72caddy

Today’s first update: Tested a couple of condensers and found one that had eliminated the spark at the points (or at least it was not a big spark). Changed back to the old plugs that I knew worked. Primed the fuel system and tried to start. It was trying but backfiring. Very loud in a small garage 🙄. So back to the condenser as I have learned that bad condensers sometimes cause misfire. This time I had the coil lead to the distributor hooked up. As I was using a small screw driver to cycle the points - to test a 3rd condenser, suddenly I saw and heard a high voltage flash at top of the cap (red circle) between the coil lead and #1, so I did it a few more times and it would randomly do this between #1 and #2 (Yellow line in image). Cap looks fine. Turns out the Bakelite cap is split at the bottom for the coil lead. Need to see if I have a spare…

Got another coil. This one is the traditional canister type. Hooked it up, got consistent readings when points are open and closed at the posts and the feed to the distributor. Checked with a plug out but wired and I am now getting spark. It only backfires at the moment. @Bloo I will check the readings with the new coil and do as you suggest. I did not check for spark when opening the points with the new coil but will do so. I misunderstood the spark at the points. I thought that was good, but seems it is bad and that the condenser is there to eliminate the spark? Stopping work on cars for the day. Another update tomorrow morning. Appreciate the patience and advice.

I think I am going crazy. So pulled the battery tender off and hooked up the battery cables to test. Noticed the wire to the voltage regulator had rubbed/burned through the wire insulation so I decided to bypass that. So power from the ignition straight to the inline fuse and then the coil positive. Turned the key on. I get 12.4v on the coil positive post. Nothing on the coil negative post(points closed). Opened the points (no spark btw) and get 12.4v on the coil negative post but Ov on the coil to distributor post (?). You can see above that I was getting a reading there earlier when the points were open. I did disconnect the negative wire to the distributor as @Bloo recommended and the coil negative post does come up to 12.4 so I guess the coil is still good. Since I didn’t see any spark when I opened the points. I tried opening them a few more times. Sometimes spark but most times not. I did lightly file the points - they look good and are not worn at an angle or anything (but no opposed to changing them). When I cycle the points like it would with the car running I can hear the new coil ‘clicking’ - just like what I would hear if there was spark at the points - but there is still no spark at the points. At the start of this I replaced the condenser and may pull that one and test it (again) but open to other ideas. UPDATE: Replaced condenser again as the negative wire would spark nicely when disconnected from the distributor. Clean points a little more and now getting consistent spark when manually opening the points. However, still do not get any voltag reading from the coil to distributor wire post with points open. Suspect coil. Need to go back to the store and get another one I guess.

The delay is not intentional. The delay is my day (& these days my night) job. Working from home,at least for me, has turned into ‘work all the time’. Hope to get to it this afternoon.

You’re right! 😆 I was about to seal it back up!

UPDATE: New coil in and installed - had to look up the post designation since this used ‘15’ and’1’ instead of ‘+’ and ‘-‘. It’s a DIN thing. Wired the ignition power to positive and the negative to the distributor (my car is negative ground 12v). I get 12.4v at the voltage regulator (firewall thing) and then 12.4v at the positive terminal on the new coil. I also get 12.4v on the negative terminal simultaneously. At the post I get 3.4v with points closed and 12.4v with points open. I’ll try to fire it up late tonight after my late conference calls..tomorrow at the latest…have had some really long work days this week…need to take my time so I don’t mess anything up.

Decided to go the route of @Mark Gregush with the square shaped coil. Had to order it, so not update for a few days

With points open I do get the same volt reading on the ‘other’ coil post when the points are closed - from the post wired to the volt regulator. Disconnecting the wire from the coil to the distributor and testing results in no voltage what-so-ever. Tested with points open and closed just to be sure. So I suspect the coil and will go pick up a 12v coil this morning and retire to see what happens.

when I was little suddenly a ‘Kool’ sailboat showed up at our house. Turns out my grandmother (who smoked - I didn’t have clue) saved enough stamps to pay for the boat. It was styrofoam but had wooden transom, seats, center board, paddles, etc. The kicker was that the sail was green and white and said ‘Kool” in giant letters. Logged my nautical laps around the local ponds and lakes with that boat. Just recently threw out the sail (after 40+ years)

Thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge. It is appreciated. I have lot to go over in the next few days. I will be sure to post and successes or failures so to help someone else in the future (forum search).

Trini, I replaced the condenser first thinking that was the most likely culprit. I was going to go get a coil at the store to try exactly what you suggest - the reason for my original question - how o test these original coils.

Thanks for all the advice & replies. I’ll try to answer the various questions: No, this car is negative ground - again, it came to me that way and has never complained in 15 years or so I will definitely check the coil wires, pretty sure they have not been touched in ages but I will try anything I will do the coil test with the wire off the coil as well Have not filed the points - but that is a good suggestion. Don’t think I have ever done that on this car. Have tried the spark pull test, but by myself it is difficult and my eyes are what they used to be. I’ll try again at night. Fuel is not the issue. This car has always ‘popped’ right off on starter fluid for a few cycles - understand for prolonged running I need to turn the fuel on - right now I just dont seem to be getting spark - or enough spark - to the plugs to fire off what vapor is in there. Compression is OK. I do have one cylinder lower than the others but it has run fine in the past. Wouldn’t the other cylinders fire if there was one ‘out of range’.

Yes, there is spark when I open the points. Type 10004.

A voltage reducer. It was there when I bought the car and just left it in place. It ran fine with that for years.

Heat about to break, so was out getting the touring prepped. I have a no-start issue and seeking advice. Image numbers match the details below: 1. Battery fairly new - measures 12.8V with the multimeter - with trickle charger on and off charger. In line fuse looks fine. 2. Voltage at the entry to the regulator is 12.6 or so - so it is getting power when the switch is on 3. Voltage at the exit point is only 10.4 4. Voltage at the coil entry point is also 10.4 5. Voltage at other side of the coil is 0 - not sure how I test this coil - advice? Replaced the condenser. Points look OK. Contacts in distributor cap clean. Button in place and looks OK (a little carbon on top but not much). Cap and spark plug lines are in the proper place & order. Spark plugs replaced with new ones. Starter generator spins nicely. Engine is cycling as it should - or as it always has. Sprayed starter fluid in carb to block access…not even one little spark. Thanks in advance…

I have an old simple cotton cover for my 19 ‘Dodge. Searched for years for something similar and have not found anything like it. Tag is completely lost all ink. Wish I could find another...

Looks like the panel that covers the top gap from the core support to the top of the radiator. Can’t help with age / model.

Thanks. It looks like one of my insulator had perished. I have procured another and will hopefully be on the road soon.

Went to fire her up and everything was spinning but no spark. I have this happen before and a little twist behind the dash of the amp gauge did the trick. This time a ‘pop’ , a whiff of ozone, and the needle when hard left. Question is: Are these rebuildable? Seems like a sealed unit.

Also keep in mind that most people lease today. The negotiate a payment number not a purchase number. Some car loans go for 7-8 years now. No one keep s are car for more than 3 years it seems. When used cars were in demand some dealerships were calling the people with leases offering to let them out early in exchange for a new car with the same payment just so they could make money on the used car.

@AntiqueTags Sorry, I dont know what happened after this was posted for sale.

Nice car!

This one looks like it has the original interior... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2796538243915130/

Pretty rough and $15K https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/261875042029748/

Location would help people decide if the price and cost of shipping (vs local) is in their budget.