Rusty gas tank

[Guest cardinal905]

I have a rusty interior in the gas tank of my new 26 Sedan, would like advice on handling this. Is using a bunch of 1/4'' nuts for shaking then sloshing around some tank sealer from Eastwood the way to go ??

[42crazy]

I see that you are now a "Buick" owner, now, it's time to join the Buick Club of America. You can find all the information on this website. Then, join the Gateway Chapter, I think you'll enjoy it, Paul

[Guest windjamer]

Cleaning the tank has been discused several times on this site. Eastwood and por15 both make a vary good kit. Use a leangh of chain instead of a bunch of nuts and follow the distructions. I have used por15 with great success

[51dyno]

How do the tank sealers hold up with ethenol being shoved at us????????????

[Guest simplyconnected]

Is it possible for you to buy a new gas tank? I don't know what aftermarket offers, but let me say this, whatever you do to strip rust, also strips the plating inside your tank. Yes, you can coat, but nothing is as durable as galvanized steel on a new tank.

Spend your money once and buy a new tank. Properly maintained, it should last many decades.

I bought a new tank, then cut a window in the old '55 Ford tank, just to see. I pulled five handfulls of rust out, and was amazed the car ever ran. I saw witness marks from varnish on the sides. My pick-up tube has a fine mesh screen that filled up, then back-flowed when the engine died. No wonder the car wouldn't go over 25.

I was going to do the chain thing, boogie-woogie around the back yard for a long time. Then get it stripped to bare metal, and buy a very expensive coating. The coating may block flow if it gets in the wrong places, but it has to be evenly coated everywhere. Then, hope none of it comes off later on.

It's hard to part with all that money for a new tank, but the cost is a little more than refurbishing, and you end up with a new tank. Any type of fuel is ok. Check eBay. That's where I got mine.

[Matt Harwood]

There's that company (Gas Tank Renu?) that offers lifetime guarantees on their work. I think it runs about $400, but the tank is coated inside and out with something, so it won't appear 100% original anymore. I feel very fortunate that the tank out of the Century seems to have been replaced recently and is in flawless condition. I shudder to think about the hassles of restoring one to functional condition.

[Guest cardinal905]

Thanks for the advice.

[Guest simplyconnected]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Matt Harwood</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There's that company (Gas Tank Renu?) that offers lifetime guarantees... </div></div>Right. I wonder if they will be around in thirty years to honor it. Do you think the receipt will be legible then? The ones I get are usually those press-thru copies that are designed to disappear after a few years. The heat sensitive ones are even worse.

Get a new galvanized steel tank and be confident it will be as good as factory-new.

My '55 Ford tank might be more available, but I paid $150 for it, brand-new. It was made in Canada.

[NTX5467]

You might check with some of the local radiator shops that also do gas tanks. Like what I had done with a much newer vehicle that had been sitting for about 15 years, they cleaned it and sealed it (with something, but they would not clean one without doing the sealing operation . . . total cost about $125.00--the company is a higher volume radiator wholesaler that also does repair work and has been around for about 30+ years).

You might also check the street rod magazines for gas tank suppliers for these vehicles. Some of the older tanks might be more universal than you might suspect, or you might find one that will fit your particular application (by sizing rather than application). Just depends if you want to be judged "critically" at a national-level car event. Or you might get one of the universal tanks for now and then research getting the original tank redone later on (this will buy you some time which you can devote to other aspects of getting the car ready to roll on the road).

Several options to consider . . .

NTX5467

[Matt Harwood]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Get a new galvanized steel tank and be confident it will be as good as factory-new.

My '55 Ford tank might be more available, but I paid $150 for it, brand-new. It was made in Canada. </div></div>

I'm guessing that there aren't any new repro tanks for a 1926 Buick. I suppose you could have one custom made, though. I don't know anything about Gas Tank Renu other than hearing about it as a very reasonably priced solution to this problem. A lifetime warranty suggests to me merely that they are confident in their product, not that you'll need them again someday for a gas tank "tune up." Whether they're around in 30 years is largely irrelevant. Will the DIY coatings last that long? Will there be any gas left then? Will the car survive in driveable condition that long? Heck, I'm not even sure I'll last that long .

Strange that a lifetime warranty would discourage you from using a product...

[Brian_Heil]

Had great success with both the do-it-yourself kit and with Gas Tank Renu.

Gas Tank Renu does not coat the outside of the tank or at least they did not on the two tanks I took them 10 years ago. Still holding up fine even with ethanol. A couple of beads of the sealer came through the holes but I filed them down and painted the exterior of the tank.

Agree also the lenth of chain is the way to go to clean the inside and then shake it like Elvis. May I suggest you put a coat hanger wire on the end of the chain so you don't have to fish the chain out of the tank through the inlet pipe when you lose your grip on it just as your wife walks up.

[Mark Shaw]

Years ago, I used sealer on my 29 Buick gas tank with good success. I used pea gravel & a full can of Drano drain cleaner with a gallon or two of hot water & did the Chubby Checker dance to get it clean.

My latest solution for my 15 Buick speedster tank (it was in bad shape) was to pull all the dents and send it to a tin plater in Portland OR.

He had it caustic dipped first. Then he used machine screws to secure the baffles that were just soldered into place before he dipped it in molten tin to coat it inside and out. He then removed the screws and re-soldered all the holes and joints with the same tin.

It cost $200, but it will never rust, & I will never have problems with new fuel. Heck, I could even make it a hybrid fuels speedster....

[jbbuick22]

What series car is it ?? I have a master 25-26 tank that is in good condition, with gauge and cap.

JB

22-6-55 Sport Touring

[Guest simplyconnected]

I agree that tank isn't easy to find (especially new). Your options apparently are limited but do-able.

"Lifetime warranty" doesn't discourage me from buying. I still have Power Craft tools that I use, and they carry a lifetime warranty from Montgomery Wards. When I bought my first creeper at a 'Thrifty Monday' sale at Sears, it too had a lifetime... When it broke, they only allowed ONE YEAR on the replacement. That wasn't the deal, at first! I just think it's silly to promote sales based on unrealistic claims.

Regarding the chain-boogie, I'm told it helps to screw bolts & nuts through the chain; anything to help 'scratch' the surface rust off.

The "tin plater" solution sounds very good (provided the screen inside can take the heat). At least you get your hot-dipped coating back. That's the best I've heard so far, to restore an old tank.

[Guest cardinal905]

I hate to send to a dipper, the paint is very good and I would have to repaint. Just got her and cant wait to drive again so want a pull/shake/seal job. Is the problem with 1/4'' nuts that you may not get them all back out? Seems like the chain may not hit all interior surfaces.

[Guest simplyconnected]

Use whatever you think will scratch rust off. I think hex nuts are pretty much round and light. Use square nuts with bolts through a heavy chain. I pulled five handfulls of rust out of mine, just by reaching through a window I cut. That's a lot of rust. If rust ramains, no matter what you seal it with, more rust will lift it off.

Strong acids (or caustics) will remove all the rust, all the way down to steel. The chain-boogie is just for surface rust (with many rinses between shakes). Then, the chemicals will have a chance to work.

You might not be able to see all the rusty areas, so employing experience is to your advantage

[R Walling]

I rinsed out my tank with detergent and water several times then placed many handfulls of rocks, sand gravel etc. into it and then used a presure washer to "sand blast " the inside.

It took forever to clean out the gravel. but when I was done, it was clean! Make sure the sender unit is out. It also makes a good clean out hole.

A good air hose and few cans of drygas later, it was ready for service.

[Guest simplyconnected]

I am very glad you had success!

Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol sucks up water, and it burns well... available at all drug stores and supermarkets. Gasohol (ethenol) does too.

Another idea: Temporarilly install two of those inline filters IN PARALLEL (sorry to yell) for a few tank fulls. If you put them in parallel, the total resistance is nothing, and they hold a lot of junk.

Do you have a screen inside the tank? (Mine does; I don't know about yours.) Check the condition of that.

I don't want you to get stuck in the boonies because of dirty fuel line issues. I replaced the lines in mine because of varnish and rust. Someone thought it would be a good idea to let it sit in a Missouri barn for 30 years, with a half tank of gas.

Glad your'e back on the road. - Dave Dare

[Guest cardinal905]

Yes I beleive there is a screen on the pickup. I assume the filters (in parallel) you speak of go, side by side with identical lengths of hose as gas would act like water and take the path of least resistance? If looking forward to a messy job like this means you are a car guy---I guess I have arrived !

[Guest simplyconnected]

Yes, yes, and you shure have. All restorers are car guys. Because nothing is available anymore, we have to fabricate things for ourselves, even if it is temporary. Restorers need a great imagination and a working knowledge of what's available. That's why we bump heads, here. After all, the original manufacturers are either out of business, or they don't support their classic cars.