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Hi ive got a 89 tc with the 4cyl and automatic in it. I was going down the highway and decided to wind it up and she just cut out and died. before it was cutting out intermitenly at wide open throttle runs.

I come to find looks like there is no spark. Ive replaced the coil rotor and even the sensor under the Cap still seems to be no spark. I checked the coil for voltage and there is no voltage at the supply wires. When the wires are disconnected from the coil there is about 10-11 volts.

Im at a complete loss on this it cranks over just find there is fuel pressure in the rail it just wont light off.

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I'm pretty sure the 4cyl. has an electronic sensor unit under the distributor plate (inside the distributor) that has 2 wires These 2 wires are the culprit. Change that unit the name of which I just can;t think of right now. (an old age problem). Good luck, Lou

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you are apparently losing it someplace. you said you replaced the HEP( disc with wire under the rotor), are you sure that is good? i had one eat the base of the HEP and refused to run then broke the second one i put it also because it bent the distrubutor inside. have you tried spraying starter fluid in the trottle body thats open and have someone crank it see if it fires up and runs at all>

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How old are the wires? When I raced Datsun Z cars we had problems with intermident coils. They would test fine, but die on the worst place on the track. Turn 8 at Road Atlanta uphill comes to mind. Coils are cheep.

http://www.fwdperformance.com/Store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=5&ProductID=695

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http://www.fwdperformance.com/Store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=5&ProductID=1056

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No, but if you have fuel pressure to the rail/injectors but no spark I am still suspicious of you Hall Effect Pick up (HEP) the sensor you replaced up the dist cap. They can be finicky. Was the small round metal plate that's plastic welded to the dist still intact? Rotor got put back right? I've done that once myself... The dist cap was in good shape? The carbon 'button' that transferes the spark energy is still in the cap? They fall out sometimes... The wires where the HEP plugs into the harness (two circular three way connectors, one grey one black)) can get loose, make sure the female side of the plugs are snug and making good contact, you may have to bend them shut a little with a pick or jewlers screwdriver. Pull the # spark plug and bring the piston to TDC, is the rotor pointing to the #1 wire (about 10:30-11:00 looking strait down on it) Did you replace the ignition coil yet?

Alan

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HEP seems to be all in intact. I found where the postive wire for the coil ends and I believe its at the ecm next to the battery? I put a multimeter on that and when the motor is cranking it makes about .30 volts intermitenly so its like it trying but not makeing the voltage it needs. Do you think the ecm is bad?

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HI,

I have been reading all of this "back & forth" and I still don't know If you have taken the car to a tech that has a good ECM "reader" and is experienced to understand what he reads.????? Lou

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Never seen the ECM do it, but I've seen the distributor gear wear out and do it (it's nylon), broken pick up coil wires do it (they can rub and cause intermittent cutting out under load before breaking entirely), bad coils do it, bad coil wires do it...

I would pick something else in the ignition system before the ECM. Like Lou and other said, maybe someone to scan your systems for you?

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Problem is I dont have any money to get a tech involved. I cant seem to find a break in the wire it goes into the main loom then comes out on the driver side next to the battery and ecm. Ive replaced the coil twice so I dont think thats it.

Do I just need to yank the distributor to check the gear?

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NO YOU CHECK THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR like I've already told you. I'm not gonna get all snippy with you but If you don't go the procedures I'm outlining, I'm out on helping with this. Do us a favor, as you check the things that are suggested, say so in your next posts so we can keep eliminating possible causes. It's the only way these suggestions do any good.

ECM's DO fail but rarely, it's way far down on my list of things to check... You might take the 8mm bolt out of the harness connector, check the overall condition (loose wires, corrosion, spread pins etc) but keep narrowing down the suspects.

Alan

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Hi again 'Monster'. Your old buddy Hemi here. I've been reading all the posts here and Alan is correct, you got to answer our suggestions with a logical answer for us to help.

First of all is to establish that the distributor rotor is turning when you crank the starter. If so, then the cam is turning too.

Your initial indication is that it quit at wide open throttle.

I'm sure you went into overboost.

Code 11 indicates that there is NO DISTRIBUTOR SIGNAL, so that MUST be addressed first.

You said, "I was a marine mechanic until about a year ago."

Then what happened? I've been an auto mechanic for 50 years, and a US Marine. So where does that get us?

Follow through on the #11 code. With no distributor signal, it 'ain't never' going to start.

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I don't know where the mechanic will get you, maybe able to help a lot of people and save em some money? As for the marines, or any other service to our country, I see it as you serve my country, you serve me and I owe you, so you tell me, what can I do for you?

Respectfully yours,

Wild Bill

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