I was never very good at this game either.

[Guest ekvh]

Perhaps the world's most respected Goldwing carburetor expert, known as Randakk, says the same thing. Always check the ignition items before delving deeper and chasing gremlins in fuel issues. Glas to hear it was resolved.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

Forgot to mention this previously. I also put new plugs in. The plugs that were in had a .060 gap. I changed the new ones to .045. I also think this may have been some of my problem.

[padgett]

With a Magnavox ignition I gap .045. A really, really, tip top one can handle .060 like a Delco. Most can't. Even Delco advised .045 for #3 Rapidfires.

[Guest wayne2reattas]

Mine has a Magnavox. I just replaced it. After reading your info about gaps I checked the gap. Then when replacing the plugs changed to .045. Want to thank you for all your info about coil paks and plugs. Without reading that I would never have thought about reducing the gap. Thanks!!

[Roadster90]

Padgett....best plugs to use with the Magnavox please? Rapid Fires or __________?

Thanks

[Richard S]

I've been happy with Autolite Xtremes gapped to .55 with the Delco conversion and 10mm wires [i make my own starting with an HEI set and enlarging the hole in the stock boot. They cost no more than a stock set. The actual conductor is probably pretty much the same no matter what you use.]