KDirk

I have a couple in storage with brackets. Neither is in perfect condition but are usable. I'll get them out in the next day or two and see if they are decent enough to sell.

^^^Yeah, but that only works once the headlamp motors have been rebuilt.

I suspect it is a matter of age and fatigue of the casting from so many mechanical cycles rounding out around the knurlings on the shaft. I suppose this will be yet a other problem we need to deal with as these cars advance in age. Someone who has machining skills and gear might consider offering casting/shaft upgrades as you've engineered here on an exchange basis. Might be a few dollars to be made, as many will not have the skills or tools to roll their own.

Very nice indeed. Surprised the CTS wheels fit, what year are they from? I was of the understanding that the CTS had a different bolt pattern, but that may be true of more recent models.. Anyway, I like the look.

Ok, looking right now at both the 88 and 89 FSM final edition, page 1B1-14 full page diagram, figure 17, both matches the page you posted from your 89 final edition. I do see that either the legend was type set again or the frame around the legend was enlarged slightly for 89 as in comparing the two, there is more margin at the bottom edge of the page on the 88 version than 89. Otherwise, everything is identical including the illustration ID number H60400-1B-EK. Note that last bit, EK, denotes the platforms to which the illustration was applicable. Bohh E and K platofrms in this case. The Cadillac Seville was built on the K platform, FWIW, and the Deville moved to the K platform in 94. I do have a 90 manual (final) but is mislaid preseneltly. Will try to turn it up and compare to 88 and 89. I'd say 2seater must have posted from a 90 manual, or from one of the preliminary editions given the different diagram. We will get this cleared up one way or another. The 91 FSM has a fully revised diagram that shows the updated component locations and is on a different page, has a different figure number and illustration ID number. Edit: found The 90 FSM. Diagram on page 1B1-5 matches what 2Seater posted. That said, 1B1-5 is a right hand page, and his photo looks like it is on the left. Illustration ID number is L63000-1B1-E-R1.

Dave's instructions get you access to the BCM, shown in the picture 89RDG posted above. The ECM is mounted vertically under the dash, down and rightward of the glove box and has its connections facing downward towards the floor pan. It is held in by a torx head screw through a plastic bracket that is bolted to the corner of the ECM housing. It is difficult to get out, and will require removal of the hush panel under the dash, the vacuum manifold and harness from the HVAC programmer module, disconnect the three harness plugs and then it has to be pulled down and out. The floor carpeting where it wraps up the rocker forward of the door opening tends to get in the way. If swapping the BCM, make absolutely sure you swap the EEPROM under the service cover as this stores the vehicles VIN, option programming and odometer. This is socketed in a plastic chip carrier with thumb tabs for east removal. Also need to swap the PROM that calibrates the module to the application (year, make and model) as it isn't usually supplied with the replacement module.

Keep in mind too that some illustrations were reused from similar car models. The E platform in which the Reatta and Riviera was built also encompassed the Eldorado and Toronado/Trofeo. Closely related was the C platform that the 85-93 Cadillac Deville was built on. Having owned a 91 and a 95 Deville, and seeing the similarities both in the cars mechanical and suspension systems to the Reatta (less so in the electrical and body of course) as well as the factory manuals, I can tell you that GM recycled some illustrations from the other E and C platform cars. Remember too that the Reatta was largely derived from the Riviera that debuted in 1986, and save for the change from the older 3.8l engine to the first iteration called 3800 in 1988, most of the under hood setup was pretty close to the 86/87. Point being that some of these illustrations were almost certainly 86/87 versions, and could have been retouched for expected changes. However, these may not reflect final production design depending on what point in development they were drafted. Worth noting also that I'm fairly certain these illustrations were all hand drafted. While CAD was definitely available (and used by GM) in the mid 80's, this was still a transitional period where conventional drafting was heavily used. All in all, I think they did a passable job. There are always inconsistencies in a service manual of this scope, and running changes are almost never added except by addendum (if even that). 30 years on, nearly nobody has a complete volume of the updates and bulletins that were issued. All this gets back the point that a good seat of the pants troubleshooter will always be needed. Either you have that skill or you don't. I think it can be learned, but there is a certain innate skill needed to develop and exploit that ability fully. Some people just can't think that way from my observations.

FWIW, the 91 system is laid out differently with the accumulator mounted in front of the engine up near the coolant resovoir. Line set is different as a result, but functionally is identical.

An error in the FSM? I'm shocked, absolutely shocked, I tell you. I've noted a number of mess ups in there. For what they were, and th relative complexity of these manuals, I can cut some slack. But, accuracy - especially in some illustrations - could have been better.

I've not tackled the temp sensor issues yet as I've not had a need to. That said, the thermistor doesn't appear to be anything special. Provided a proper resistance range can be determined (probably need a NOS part to accurately test min and max resistance at temperature extremes) I can't imagine a new bare thermistor couldn't be sourced and attached to the existing sensor body, thereby rebuilding the sensor. Anyone know if there is a published spec - perhaps in the FSM - on what the min/max resistance was on this part? That would make sourcing a new thermistor element for this purpose a lot easier. Or, if someone has a currently perfectly operating system on their car, pull resistance readings from it at full cold and with engine at ambient temp (after car has not run in several hours). My 88s both work but I think both are slightly off spec, and thus probably not a good base reference point for this purpose. KD

Glass is fused to the top at manufacture and not really possible to reattach (in any permanent way) the glass to the fabric. As well, the vinyl tops shrink with age making it even harder to try and put the window back on with some sort of adhesive. A new top is really the only recommendation I can make. I did my own (first - and so far only - top I ever did) and it turned out nice. But, it requires several special tools, meticulous attention to detail and a lot of patience. Not a project for a neophyte, I'd say. Figure about $800-900 for the top and another several hundred in labor to install by a shop. KD

Regarding the third brake light in coupes (not convertibles) the stock bulb is an 1141 (two of these). This is a smaller, lower output version of an 1156, to lessen the heat on the plastic lens and housing. Many LED bulbs will be sold as "1141/1156" as they fit both applications, and since the LED bulbs run cooler, using one labeled 1156 is ok. Do not use incandescent 1156 bulbs in the third brake light in any circumstance , as they run too hot. Also, with LED slide in wedge base lamps like type 194, you will need to observe polarity as you are on a DC circuit. If an LED lamp won't light, flip it 180° in the socket and that will usually solve the problem.

^ That last sentence being a more eloquent expression of my own frustration with having noted the same. Some people (an ever decreasing number it seems) do a job well and take pride in having done so. Some do just enough to get the paycheck. And some are warm bodies occupying a chair and because of a lack of effective oversight - and concern on their own part - crank out useless garbage and still manage to get paid. This latter category is killing us as a country and yet they seem to be the dominant contingent now. Anyway, I know I'd buy a couple if a verifiably correct part can be produced out of this snafu. So, I'm waiting to see the final outcome of all this.

Ok, how much would you want to make a second one (material and labor to fabricate)? And that's a serious question. This looks very good, and while not beyond my own fabrication skills, is beyond the time I have available to do so for the foreseeable future. If you would be willing to fab one up, PM me and we can discuss further.

I appreciate your efforts on this. When (if?) it is satisfactorily resolved, please post the part number as I'd be interested in getting one (or more), assuming they can get it right. On that note, I marvel at the sheer incompetence exhibited in this episode. Shipping screw ups, multiple mismade assemblies, I do wonder how so many errors can be made on one job. And this is not even anything complicated. Clearly we've reached the stage of human endeavor where nobody gives a damn at all. I'm getting angry just reading it, and by now would be planning unspeakable things if this were my project.

No fuse that would only kill the digital portions of the display. The high voltage for the VFDs' is derived from the 12VDC common feed to the cluster, as the high voltage supply is internal to the IPC. The same 12V is used to power the various telltale bulbs (which are 12V #160 wedge base lamps IIRC) when they are called for (these are individually controlled by transistor switching under logic control within the IPC).

Then you, sir, have a cluster rebuild in your future. Please post if United repairs the 88/89 cluster. I know they do 90/91 but not sure if they will do the early one. If they do, I'll probably send them one or two I have sitting that I have not been able to resurrect.

Ok, have looked over a dash harness I had in my inventory and I do not find any intermediate connector in line with either of the two harness sections that terminate at the IPC (the two red/black shell connectors). There are a number of plastic mounting flags taped into the harness along its length for screwing to hold points on the back side of the Dash panel, but there is no other connector visible. Most of it is in loom and taped over, but even then a pull-apart termination would be visible as a bulge. Check for power and grounds at the IPC connectors. If all voltages and ground are present but the entire cluster is blacked out then the cluster, by process of elimination, is smoked. I'd be a bit surprised that it would go like that though. The 88/89 cluster tends to either loose the digital displays (via failure of the internal VFD high voltage supply) or the incandescent telltales stop working, but it is unusual for both symptoms to occur concurrently. A full failure of all IPC functions is more likely a fuse or wiring fault killing all power to the cluster.

I don't think there is any intermediate connection between the main dash bulkhead connector (the big black rectangular job) and the IPC connectors, but I have a full dash harness I'll look at tonight and post back my findings.

R codes are SIR (air bag system) malfunctions. Not at home presently so don't have the book to look and post what those codes mean. Obviously only applicable to 1990/91 models, and not shown on the chart posted above which is 88/89 codes (most are identical to 90 though). KD

Have you ruled out the ignition control module? Suddenly dying at hot engine temp is a classic failure symptom of the Magnavox ICM used on the 88-90 models, less frequently seen on the Delco setup used in 1991. Sounds like a thermal problem certainly (induced by heat of engine at full operating temp). The ICM and crankshaft position sensor are the two likely suspects where a sudden hot shutdown is in play. The ICM frequently exhibits the leakage of a light green sticky slime - apparently the heat dissapation compound placed inside the module at manufacture - when it starts failing in this manner.

Barney, the lens and circuit board was certainly a re-purposed Corvette part, but is the cast housing also from the 'vette, or was that a Reatta only part? I ask because in one photo, an ASC part sticker is clearly visible, and as we know, they developed most of the top and body parts unique to the Reatta roadster. I don't think I've ever seen a definitive answer to this, but I was of the belief that the housing was not borrowed from the Corvette parts bun for some reason. Just curious, as the units pictured all appear to be 90/91 Reatta colors to me. KD

Ok, a quick update on motor mounts. I purchased a GM OEM front mount that fits (not cheap) and in the meantime ordered another aftermarket front mount #2943, this one by Uni-select under the Auto Xtra brand. This one fits as intended, leaving me to wonder if the Anchor part I received previously was mis-packaged. Anchor' s website has a 3D photo that shows the mount I needed as 2943, and is identical to the Uni-select provided one I got today. So, who knows what the screw up was and maybe inwas premature in my concern that 88 owners will have a problem finding the correct front mount. I will say the aftermarket front mount, while visually and dimensionally identical to the OEM part, is not as substantial as it clearly doesn't weigh as much. It is hydraulic, not solid, as I can hear "slosh" when shaking it. I will probably install this one and save the GM part for the next go around. I plan on getting some pictures and posting a separate thread on motor mounts for an 88, as there seems to be some confusion still on which parts are correct for the 1988 models.

If you look at the back side of the courtesy lamp housing (red/white lamp on door panel) there is a small plastic port that the fiber optic cable plugs into. This in turn illuminates the halo on the outside lock cylinder. Note that on early 88's there is a separately mounted inline lamp holder with a 194 bulb clipped to the lock/interior handle linkage housing that provides the light source for the lock cylinder halo. This was omitted later for some 88 and all 89-90 cars and the courtesy lamp housing was used as the light source instead. KD

David, thanks for your efforts compiling and typing the list. I suspect I may roll my own given the cumulative cost and effort involved in compiling the full monty, but your list is helpful. KD