72caddy

This looks like a really nice truck. Was this a AACA member’s???? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1949334345264855/

Graham man nailed it. Any mid to late 60’s major car brand vehicle would work. The aftermarket support, part availability, good at today’s road speeds, and some creature comforts like AC.

Mr. Bloom you are not alone. My dad was a car guy but to poor to do anything about it. So when I had the chance I bought my first project car because he installed that love of cars in me. Then later in life I bought my 1919 Dodge because he loved the really old iron. He loved to go for drives in that car. It would bring up old memories that even he thought he forgot. It really was something. Since his passing I may have driven the car twice. I start it every two months but other than that it remains for the memories. So, in a way. the joy it brought my dad brings me joy. Sorry for your loss.

In 2007, I found this in a small town close to me and posted pictures. Someone contacted me and i believe this was rescued shortly there-after...maybe just for parts but it was a neat find.

My father would always stop and take photos of any car on a pole on family vacations. There is still one I know of that has a 63/64 riviera. VW bugs were always popular choices in the south…probably due to weight.

Not sure what you are asking for. Are you asking why the build-up on the points?

Interesting that is has ‘Boyco’ and ‘Boyle’ on the same sticker. Did ‘Boyco’ become a default name for running board gas cans (like Xerox for a paper copy)?

Are you positive these are Boyco? I did a google search and this site that has a set similar to yours listed as ‘other’. Most Boyco cans have the spout at the center. http://hudsonterraplane.com/SuperSix/RunningBoardCans/runningboard.htm

My uncle was OSS in WWII. Air dropped into China. If 'the bomb' didn't work, plan B was ready. Had two ropes on each shoulder (tank, paratrooper, marksman, artillery). We were never allowed to ask or mention the war in his presence (my father's instructions, not him). He was a super nice guy. Miss him.0 The photo is from a best friend on a visit. Different view than you see most of the time.

Cadillac called it the ‘track master’ and the brake pedal has this in the chrome pad surround. Years ago I bought this system to add to my 72 Eldo but never did…

So finally got spark to the plugs. I was getting sporadic spark and then found that my coil tower to distributor wire had a continuity issue. So replaced that and finally got the timing in-line. Didn’t fire it up. I want to check the other wires, clean and gap the plugs, etc. But this should be over if I finally have spark.

Properly wired the spark plug wires to the firing order (as RAH noticed it was wrong) and finally had another person to help see if I was getting spark at the plugs. I did reset the distributor rotor to the specs I found in an old 1986 Dodge newsletter. TDC plus about 5 degrees (valve on number 4 just closing). On the distributor shaft the rotor is directly under the #1 cylinder contact and the points are just about to open. This should give spark just after TDC. Power thru the new resistor and coil is consistent. Front the coil tower to the distributor center port is it also consistent. But no spark to the plugs. Turning the car over with and watching the points there is no spark on opening. I also get no voltage measurement when Measuring from the spark plug wire hole (wire removed) at the cap. I swapped the rotor out just in case and still no luck. Cap bottom is clean. Cap rotor center button and plug contact button are black. Continuity of the rotor is good. Thoughts?

@RAH you are absolutely correct. I am one pin off. I always liked that other cap where it was numbered on the cap!

I tried to keep all that straight in all the various changes but may have messed it up. Appreciate you taking the time to review and offer guidance.

Thanks for the feedback but it will be another 3 weeks before an update. Wife was rear-ended in her car late last week. Just cosmetic damage but she is sore. Of course the guy took off after checking on them. She got the tag but it did not match the truck it was on (of course). Then this weekend she visits her parents for a big birthday and drives home with the check engine light on for 1 hour 😩. So I need to focus on insurance and what-ever the code her car is throwing. I am sure it is simple but being a Mercedes, they make the simple complicated.

Decided to check TDC a little closer. Seems it is a little off. I will see if I can get the rotor position and TDC to line up a little better. right now it seems several degrees to early for when the piston comes to the top. Decided this was a bad idea since it was running fine before. Rotor is back at original position. Basically the rotor points at the notch in the distributor body where the cap notch fits

Update: Installed new resister before the new coil. Modified my existing distributor by removing the very long clips for the original screw on spark plug connectors as I could never find a replacement for the cracked one. Appreciate all the help from various members for looking. Installed shorter clips from a part s distributor of the same make and model. In my spare part boxes I found what I think is the correct cap with the normal slip on connections. Measurements were spot on, had the same cap locator on the lip as the other and the inside depth for the rotor was extremely close (maybe 1/16” taller). Installed everything but still no spark. I am getting 12.5v at all the right places at the right times. Center tower to distributor cap is also 12.5v. Checked that no.1 cylinder and rotor are in alignment (see photo). This should have not changed but I wanted to eliminate it. Points are opening and closing. When I manually open and close the points I get a good spark. I think I am back at checking condensers again 😩 Open to other suggestions…thanks in advance as always.

Back in the 90’s the company I worked for (CAD/CAM software) was purchased by a competitor. Bentley/RR was a current customer and we had helped do some of the first CAD to Fabrication panels for the new R-type. As a marketing thing, we received a Bentley motor/trans on a custom stand for trade shows. Once the company purchase went through the purchasing company wanted the display gone. It was put in the lobby in a much smaller configuration, small signs, etc. I approached the outgoing President and we worked out a deal. Well, it has sat in a corner of my small garage for 25 years and I think I would not miss it. Exterior is compete and (did) look brand new. Covered in dust now. Garrett turbo in place. Tranny is an empty th350 that the end coupling drilled and set screwed. Block has crank and heads but no pistons. Crank looks like a “second” and not pristine but I could be wrong. If someone has interest in it I would sell. Not really sure of what these go for, but I do know the parts, individually could sell over time for some good money but really don’t want to spend the time to go that route. Open to offers, just PM me. Pictures will be posted later. My new computer (with the photos) does not have my account preloaded. These will be dated but can take newer photos if someone is serious.

That is a great deal. I had to get some 80-90’ pines removed. Clear land underneath, a crew that came and went at random, and had to pay a whole lo more! Yard still has not recovered. One pine literally left a trough in the ground when it hit.

Very nice. Really like the tractors in the background

VW Thing turn signals.

@nearchoclatetown Ok. Think I’m straight now. I’ll switch the clips from 1 10004 to the other 10004 and see where it takes me.

@Mark Gregush Thanks for pointing this out. The one I purchased has stamped on the case ‘Use with External Resistor’. I’ll fix the bad wire and put my resistor/regulator back in-line. Is there any specific Chrysler year or model I should ask for? Reason I ask is the parts stores around here have to have a Make, model and year to look for anything. Still hunting for some Bakelite caps and a Type 10000 distributor. In looking through my spares I have a ‘push’ style cap that exactly matches the screw on cap in almost every way….the only difference are the side gussets where the spring clamps hold the cap to the body. The push on cap ledges are much shorter that the screw on cap. In yet another twist one of my spare Type 10004 distributor bodies has the right size clips and the cap fits perfectly, notch and all. So worse case I move those spring clips over to the distributor on the car and give that a go. Can provide images if that helps anyone. Strange that two Type 10004 distributors have significantly different spring clips. All look original and properly swaged on the ends. Can provide images if that helps others.

Did not realize that. I have a couple of other distributors…so I will check their numbers. Sounds Ike a swap would be prudent for simplifying part sourcing in the future. UPDATE: Just checked spares. Both 10004 (just the bases).

No spare caps. I have a note into Myers to see if they have one day (or two)