steelman

I like the vents from the third one placed in the location of the second picture. Are those from the Raineer? I have been looking at doing something like that myself. PS, Brian, I thought I was burned out on Starwires, but I really like these on your car, too.

A fellow named Brian (bwpnewt) from Broken Arrow, OK that frequents this board may be interested in a trade. He has 4 15x7 Truspokes and wants a pair of 8s. He should check in soon. You need to see first that these are in fact a 5 on 5 pattern. If this works out, you could both have a set of 7s and 8s for your 64s.

Had the Igniter I in mine for a year and a half. No issues at all for me. Don't know if it improved my milage or not, because I didn't have the car back on the road before I made the change. I will do this mod to every early car I own.

^^ What he said! ^^

Packing is a big concern, especially when shipping sheet metal. Crating materials will far out weigh the part when done correctly. UPS will not ship oversize pieces. They make enough money with small items, don't need yor big ones. FedEx will ship these as freight, but it gets expensive. Might be able to ship the door skins by Greyhound bus, but the hood is too big for them to handle. Jim Cannon recommends uship.com. I don't know anything about them, but respect Jim's opinion. Whoever you contact about shipping the first question they always ask is "What does it weigh?". Until you get them an accurate weight and size, they will not tell you for sure that they can ship the parts to you. I haven't helped much, but it is really hard for an individual to ship big items like these.

Eliminating the STV is very straight forward and +/- $120. Basically just a blockoff plate in the top of the STV that causes the compressor to cycle like a newer car instead of run continuously as designed. Easy install, but this valve is in the back of the motor, so access is limited. The freon must be evacuated from the system to do this conversion. I actually had to remove my housing completely and remachine the top flat because I couldn't get it to reseal. Could have been just a bad housing, or maybe the reason my AC didn't work when I bought the car. But I don't think this is causing your problem either. Call Old Air as Ed suggested.

I don't know anything more about this. It was a picture of a Riviera for sale not long ago on ebay. Like most of the responders to this post, my AM Wonderbar doesn't work. I have been thinking of upgrading, but don't want to cut holes in the doors for speakers. Even I have scruples. This looked like an interesting solution, so I copied the picture. Is it a big deal to loose the vents in a car with AC?

I have been considering the same thing for the exact reasons you stated above. Not sure if I want to go with door speakers or kick panel speakers. The door speaker enclosure pictured below was discussed here a while ago. That link is below, also. I think this is the right link. http://forums.aaca.org/f177/suggestions-tunes-my-64-a-225356.html

Best place for pictures of just about anything is ebay. It is like one giant menu. And remember, just because we are on a diet doesn't mean we can't look at the menu. I have seen several bucket seat 66 Rivieras for sale here in the past. Most if not all will show an interior shot to compare your seats to theirs to see how close they are. But as I write this, there are no bucket seat 66-67 Rivieras on ebay. However, there is a guy starting to part a 66 Riviera GS. Best I recall, it was a bucket seat car from pics he had of the whole car for sale earlier. Link is below, and has a phone number in the ad. Call and ask if he has buckets and have him send you pictures if he does. Maybe not the direct help you were looking for, but this gets you started. Good luck. Buick : Riviera | eBay

If only...

Kind of ironic that we are having all these issues with OPGI and they had an add for their Riviera catalog on Hotrod TV this morning.

A friend had a couple of 17" wheels repaired this way for his Talon in Oklahoma City. Questions they will ask are; 1. Is a piece broken completely off or just cracked? 2. If broken completely off, do you have both pieces? 3. Is it just broken off on the lip or did it get into the fins? He used Wheel Connections, 530 N. Meridian Ave, Oklahoma City, OK. Phone is 405-947-2274. Now that I think about it, these are the same people that did some machining on my 17" wheels to clear the Riviera hubs. Hope this helps, but my friend and I have both had good experiences with these folks.

Have to come through before 6:00. That is when we roll the sidewalks up in Oklahoma.

The TA Performance water pumps have been recast to use a bearing in front rather than the factory bronze bushing for less resistance and a longer life. As originality wasn't my primary concern, I went with this one. You can tell the difference by looking if you know what to look for. In a AACA setting, the judges would find this, but chances are not at a local show. Drove mine 450 miles with the air on in OK and TX without an issue.

I find that a lot. You are right, every part is available for a 55 Chevy. Not sure the bolts you are looking for, but the best site for bolts is McMaster-Carr. Don't know if you looked there or not, but they are not automotive related, so most people don't know about them. McMaster-Carr

Interesting that new bolts are not available as a part of a body mount kit from somebody. I remember when I did my 55 Chevy, in the Classic Chevy Int. catalog, in the same group as new body mounts was an item for new body mount bolts. Just pick sedan, hardtop, wagon or convertible. All the new bolts you needed to do the job could be ordered at the same time you ordered the rubbers.

Yes, but the shipping was FREE!!!

Check your speaker, assuming you are still running the stock 63 single speaker. As the material in the speaker deteriorates with age, this could be the problem. Low volume OK and an echo increasing proportionally when the volume is increased is most likely a speaker issue, not a radio issue.

I have just almost quit looking at parts on greedbay. Just filtering for 63-65 Riviera brings up 24+ pages of crap, 99% of Riviera owners wouldn't want in the first place. Bright yellow seat covers, red 5 point safety harnesses, and turbo parts for Jeeps. Maybe 10-12 items worth having out of 1200+. Waste of my time anymore.

Bought my condenser off of ebay from CA. Check the archives for condenser. TA performance has a replacement water pump for the nailhead with a bearing in the front, rather than the brass bushing. When my pump went out, I put one of these on it. My AC guy said the muffler was unnecessary, so we eliminated it in my system. He has built AC systems for a lot of years, so I trusted his judgment. I can't tell the difference. And if your pipes are loud enough, you can't tell the difference anyway.

Dryers are available new. Probabely cost more to recon one, even if you could. Most condensers are pretty beat up from sitting in front of the radiator and catching rocks and bugs. These are also available new. Compressors can also be found new, but you have to look hard. Double pulley makes these even harder to find new than a regular A6, but I was able to find one for mine two years ago.

I have looked at the BMW Black Sapphire. Not quite enough metallic in it for my tastes. I agree that anything near black is a PITA, period, but I love the way it sets off the lines of the car. Mazda has a color called Stormy Blue that has better metallic, but isn't as dark as I would like. Maserati also has a blue that is close. I'll find it eventually.

Anybody know what color that car was? Was that blue a factory color? It looked black in the shadows and was a deep blue in the lights. Just what I have been looking for to put on my 63. Any help is appreciated.

Got this one. New PM sent.

Lower left corner inside the glove box. Mount is about two inches square and the chrome knob is about 1" round. Hard to miss when you open the glove box if you have this option. And it is not a push button, it is a "Pull" knob.